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30" Curved LED Light Bar Installed - Flush In Between Tow Hooks

359K views 391 replies 164 participants last post by  Ruby1024  
#1 · (Edited)
Introduction:
I've had the thought of installing a light bar on my truck for a couple months now. Of course my main concern was being able to install it as cleanly as possible and make it look like it's meant to be there just like most of the other mods on my truck. I wasn't at all interested in roof light bars or having it stick out of the bumper 4 inches... nothing like that. I determined that the only way I wanted to do it is if I could fit a 30" curved bar in between the tow hooks. I want to keep the tow hooks just in case something happens where I do need them. Whether that be someone pulling me out or me pulling someone else out.
All the initial research I had done was full of guys saying you can't fit a curved 30" bar in between the tow hooks, it's too wide. Finally I found a post where I guy notched his tow hooks and bolted the bar directly do it. That was the exact option I was looking for.
I also wasn't at all interested in spending $1200 for a Rigid bar. IMO those are completely over priced and in no way worth that kind of money. I ended up talking to Brandon Joslin (iRIDElow) who's running a number of off brand LED light bars and asked him what his opinion on them was VS Rigid. He straight up told me that if you took name off the Rigid bar you would not be able to tell the difference between it and the off brand. That combined with some other research I had done finding posts where they had been standing up very well had me sold. So a bar became the number one thing on my Christmas list and I was fortunate enough to get it.​

Installation:

Tow hooks
I started off by taking some exact measurements of the distance between the tow hooks in the location I wanted to mount the bar and the overall width of the bar at the mounting points. I then removed 1 tow hook and slid the bar into the bumper to find what my mounting depth needed to be to determine where I needed to notch the tow hook and drill the hole. For my particular light bar I determined that I needed to remove 7/16" from each tow hook and drill the hole 2 1/4" forward of the flat surface of the hook. I then made a template giving me the rough angle of the mounting point on the light bar and started drawing my cut lines on the tow hook.
To cut the main pieces out of the tow hook I used a pneumatic die grinder with a cut off wheel on it. Once I had the main piece cut off I marked where my whole needed to be drilled and center punched it. I attempted to drill through with a hand held drill but there was no way that was going to happen. I broke 3 drill bits in about 5 minutes of trying and then determined I needed a drill press. I whipped down to my Uncle's shop and through it on his press to do it. Worked like a charm; a drill press will definitely be my next investment as far as shop equipment goes. I drilled the hole about 4 sizes bigger than it actually needed to be for the bolt to give me some adjustability and movement to get the light bar sitting straight when I installed it.
Back at my shop I began to test fit everything together on my workbench and found out that I needed to grind the mounting surface of each tow hook slightly to match the angle of the light bar mounting point better. After about 15 minutes I had it sitting about perfect so I cleaned up all the edges with a small grinding wheel and the main modification was done. From there I just threw a couple coats of primer on them and then a few coats epoxy based paint.



Light bar
After that the installation of the light bar itself was fairly straight forward. Bolted the tow hooks back onto the truck and then put the light bar right in place and bolted it up. It's sitting pretty much exactly where I wanted it to and almost matches the curve of the bumper perfectly. I'm very happy with the look and fitment of it.






Wiring
To wire it up I used a good chunk of the relay harness that came with the light bar. I modified it slightly and put a weather proof connector just behind the grill incase I never need to remove the light bar. I mounted the relay right beside the TIPM and ran the power directly to the battery and then ran the wiring nicely along the inside of the fender and through a grommet in the clutch pedal block off plate into the truck. For now I just have it hooked up with the push button switch that came with it but I have ordered a few switches from Otrattw, one of which will be for the light bar. When I get that I'll be installing the switch right on the side of my console for easy access.



Review:
The light output of this bar is phenomenal! It has met all my expectations and then some. When I pulled my truck out of the shop last night with all the lights off and then turned on the bar my Dad and I just started laughing at how bright it is. It lights up everything from the ground 3 feet in front of the truck to the tops of the trees. When I came home last night I turned it on when I first turned onto my street and lit up the yellow caution sign at the end of the street approximately 2150ft (650m) away. Pictures don't do it justice but here's a couple that I took.



Top: low beams only (5000K HID)
Middle: low beams and fog lights (5000K HID)
Bottom: low beams, fog lights, and light bar.


Obviously that last one is just in back backyard outside the shop. I'll get some more comparison shots on the open road when I get a chance. Seeing the output of this light bar as definitely convinced me to put some LED pods on the back end to use as backup lights or load lights in dark areas. I ordered the switch for them already and will hopefully be looking to get a set shortly once I determine how and where I'm going to install them.​
 
#5 ·
that looks awesome. im doing this next.
Thanks guys! Yes the curve of the light bar matches the bumper almost perfectly.

looks awesome, care to tell us the specifics on the light bar itself?
It's an Omotor bar... got it off eBay. Here's the link - 30INCH 180W Curved LED Work Light Bar Flood Spot Combo Offroad Lamp SUV Ute ATV | eBay. $150 and comes with a full wiring harness, generic mounting brackets, and a 2 year warranty. Can't really beat that.
 
#3 ·
that looks awesome. im doing this next.
 
#6 ·
Nice job and great write up. I assume there is a captured nut inside of the mounting area (little nub) at the end of the light case. Do you think it would be possible to grind down the nubs to help offset the about of grinding on the tow hooks?
 
#8 ·
Yes the inside of that nub is threaded. You could probably grind it off if you wanted to but you'd have to fab up some sort of clamp style bracket that would bolt in behind the tow hooks (just like the CJC Offroad ones) and then clamp the light bar somehow. I thought about doing that but determined this was the cleaner way to go.

great write up!

are you at all concerned with the loosing that much metal on the hooks?
Thanks!

Yes and no... For one, it's unlikely that I'll ever actually use them; they're more of a just in case thing. Plus with the strength of the steel and the amount of meat that's still left on that side plus the full other side I don't foresee it being an issue.
 
#9 ·
Very awesome! Very nice install.:thumbsup: I've been wanting pictures of the curved led on a 4th gen to see if it fits the curve of the bumper. :thumbsup:
 
#12 ·
At this point I just have a temporary switch in there that came with the light bar wiring harness. It's just a stick on push button one that I threw beside the headlight switch for now. I just ordered my Otrattw switches yesterday so I'm hoping they'll show up next week so I can finish up the install. Right now I'm thinking about putting them on the removable panel on the side of the center console. Should be easy access there do cut it out and do the wiring.

What was the width of the curved lightbar from end to end? I recently mounted a straight 30" lightbar on mine with the CJC mounts but I'm wondering if I could just use this method to move it back a bit.
The out to out of the mounting points on the bar is 32 1/8".
 
#11 ·
What was the width of the curved lightbar from end to end? I recently mounted a straight 30" lightbar on mine with the CJC mounts but I'm wondering if I could just use this method to move it back a bit.
 
#13 ·
Very clean install, one of the best I've seen yet and definitely looks factory. And that's a heck of a price for a 30" bar.
BTW you have one of the cleanest lookin trucks out there, really like the look of the lifted trucks with factory wheels.

Very nicely done..................................
 
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#15 ·
Thanks for the compliments! I appreciate it! :thumbsup:

I'll be honest, I do plan to put American Force wheels on it in the next few months but I'll only be running them for 7 or so months of the year and then running the stockers/37's throughout the winter. Don't want to trash the American Force wheels through the Canadian winters up here. So then I'll have the best of both worlds.

That is some nice work. I doubt you'll ever have an issue with the tow hook strength, you can always use a bridle if you have a really serious pull.
Thanks! Ya that was my thought exactly. I figure if I ever need that much strength from the tow hooks I'm probably going to have some bigger issues to deal with. lol.
 
#23 ·
Thanks guys!!



Haha I don't even know what I'd have to charge for something like this. I'd have to sit down and think about how long it took me and the tools required. I'm almost thinking I could start a business with all the guys I have asking me to do different mods and such.

What if I just send you my tow hooks? Ive been wanting to do this for sooooooo long, but I dont have all the tools to shave the tow hooks..
I'd need at least the light bar as well to get the angle on the tow hooks correct. But same as above... At this point I don't think I'm interested in doing it as a side job. I'm just not setup well enough for it yet. But you're in Texas man! That's the lifted truck building capital of the world. I'm sure you can find a shop down there to do the work for you.
 
#22 ·
What if I just send you my tow hooks? Ive been wanting to do this for sooooooo long, but I dont have all the tools to shave the tow hooks..
 
#24 ·
I was going to ask the same. But figured I'll just look around for a machine shop around town and show them this post. Gonna order that bar now.
 
#28 ·
Awesome! You guys concerned at all
About blocking your bumper openings like this? Not worried about overheating Trans or anything? Never really thought about adding a light bar until seeing this one! Like I said- awesome!
 
#29 ·
Awesome! You guys concerned at all

About blocking your bumper openings like this? Not worried about overheating Trans or anything? Never really thought about adding a light bar until seeing this one! Like I said- awesome!

Honestly that was the first "scares" of the first guinea pigs to put the lights there. After probably a year of no one having a single problem, or even seeing a difference in temps across the board, I don't think there are any risks. Also, like some have said, the winter covers completely block that opening, even better than the bars do, so obviously it's not too big of a deal


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#34 · (Edited)
Do you think a Dremel or an angle grinder with a cutting disc could take that much material off? Also does the ends of the bar come in at such and angle that you have to compensate the cutting on the hook?
 
#35 ·
An dremel, no but an angle grinder with a cut off disc will definitely do the trick.

Yes the mounting points of the bar are at enough of an angle that you will want to account for it when you cut. I made a bit of a template out of paper, cut it to the right angle, then used that as a guide to mark the line on the tow hook. Then once I had them cut I had to spend about 5-10 minutes on each hook grinding it to be at the perfect angle.