It can be done. Can it be done for $35k is the question... 2800 miles isn't the issue. the MPH and the load is, on everything.

but honestly, I think big brother is probably your biggest obstacle to this...

 

there is 33,000 law officers between New York and California, the guy didnt get pulled over once. he used a radar jammer, 3 fuzz busters, a police scanner, a ipad with the trapster app and 2 garmin gps's with traffic mapping and the cover of darkness because he ran it at night.

My plan was to use all that plus lazer jammers but for legit ones not fake internet ones there about 2 grand

 

I think a 2wd reg cab short bed would be a good option but the main issue I see would be your egt's for runnin that hard for that long

 

I also was thinking 2wd, how do you think the egts would be with a set of twins (ideas on reliable turbos), upgraded intercooler, 5" exhaust and water/methanol injection?

 

Big single...twins means more pipes which means more boots which means more clamps which means more chances for boots to blow out...which means downtime to fix...

 

whats a good big single that can take 5000rpm for extended periods of time?

 

You have any idea how much attention your gonna draw runnin a cummins at 5 grand with a 5" exhaust? Lol. There's no need to run the rpms that high just run some tall gears in the rear end. Put a big auxiliary tank in the bed for minimal fuel stops too. Sled pullers and drag racers run that high of rpms for a few seconds and their motors are BUILT, so id try and stay away from extended high rpm runs like that

 

Ya at 5k it would be like a jet engine passing you, I think im gunna run a dual high flow mufflers to keep er quiet, what gears would be good for accleration and speed?

 

I would at least stay with a rclb 2wd... At the speeds you are talking about every little bit of wheelbase will help keep the pickup stable.... Things happen REAL fast when you start pushing over 100-120 for extended periods of time... Probly have to look at a "race" gearbox (I would go with a manual) with a tall od gear and some rear gears at least in the 2.73 to 2.50 ish range. I think your idea is possible, and would love to see it... He!!, I would love to drive it for you!!!!


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A gear vendors OD would help. Anything to reduce rpms. Maybe even some larger tires.

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What about a Gear vendors overdrive?

Haha^ you beat me to it

Might want to look Into mag hytec pans and diff covers as well... at those speeds and the distance, id say other things besides the motor will be getting toasty.

 

I'd install extra trans and oil coolers as well. Anything to reduce temperatures. An auxiliary fuel tank will be needed as well.

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i got to see this

 

:subscribe:

 

What kind of tranny do you guys think would be best, a built 47re with a manual valve body or a nv5600 manual with a dual disk clutch?

 

Start looking for a 12 valve regular cab 2x4 long box, strip interior, run all new gauges, instal a six-speed handshaker, WITH a two-speed rear axle. Maybe run a external gear box too. Run tall gears maybe 2.23's. tires I'd go for a 180-190/50/16-17 . Beef up the frontend rear suspension. Install a 10 point roll-cage. 2 fifty gallon fuel tanks in back with a flip switch to allow fuel to be drawn from one or both tanks on the fly. Couple spare tires and jack. A few wrenches too. I want to help with the build !!!! Bigger sticks and a big single turbo. 3-4 inch exhaust with muffler.

 

Might want to add airbags to support the weight of the fuel. Your also going to need tires that support the weight as well to reduce the risk of a blow out.

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It's a toss up for the tranny. A built auto will be around $3-5k. I'd run a six speed with a dd clutch.

 

Hmmm this would be awesome!

 

X2 on the handshaker, keep it simple, less could go wrong

Id also throw on a mechanical lift pump.

You can build it all you want, but id be sure to prepare for the worst. (Chucking a serp belt, flat tires, etc.)

What about food/water and bathroom?:confused013:

 

He ain't got no time for food-water-pee break !!!!! He's gotta drive almost 3k miles at 100 mph average. Really, he can do that when he stops for fuel. Airbags aren't need as diesel only weighs in at eight lbs gallon x 100 =800 lbs in fuel . Stock suspension will handle that all day long. He's gunna need son weight in the rear anyways. Why not it be fuel ??

 

I'd stay well away from any kind of injectable, as its just one more fluid to run out, limiting your power when it does.

I would try to improve gearing and add just enough power to compensate, rather than run excessive RPM. Extra RPM only strains parts and burns fuel. Make your rig run at 100 the way it does at 70 now!

I would go with a second gen 12 valve 2wd sclb. Long bed for more space for wheels/tools fuel, and more stability. Gear vendors OD, would be on my list for sure. A Dana 70 in the rear with first gen style 3:07 ratio might be a better balance with taller tires and a newly deepened OD, as opposed to a ratio in the 2s. I say that because my first gen could hit 70 on 16 in tires with stock governor springs, basically stock power and no overdrive at all.

Airflow will be your friend while trying to keep egts low. Id say a good intercooler should be on your list.

Are you thinking of lowering the truck?

*disclaimer* I dont recommend these speeds

 

I'd stay well away from any kind of injectable, as its just one more fluid to run out, limiting your power when it does.

Are you thinking of lowering the truck?

*disclaimer* I dont recommend these speeds

Ya i think im gunna run a 4" drop in the front with a coilovers and a 6" drop in the rear with sway bars and fox shocks :confused013:

 

I'd go with that ^^^^^but I'd use a Dana 80 just for the piece of mind of having a hd rear end. I'd also use external coolers for the tranny and rear gears.

 

Either 12 valve or CR...03 305 6 speed rc/lb would be my choice...second gen 467 and like the last guy said a 3.05 rear end with a GVOD

 

I'd like to co-pilot this venture. Will start stocking up on beer and picker uppers. Let me know when we are leaving.:thumbsup:

 

Any updates to this ?? Any more plans?

 

Oh, and make sure your tires are rated for those kinds of speeds!

 

I don't know what they're rated for but I know from experience nitto 420's can handle 140+Mph

 

Continuously?

 

No I meant for a few minutes haha. I was just throwin it out there I would definitely make sure you put some good ones on there. I would hate to see what would happen with a blow out at those speeds

 

The key is going to be weight. In any form of racing, anything that isnt for safety or speed is slowing you down.
The fuel tanks MUST be baffled to prevent the sloshing fuel from sending you out of control.
Use the KISS principal. 6 spd, single clutch, tall rears all 4 tires the same size, ect.
flat black paint is near invisible at night. Keep the truck as quiet as possible! even if you are deaf, cops arent.
I would honestly use a 1/2 ton chassis to save weight. fuel tanks would be the length of the bed and near flat tilted to direct fuel forward so as they empty, the weight moves forward. The must also be able to take-on fuel quickly @ a truck stop. you can fuel from both sides @ the same time! Much faster than filling with gas.
lexan side/rear windows. remove inner fenders.
def. lowered with air dam but not so low it hits on bridges and parking lots.
I would def. use 12v and mech pump and only as much power as needed to get to 165mph.
Research the cars of LeMans racing as this venture is similar but w/o the benefit of a pit or crew.
I would also have MANY planned meets along the route to potentially make repairs or get fresh tires if needed. this could be done @ regular fuel stops. They can fuel/repair you while you pee.