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am i building right?

2.3K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  Hamlin  
#1 ·
soon i'm going to get my first truck, 94-98 cummins and going to go the loan rout and expecting to pay $8000 for a single cab longbed auto 4x4 and have about $10000 for mods left. i was going to get an ats 5 star torque converter, ats valvebody, billet input/output shafts. it is going to get a super b twin turbo.

what injectors are recommend for this setup?

is the tranny strong enough?

with a twin turbo at minimum what other mods do i need for reliability?

will the driveshaft/axle handle fine?

did i over build the tranny?

the truck will be a daily driver but will stomp the throttle every now and then.
 
#4 ·
There are countless ways to get set up, and here are a couple of suggestions:

For 450HP that tows and daily drives some:
5x.012 injectors
Modified fuel plate
62/65/12 or 14 turbo
Governor spring kit (3 or 4K)
60# valve springs are a good idea
AFC tuning!

550HP towing/daily driving
hx35/s400 twins (600HP+ go with s300/s400)
5x.014 injectors
Head Studs
4K GSK
60# valve springs are a good idea
AFC tuning!
3pc manifold

550-600HP hotrod
64/71/14
5x .014 injectors or 5x.016
Head Studs
GSK,
60# valve springs are a good idea
AFC tuning!
3pc manifold
 
#7 ·
I am so glad that you (buck) did not hop in and say you wanted to smoke out your zip code. I can put up with questions like what you asked, but im going to set someones truck on fire and show them what smoke is...:chainsaw:

Just look though some threads, do some searching (yeah it sucks, but its how people learn, and you'll find alot of good info along the way.) Lots of people have asked the same questions you have. Look at peoples signatures and see what they are running. That will give you some sort of idea anyways.
 
#9 ·
Good!:thumbsup: You'd be surprised all the other crap you find out just trying to find what you're looking for! By the time you're done searching for that one thing, you'll have ten times more questions...but ten times more knowledge too.
 
#10 ·
ok i'm back...basically a upgraded torque converter and valvebody is good enough. headstuds are a must. as far as injectors and twin turbo's go...:doh: it makes want to cry how confusing it gets.

i read that twin turbo's are laggy and for towing, is that true? what is the difference between a single and twin setup?
 
#11 ·
It can get confusing.

Not all setups are laggy. Depends on how much fuel you're pushing. Problem is, you don't want to smoke bad or you just look like an inbred moron. For a DD, get a quick spooling top turbo, and a turbo that would be difficult to spool by itself for the bottom. Read down the pages and look at the titles. There's lots of them with titles like: "HE351 over HT3b" Or "HX35 over 75mm" and so on and so forth. And they all discuss their setups to spool them or not to spool them.

You can also google specific stuff like inducer and exducer. Or punch in numbers like 56/60/12 and so on.
 
#12 · (Edited)
well the term twins generally refers to the same turbo side by side. compound is the one you are looking for. one turbo feeding another.

with that said single turbo setups for higher hp is a big turbo that takes time to spool.
compound turbos the small on spools fast and the big one picks up in the higher rpms.
compounds make a 600hp truck alot more streetable because you aren't waiting on the turbo and are better for towing since you have boost in the low end of the rpms.

take a look at the link below plenty of reading and can answer alot of questions with minimal run around.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-tech-articles/21261-tech-article-links.html
 
#15 ·
Do your research on afc tuning. A fun wild street truck between 5-600hp would look something like this if it was me. Goerend trans, bd super b special or silverbullet, 5x014 injector of your choice, put some studs in that head and save some aggrivation. 4k spring kit in the pump, 024 d.v, bump the timing to around 18* and go from there. NO reason why it wont make well north of 500.
 
#17 ·
Well for the power you are looking for a p-pump 12v is the way to go. I am building a compound set for my 1990 12v when I get home and with the compounds, paint, engine work, bed liner, sound proofing, 2004 interior and purchase price of my truck I will have less than $10,000 in the truck. However, it is a VE pumped 12v. . . will not supply as much fuel as the p-pump.

Are you stuck on an auto or would you consider a NV4500 5 speed truck?
 
#21 ·
Amen. Those CR's are the same a buying a car or a gasser, or anything else like that. Diesels in pickups were only good for a handful of years when they themselves were conversions still in infancy. Engines not even designed for that application...

Then diesels got mainstreamed. Soon enough, they'll be so unreliable and expensive to work on, that the general public will just quit buying them. I can almost buy THREE SETS of 12v injectors from Contagixxx for the price of ONE SINGLE CR injector from Dodge! And do you think it's going to get any better?? Soon enough, we'll all be taking our trucks to Dodge, or more likely a Gov't set up agency, to get our DPF's routinely cleaned and checked out.:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead: :banghead: