In reality...the bearing should be adjusted first...
Why bother making adjustments if the bearing has slop...

 

I'm aware of this. I adjusted the over-the-center before I understood that there was another adjustment I could make.

Again, I'm asking for input from those who have personally done the bearing preload adjustment.

 

I had the same thing as the OP. I read several threads explaining the box adjustment. IF the front bearing/steering shaft bearing does NOT have significant slop or play they suggested to adjust the bolt on the TOP FRONT of box. I had to turn the bolt around 2-1/2 - 3 turns to get my wheel at MINIMAL slop. Been fine ever sence. If i ever replace the steering box in my dodge it'll be from NAPA. Reason for that because NAPA is 20 miles away for warrenty replacment. Im not paying high dallor for some "name brand" gear box and then have it shipped in to me or out for warranty were I can drive 20 miles for replacement and be back on the road the same day.

 

I adjusted the bearing preload and found it to be where it was supposed to be before my adjustment. That said, I would back the over center adjustment out and do the bearing preload first. You want to make sure that you did everything correctly or you will be second guessing yourself. Wheels off the ground or pitman arm disconnected of course. You should measure the increase in turning effort required when the box turns unloaded through the center of its range of motion.

Also check for play in the track bar. My truck steers like crap if there is play in 1 end of the track bar. It is easy to blame the part when you don't go through a complete diagnosis at one time.

 

I adjusted the bearing preload and found it to be where it was supposed to be before my adjustment.

I want to point out that my 00 Dodge Ram that weighs ~8,800 lb has very similar adjustment specs when measuring the effort to turn the steering wheel as my 1985 Mercedes 300SD that weighs ~3,500 lb. Mercedes says to adjust with the box installed. Dodge says to pull the box. Note that the Mercedes is German and precisely made with very specific instructions. You decide on your preferred adjustment method.

Not sure what you're saying in either of these posts. Did you have play in your steering wheel? If so, did adjusting the preload and over center help?

I appreciate everybody's input, I understand how to adjust the box and what the FSM says and doesn't say. Also, I likely will pull the box and reseal if i decide to go that route.

What I'm looking for is someone who has done all of that. Someone who had play in their steering wheel and then adjusted the bearing preload and over-center. I want to know if that fixes the problem. Sorry if the question was unclear before, no one has answered it :confused013:

 

I did actually diagnose the problem. There's no play in any of my steering components or track bar, ball joints are good, wheel bearings are good. When I grab the steering shaft and twist it I can see the steering wheel move from 11 to 1 o'clock but the pitman arm doesn't move at all. That's a pretty clear indication that the steering gear is at fault.

So Junkman, did you have play in your steering when you found the preload to be correct? And did you end up replacing your steering gear or what?

 

If it was me I would start over and pull the box and re-adjust the entire thing like if your going to rebuild the box without rebuilt it. More than likely the bearing pre-load isn't tight.

 

Yeah that's probably what I'll end up doing, just wanted to hear from some guys who had done it already to see if it's worth the effort or if I might as well just install a redhead.

 

Bumping this one to the top. Anybody have first hand experience with adjusting the bearing preload?

 

The only thing I can say is that when you take it all apart to rebuild and re-seal the box you have to re-adjust the entire box on the bench. There is no way to do it on the truck properly.

Not hard once it removed from the truck.

More or less common sense from that point. The input end when you release the jamb nut you know how loose the pre-load is. Then the over the center adjust also is common sense too. You'll be able to feel it turning the input shaft.

 

I want to point out that my 00 Dodge Ram that weighs ~8,800 lb has very similar adjustment specs when measuring the effort to turn the steering wheel as my 1985 Mercedes 300SD that weighs ~3,500 lb. Mercedes says to adjust with the box installed. Dodge says to pull the box. Note that the Mercedes is German and precisely made with very specific instructions. You decide on your preferred adjustment method.

 

I did mine some time ago, maybe not the correct way according to Mike but the correct way according to the TSB I got off of Geno's site. Also did the over-center. It did make a difference for me. Maybe not as much as I would have liked but these trucks were never real tight steering from new. My advice to you is to try it. It will only take about an hour of your time (if you have the correct pin spanner wrench) and then you'll know. Also be sure to check the shaft bushing if you have not already. I know mine is getting sloppy.

 

I would almost guarantee moparman has...and what would make you think, that adjusting it properly...wouldn't fix the issue ????

if the box has slop, that's why we adjust it....question is, how long does it last after before it needs replaced or new parts

 

You guys are killing me. Maybe it's just that you're all used to young kids coming in here and asking the same questions over and over so you give these vague or condescending answers that don't offer any help.

Look, I appreciate all the opinions and I'm well aware of what adjusting the box is supposed to do but I'm not asking for thoughts from people who haven't actually done this. I mean no disrespect but most of you are just chiming in with "You should have done it this way" or "the TSB says this". I don't need any of that.

I simply want to hear from someone who has actually performed both adjustments to a sloppy steering box so I might know if it's worth the trouble.

Thanks,
James

 

And so you're an old fart asking the same question expecting a different answer? Redhead had me adjust the over center nut and explained that it would likely get worse soon after adjusting. It did.

So....it really comes down to adjust the box per the FSM and see whether it helps. It doesn't take long unless you pull the box. Box removal is a stated requirement per the Dodge FSM. It is not a requirement per my Mercedes FSM and both vehicles have similar procedures and measured rotational specs.

You simply pays yer money and takes yer chances.

Edit: No one adjusts the box unless they are rebuilding or have play in the box. Mike is the only one that I remember posting about rebuilding even though the destructions are in the FSM.

 

Not everyone who has done it spends the time here...most come in, find a fix and never report back.

I have seen several threads on this issues,
Yes it takes the slop out, but like i mentioned...the ones who do report back, are usually looking for a replacement box. It either was to far gone by the time they tried, or they did incorrectly.

Hell, if my needed adjusting and it worked, i will give you the answer you want...but most dont report back.

 

I simply want to hear from someone who has actually performed both adjustments to a sloppy steering box so I might know if it's worth the trouble.

Thanks,
James[/QUOTE]

I thought that is what I tried to tell you :confused013: If you don't get it after my explanation I don't know what else to say.

 

I thought that is what I tried to tell you :confused013: If you don't get it after my explanation I don't know what else to say.

You did. I thanked you for your post. Sorry, my irritation wasn't with you.

And thanks Moparman, that was much more helpful. My concern was that I'd get the box taken off, find out that the adjustment isn't going to help and then I'd regret not just ordering a redhead in the first place. I think I'll give it a try, though, based on what I've read and I'll report back with the results.

You simply pays yer money and takes yer chances.

Feel free to ignore my threads from now on, thanks. :thumbsup:

 

First off, I rebuilt plenty of Sagnaw boxes. The biggest problem is people not keeping up on power steering fluid changes and start creating wear issues with cooked fluid and over sized tires. The once the its wore like that you might be able to adjust it 1-2 more times and then your going to replace it. Like most of the older truck like the last one was a 1970 Ford F350 truck and needed a seal kit. After I was finish cleaning and inspecting the guts I knew the box was good and just needed a good adjustment on re-assembly.

Now as for my truck I've done the over the center adjustment only twice. The preload is not needed yet. 256k miles and still tight as the day I bought the truck brand new.

This shows a idea of the preload and what it affects. As for the over the center adjustment is the tapper of the gear teeth and how tight its placed into the rack.