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Discussion Starter #1
Forgive me if this is a dumb question, this truck is my first diesel that's new enough to even have an OBD port. Are there any tuners out there that would allow me to literally do nothing but disable the exhaust sensor codes? Basically looking for the tune for a deleted truck with only the sensors/CEL disabled and not the power.

Situation is: I've been fighting the p2201 (?) code for a year for the NOX sensor, bank 1. Getting sick of my CEL being on constantly and slightly worried that eventually something else will go and put me in limp mode. Right now a full delete would be a costly, slippery slope for me - I have a manual trans with 75k on the stock clutch and I'm gunshy about head gaskets (already took one out on a deleted work truck a year ago, that made bossman happy). I'd want to get a delete kit WITH a muffler (lots of highway miles), full EGR delete as well, along with new head studs and a clutch if I were to delete. But I still do want to delete in the far future.

So I thought this morning... instead of dropping $400 bucks for a sensor. Why not drop 400-500 for a tuner that could just disable the CEL code for exhaust sensors without adding power or disabling the torque management to keep my ears, head gasket, and clutch happy for the time being. Might need a custom tune made... but I live in a no-inspection state and the truck is out of warranty.

If it's possible I'd rather do that, otherwise it's 400 for a sensor I might end up throwing away anyways and I'd already have the tuner should I decide to delete it in the future.
 

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Get a tuner to take care of your code problems and that has a stock power setting for your clutch/head worries. Then delete and your leisure. $400 would go a long way towards a tuner.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's exactly what I was thinking. But I heard the "stock" power or +0 hp tunes on some tuners aren't true stock... they still deactivate torque management and/or mess with a couple parameters that supposedly really wake the truck up without technically adding horsepower output. The other thing I was thinking is if I use a stock tune will it start messing with the rest of my emissions stuff... disabling things it shouldn't disable leading to the truck not regenerating and my DPF clogging or whatever the case might be. Do you know anything about that? Unfortunately I'm pretty clueless when it comes to tuning a diesel. Disabling the torque management would be enough to send my clutch 6 feet under after a few thousand miles I think, it's already getting close to needing a swap.

Ideally literally just looking to disable emissions related CELs and still keep the emissions running for now.
 
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So your stock 2014 truck has a CEL for a NOX sensor..

But you don't want to change any hardware on the truck nor remove any hardware?

But you want a custom program to disable the NOX sensor which is causing the CEL?

This is possible with a custom program but it is not something that one would want to.
Assuming the NOX sensor has indeed failed and is causing the CEL, that sensor and the others in the exhaust emissions are needed to operate the exhaust emissions correctly. DEF/SCR?/Regen/EGR.. etc..

You should not simply disable one sensor, which is what you are asking.

My predictable recommendation is to delete the 2014 truck. You can certainly get a stock power level delete program for your truck.

But... once you have loaded a custom program into your truck and then you try 1 level up, you won't be leaving it at stock power for long.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's about the gist of it. Good point on the sensor actually disabling parts of the rest of the emissions system... although it's not a complete failure of the sensor. If I clear it it takes a day or two to come back, but it does come back every time. I still hear the clicking of what I assume is the def injector working in the exhaust so I think I'm still regenerating okay. I actually took the sensor off last summer and cleaned a nice layer of soot off it and the light went away for a couple months.

I was hoping just to disable CELs for exhaust codes -not necessarily disable the sensor- until something bigger fails and its cost effective to delete the truck - mostly trying to avoid limp mode in the middle of nowhere.

Trust me, I'd love to delete it. But I'm kind of a buy once cry once kind of person when it comes to this stuff so I'd be into several thousands for a full delete with a proper muffler and all the supporting upgrades. Right now I'm in the middle of doing all of the fluids and filters on the truck, need tires, my daily needs a laundry list of fixes ASAP, and not to mention a house remodel so 4k into the truck to make a light go away is probably not the way to go.
 

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I got lower tq. Tunes to save my trans and head gasket but the top end is still very strong. Craig
 
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....... so 4k into the truck to make a light go away is probably not the way to go.

Am I reading that correctly? US$4k to delete the truck? That must mean you are paying a shop to do it?


The last 4th gen truck we "modded the exhaust" on in my garage was several years ago and it was exhaust only and a basic programmer.
6 speed manual trans truck.

The new exhaust system and programmer were way less than US$4k.
 

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Am I reading that correctly? US$4k to delete the truck? That must mean you are paying a shop to do it?


The last 4th gen truck we "modded the exhaust" on in my garage was several years ago and it was exhaust only and a basic programmer.
6 speed manual trans truck.

The new exhaust system and programmer were way less than US$4k.
You can delete these things for 1500 bucks.
 

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You will not get a stock g56 power level tune. They are all based of the 68 trans power levels. That being said if you drive sensibly the least you will need a tuner or someone with one and tunes and exhaust pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Am I reading that correctly? US$4k to delete the truck? That must mean you are paying a shop to do it?


The last 4th gen truck we "modded the exhaust" on in my garage was several years ago and it was exhaust only and a basic programmer.
6 speed manual trans truck.

The new exhaust system and programmer were way less than US$4k.
If I could find a bolt-on exhaust kit with a muffler then no I'd do it myself. If any exhaust welding was required I'd take it to a shop, I'm a terrible welder. But the 4k number was more for the exhaust and egr delete with muffler + a new better than OEM clutch + head studs and install. Factored in buying a decent torque wrench for that too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You can delete these things for 1500 bucks.
I don't doubt it. But from what it looks like even a "stock" tune is going to burn what's left of my clutch. It's not really that I'm trying to do this on the cheap, I'm just trying to avoid paying 400 bucks for a sensor and then throwing that 400 in the bin if I decide to delete it in the next few months/next year. Trying to avoid the bottom of the barrel delete, definitely want to start with a quality kit with a nice muffler, and hopefully at least do the clutch at the same time since mine's got maaaybe 10k miles left on it if left 100% stock. Would prefer to take out the EGR at the same time but that's why my "delete" figures are so high.
 

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There is no need to take the egr/cooler/def tank out. Flopro=500, Ezlynk=500, CTT single tune with no trans is >500.

There is also no need to replace a clutch that isn't having issues. Stock clutch may suck, but driving with some sense can make it last a lot longer than one would think.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
All this makes sense, and I get that deletes don't have to be expensive, I'm just inflating the price to cover all of the other things I might have to cover.

I feel like this is off topic a little so let me reframe the question:

Pretend I only have around $500 bucks to spend, or whatever a decent tuner is but not enough to delete. I know sometime in the future I want to delete, and I also know that I want to go to 35s and a level. I would prefer the wheels and tires first, but I have a nagging CEL that isn't actually causing too much damage. Options are to buy the sensor or to get a tuner to specifically disable the CEL coming on with only a p2201 code (if that's possible with a custom tune).

With the sensor: Cheaper, CEL goes away, rest of emissions systems works as advertised. On the downside I'm putting money into something I'm 90% sure I'm going to bin within a couple years.

With the tuner (assuming disabling CEL for a specific code is possible). CEL goes away, when I go to do tires I can reprogram the speedometer for the larger diameter at home and save a couple bucks. And when I am ready for a delete, I've already got the tuner so it's that much cheaper. Downside is the CEL fix is kind of a bandaid fix and possibly causes the rest of the emissions to have problems.

Which fix do I throw my measly peasant wad at?
 

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I still hear the clicking of what I assume is the def injector working in the exhaust so I think I'm still regenerating okay.

The SCR and DEF system are 1 of 3 components that work together to reduce emissions coming from your truck.

EGR puts exhaust back into the intake.

SCR and DEF are a urea fluid atomized across a catalyst that neutralizes/minimizes NOx.

DPF is the soot/particulate filter...this is what gets the regen.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Correct - and again I don't claim to know much about diesels or emissions - but it was my understanding that the rythmic click is usually indicating the process of spraying DEF onto the DPF to burn off some of the soot - I.E. regen cycle. At least that's what I assumed since the click isn't there all the time. Just after everything warms up and I've done some miles.
 

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The DEF sprays onto the SCR. This is always happening while the truck is running.

The regen of the DPF is a separate event. Regen is accomplished by hotter than normal exhaust burning the accumulated soot off of the filter.

A regen cycle will cause more DEF to be used, but your truck is constantly using DEF when running. Hope this clears things up.
 

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Correct - and again I don't claim to know much about diesels or emissions - but it was my understanding that the rythmic click is usually indicating the process of spraying DEF onto the DPF to burn off some of the soot - I.E. regen cycle. At least that's what I assumed since the click isn't there all the time. Just after everything warms up and I've done some miles.
Post injection into your cylinders is used to burn off the soot during a non passive regen.
 

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Personally, I'd replace the sensor. If it'll still be a few years till you delete cross that bridge when you get there. I'm looking at it from having a family to support perspective. I can save the money over a few years to do deletes if need be. But $400 to fix something that is a bother seems better than spending money I don't currently have. Just my perspective. Plus with the way things are going, I keep my eyes toward the future and how bad is having a deleted truck gonna bite me in the rear when laws change and make it super hard to own one.
 

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Pretend I only have around $500 bucks to spend, or whatever a decent tuner is but not enough to delete
It's $675 for the entire deal and I've done 4 trucks like that. $400 for tunes, $125 for EFI live VIN license (find someone with an autocal or a V2 locally), $150 for pipe and clamps from the local truck parts place.
 
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