I have never heard of this. Does it help truck run cooler? Better?
What is that filter for in first place?

 

I did not see any difference in coolant temp or oil pressure. I picked my wife up after I was done and as soon as she got in she asked what I did now, cause it sounded healthier?... I didn't notice anything though.

Anywho, My guess the conversation went like this...

Well, to meet new EPA standards we can't let the crankcase vent to the open air anymore. OK, lets run it back into the intake. OK, but wait, won't the oil vapors stick to the turbo, intercooler and piping and stuff. Yep, that's why we have to stick a filter on there. OK, but then won't the filter eventually get clogged full of oil. Yep, and then we get to sell another filter. Score, it is a win win.

 

So CTD, thinking about doing this mod and thanks for the info. Now that you've had it done a while, any problems?

 

In my opinion the filter is a poor design and looked as if it was just an after thought thrown together to fit in the space provided. Plus the way it started to disintegrate when I began to mess with it was disturbing... I am paranoid big time about stuff goin in my engine. I'm the guy that puts a plastic bag and rubber band over his turbo every time he takes the intake off. All I can say is I'm glad to have that thing off the top of my engine.

 

Thank you. Just did mine today and it was right full of oil. But i have a question about why there is a big vent hole and a small one that the filter originally fit into? And why did the big vent have foam covering it and the little one never? Is that anything to be worried about when putting this back together?

 

There should actually be 3 vent holes going down. The big one is were the air will come out, the other two are where the oil goes in. The two that the oil drains into are connected to tubing that runs down to the block, and they have check valves in them.

The big hole had some type of what appeared to be like steel wool covering it. My guess is seperate the bulk of the oil from the air before it reached the paper filter.

It is fine with out it though.

Here is a picture:

 

Thanks. I got that center piece apart without wrecking it too badly (took forever) so i put it back in just empty. Hopefully it'll be ok. Just took it for a drive a few miles and seems fine, i think!

 

Just make sure it is clean... You don't want anything falling down into the top end.

 

Could this CCV thing be the cause of the oil that finds its way all the way to the bottom of the bellhousing... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2010-general-discussion/475097-leak-bellhousing.html

 

I don't think the way it is set up stock that oil would leak from the filter or from under the filter cover assembly. Now if somebody told me they just removed the filter completely and didn't modify it like I showed above, then maybe I would question that, but probably not.

My first guess (having not read that thread) would have been a rear main.

My first guess (now having read that thread) would be excess assembly lube, like others stated.

I'm no mechanic though.

 

Can a 5.9 cover with the breather nipple on the Left side be used on the 6.7's? Will all the electrical connections hook up?:confused013:

 

From what I've read it won't work at all, wrong size. There are companies that make aftermarket billet valve covers for the 6.7 though.

 

looking for the billet valve cover



I have an oil bypass system on my 6.7 and the billet oil cap it uses has stated to break apart the threads in the oil fill spout of the factory valve cover. I am getting ready to do the ccv filter delete and noticed your mention of the aftermarket billet valve covers this would cure my problem of the factory threads breaking off but all I have been able to find is companies making the billet "vanity cover" that goes over the ccv filter. Do you have the names of any companies making the billet valve covers for the 6.7?

 

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So my question is this: what do you do with the external vent when it comes time to smog the truck? Can this be undone or rerouted back into the intake? Im sure this would result in a visual fail by the emissions testers here in CA.

 

So my question is this: what do you do with the external vent when it comes time to smog the truck? Can this be undone or rerouted back into the intake? Im sure this would result in a visual fail by the emissions testers here in CA.

You move to a real state, haha J/K

I wouldn't hook it back to the intake with the filter removed. Not sure about CA, but here in CO they would never notice it at the inspection.

 

It's possible that it's all in my head, but damn my truck is running better than ever after doing this mod. I was really upset when I pulled the hose off from the intake and saw that oil residue. That was all the incentive that I needed to go buy the few parts needed. Great mod and what seems to be improved operation. I love this forum.

 

It's possible that it's all in my head, but damn my truck is running better than ever after doing this mod.

I think it is just in your head, but I have the same feeling about my truck, apparently even my wife did too, haha.

 

Ok, it's not in my head anymore. I had to drive to LAX this morning and as I was cruising along on the interstate I decided to dial my minimax down to no power because my truck kept accelerating too quickly and too easily, the problem was that I was already on the no power setting. My truck really is running better than ever. When I pulled the hoses off, I saw oil around the fittings and in the hose so I'm sure I was getting some bad stuff on my turbo and in my intake. Well I'm not going to have to worry about that anymore. This is a great mod and I'm sticking to it.

 

Gunner- did you buy the GDP kit or do it your self with parts from the store. If so where did you find the 3/4 plug.

 

It wasn't a kit. I bought 4 feet of 3/4 heater hose and a package of bypass caps from autozone. I used the original clamps to secure the hose and the cap. I ended up only needing 3 feet of hose but I didn't know that when I started. Zip tied the hose and hung it right at the bottom of the frame behind the alternator. Lovin it so far, and I really don't know why I didn't do it before.

 

"This part you can do however you want, just don't break the main housing. I cut the corners off like this with the dremel tool and then the posts pull up and out of there, no glue at all."---CTDPWR

Do you have to cut the corners since there's no glue? What keeps a guy from cutting the filter down the middle and disecting like you did versus cutting the corners:confused013:

 

I just cut them off to minimize the chance of breaking the tabs that the posts go down into. If you did break them you could just cut em off and clean em up with the Dremel.

I just couldn't afford to break any of the housing... I didnt want to spend another $70 on a new filter just to cut up.

 

Thanks, I think this will be more self explanatory once I remove the cover and take a look at the filter. I have had it off several times in the past but never considered filter removal.

 

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I might have to do this since I have already had the code to replace the filter once after jumping on the throttle hard. With 45k miles it might be pretty nasty in there though so I might just buy a new one and gut it.

 

What keeps dirt and pollen and all the other stuff from going up the hose?

 

Air coming out

 

I run this kit on mine.

Glacier Diesel Power - Product Detail

 

I'm not saying you shouldn't run that kit or you are wrong for using it... I just want to let people know that running that kit absolutely does not get rid of the CCV filter, and is totally different from the write up. Instead of getting rid of a filter that will eventually clog, you actually add one. So now you have two filters to replace/clean to let you crank breath properly.

Plus you are paying $40 for stuff you could get for $10 from autozone :thumbsup:

 

Just got done with the mod. Easy to do.
I can sleep better knowing oil isn't getting into the turbo.
Great write up!

 

Running the crankcase under vacuum helps keep seals from leaking and, to my understaning, helps increase cylinder wall and piston ring contact (less blow by).

I have seen on numerous engines the humidity from the engine end up freezing vented only "breather" tubes solid which caused blown gaskets/seals, and the dipstick to puke oil profusely.

But to each their own.

 

I really want to gut the CCV.. I just had trouble with it and want it gone. But I am concerned now that I think about what DmnDvo brings up. Colorado is not the warmest place in the Winter.

 

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