in short answer to your thread title, alot

 

I noticed no difference with the grid heater removed.

 

I ran 200* cooler egt without the grid heater and haven't noticed any issues starting in cold weather

 

Thanks for the input man. Anything other than the EGT drop? And do you have any sticks or just the EFI and turbo?

 

Did the deletes along with the AFE Blade-runner Intake Horn and GDP Raised Intake Plate w/grid delete, didn't note any performance improvement, but it makes me feel much better, knowing my motor is not reprocessing soot.arty018:

 

I took mine out, only because I was already installing a new intake tube and it was already accessable. But, I reinstalled another plate that had been cut out larger than the stock hole where the heater sits. So in my case I have a lot more air flow. I wouldnt have bothered taking it out if I didnt find that intake and 5" tube at such a good price, along with the modded heater plate.

 

I did heater delete and mega-flow s3 about 2 weeks ago. Was a little disappointed not to see a bump in mpg's, but at least its soot free now. Glad I did it

 

Do u get a check engine light or anything with it gone?

 

And also. What's considered to cold to have it deleted?

 

Mass is to cold to delete it...

 

Wht happens if u run it without on in the cold. Truck doesn't get driven the full winter

 

Its the grid heater, aids in cold start up.

 

I was about to ask the same question. My 5.9 24v is a simple no parts remove and re-install deal. I'd pull the one on my 6.7 for spring-fall use if it's not difficult or take an expensive part.

 

So it will just be harder to start in the cold then.

 

Is it bad for anything? Not running one in a cold start up if I have it plugged in?

 

I'm in Alabama. We only have temps below 15 maybe 2-3 nights in a year.
But was is the effect on cold starts. Any input from you guys up north?

 

I'm in ND. Mine was out of commission for a while this winter and it made a noticeable difference on startup when the truck sat outside over night. I have a GDP in it now and it is better. I also noticed that the stock one doesn't seem to get full of soot when it gets used once in a while.


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Down to 20 (f) I never had any problems. At 5 (f) it's a little harder to start but still pretty ok, and need to idle for 30 sec. Under that I am not sure how it goes.

 

Havent done it but thought about getting a relocation kit since im in alaska I believe it goes in place where the throttle valve is

 

So my input on this is no one here as said they cleaner their grid heater ran it and then swapped. I have seen one post stating a 200* drop in EGTs but that seems pretty drastic. My guess would be if you actually clean your factory one after your EGR is deleted (egr is what causes the soot to build up) it would flow a lot better. I would bet that if it is cleaned and you were to put an aftermarket intake horn on there and measured the CFM and EGT's then did nothing, but remove the grid heater the results would be a very minimal change. Then if you were to relocate the grid heater instead of removing it on the same set up I bet that your wouldnt see an increase. The grid heater in the head isn't any more restrictive than the older 5.9 set up, the big restriction comes from the soot build up. Everyone Ive seen do the delete has never tried cleaning the factory one.

Granted this opinion is based off of a lightly modifed truck. WIth at most a 2nd gen swap and stock fueling. now if you were to start flowing serious air ie 70+lbs. of boost, I would imagine a complete removal of the grid heater system may make a difference.

 

I have a delete and relocate from GDP.

I don't have solid dyno numbers on this opinion but it all depends on what is done to the truck in the first place. Higher the hp bigger the difference. Does it open it up..? Appsolutly. I didn't want to restrict the turbos I have so I did it. And I've run it in -40C to +35C. Works awesome.

And a cool little trick only a few 5.9 guys probably know about who want to cheap out on milling their head for a side mount intake. A 6.7 intake can be mounted on a 5.9 to open it up and relocated the heater.

 

 

I don't see how this is any less restrictive than a properly clean factory grid heater.

 

I've only started down to +5 without a grid heater. Truck sounds a little grumpy, but it's no biggie. I can't say whether it made a difference , because I did the delete along with every other delete , plus tuning. Hard to say what mod did what amount of improvement wen it's all done at once. I just carry a can of starting fluid. Now that I don't have a grid heater, I don't have to worry about blowing anything up if it is ever too cold to start and I need to give it a little whiff of ether.

 

I did mine a few years ago. installed GDP delete and S3 intake horn at the same time. didn't notice anything besides it ran a little better.

 

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6...forum/6-7l-tech-articles/124697-shibby-k2-grid-heater-delete-install-guide.html

 

I live in Wisconsin. It does get cold. Truck will start. To about zero. Lower than that is a no go. If I know its going to be cold she gets plugged in. Starts fine. A and I did not notice get loss or milage

 

My grid heater seems to have gone bad (open circuit), so I bought one from a guy here. At first I thought the grid heater delete seemed silly, but when the new one came I was surprised to see how small of an opening it is. Tonight I measured it: 1.47" x 5.35", or an equivalent diameter of 3.16". I also measured the boost tube, which has an OD of ~3.6" (not sure what the thickness is). In other words, it's not quite as restrictive as it looks at first glance.

After looking at the GDP relocate kits, I think the benefit comes two ways: (1) if your truck is stock, and the grid is really sooted up, moving the heater grid upstream of the EGR valve could help; and (2) the restriction of the heater grid is happening where the intake manifold dumps into the plenum, rather than in the middle of the boost tube or manifold. The way that the intake manifold flares at the end allows the air to decelerate and recover some of the pressure loss. Putting the grid heater right at the end of the manifold means that the flow has to accelerate, which means more pressure loss when it enters the plenum.

As said somewhere else, if you've already done things to increase power/air flow, this could make a difference; otherwise, it's probably not a huge improvement.