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@DogramTD I'm personally a favorite of number 1. The methods are nice too but be aware of the maintenance of the machined wheel. You'll probably want to have it ceramic coated or be super anal about upkeep lest it starts to rust.

@Jimmy N. I just wanted to call out 2 things you posted, 1 about the difference in offset not mattering, and 2 about the scrub radius.

1 - Offset in wheels
There are 3 wheels that come from the factory on these trucks 17, 18 and 20" wheels with offsets all positive and ranging from +43 to +57 (source). The difference between those being roughly 0.5". So, even by your own logic if the factory designed it to handle between these differences then going to a +18 for example is only pushing that 0.5" closer to centerline. I think we can all agree that these massively wide negative offset wheels are hell on wheel bearings, but even so most guys can run them quite some time before that wear really does anything. Is it extra stress? Sure, but unless you're towing heavy all the time or doing off road and making the suspension work it's really not a huge deal.

2 - Scrub radius
With the understanding that offset and tire height have to work together for scrub radius I'm not sure if there is positive, negative or zero. That said, if we compare the 17" wheel and tire vs the 20" wheel and tire (since they almost share the offset) you'll see that even those don't perfect align.

17" wheel
+57mm offset (2.2")
LT245/70R17 (30.5 x 9.6 x 17)

20" wheel
+43mm offset (1.7")
LT285/60R20 (33.5 x 11.2 x 20)

I will be up front in that I'm not sure how mathematically you calculate the scrub radius, I only know what it is. That said, the tires on the 20" wheel are 3" taller, while only losing 0.5" of offset. All things being equal, and since you're not including the top half of the wheel in the additional height that means you're looking at a 1.5" taller wheel with 0.5" less offset, while a taller wheel will help you are still 0.5" off between the two. The 18" wheel may be better or worse, I didn't look. You can also take a look at the calculator and while close you're still a bit different.

911301


My point with all of this is that while these engineers are all smart, and do their best to keep things within reason, there is some reality of buying tires and having wheels manufactured that even FCA has to deal with, not to mention buyer preference. If I missed something glaringly obvious please feel free to correct me, or if you have other thoughts. That said, I've got no desire for a pissing match here, this is mostly others that come to the forum, see your post count and take what you say as gospel. I figured it wouldn't hurt to put some data to this discussion.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I get nervous with lug centric wheels ever since my lug studs snapped with aftermarket wheels. I know there are alot of wheels out there in that configuration, but hub and lug centric is critical for me now, especially carry a slide in camper.
I called and talked to the manufacturer of BORA when spacers. If I were to go with a mild spacer, lug centric isn't even an option.
 

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Discussion Starter #63

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i'd keep the chrome wheels so it matches the chrome accents on the mirrors, grille, etc.. another member said the truck is classy and i agree. i'd stick with some chrome on the rims unless your plan is to black out the truck.
 

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@Jimmy N. I just wanted to call out 2 things you posted, 1 about the difference in offset not mattering, and 2 about the scrub radius.

2 - Scrub radius
With the understanding that offset and tire height have to work together for scrub radius I'm not sure if there is positive, negative or zero.

I will be up front in that I'm not sure how mathematically you calculate the scrub radius, I only know what it is.
My point with all of this is that while these engineers are all smart, and do their best to keep things within reason, there is some reality of buying tires and having wheels manufactured that even FCA has to deal with, not to mention buyer preference.
I sure hope I didn't give the impression that difference in offset doesn't matter. It absolutely does. But part of the equation is rim width and tire height. The wheel diameter really doesn't matter, though.

If you change only the tire height, the bearings will remain happier, but the scrub radius will change. If you change only the tire (and rim) width, everything pretty much remains the same. There's an almost endless amount of combinations, but only a few will keep certain key parameters at or close to factory spec.

I don't know if you can easily calculate scrub radius, but with the king pin inclination known, it's fairly easy to measure it it real life, for a given tire and wheel combination.

And yes, the engineers can and do compromise. Take the Ackerman angle, for example. Learned about that when building my Jeep, making steering arms for behind the axle.
The factory knuckle was way off, more of a one-size-fits-all. I made my own with the correct angle, and handling improved noticeably.

I strongly suspect that Rams are no different, and the knuckles are either correct for the shortest available wheel base, the longest, or somewhere in between. It can't be correct for all of them if using the same part.
Bottom line, you can improve on things by using the most correct parts, or make things worse by straying too far off the specs.
 

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I don’t know what the problem is, I scrub my radius every morning in the shower
 
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@Jimmy N. I guess the point I was trying to make is that I don't think it's as big a concern as it comes off. I agree that you're changing everything you mentioned, but if anything the wheel bearings should be happier since you're bringing the wheel back to the centerline of those bearings (again, making the assumption that all things are equal). Also, I realize wheel diameter doesn't matter for this, I was using it to show the difference in offset in factory wheel/tire combos.

I agree, the factory engineers know what they are doing, but I think with conservative changes you're in good shape. If OP was talking about 14 wides with a -44mm offset, it would be a different story, that would be putting a pretty large amount of strain on components, but even still I can't say I've heard much about premature wheel-bearing wear from them. I'm sure it does, but by how much?

I think the only thing that OP has a real potential to hurt with the changes talked about here is turning radius, and potentially scrub radius, although in non-performance applications I don't think scrub radius matters a whole lot within reason.
 

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Ok, so probably the worst part about a new truck is selecting the style of the new wheels for personalization...I have spent more money in the hours researching and comparing than I the wheels are even worth (ugh). I know what opinions are like (everyone's got em) but I'm looking for yours (opinion that is).

2020 Ram 3500 Limited in granite crystal. I'm going with 20x9 +18 offset and 295/60-20 Toyo Open Country ATII tires

View attachment 911125

And the rim choices are (1, 2, or 3)

-XD842 Snare (Black with grey tint [no red in the center cap])
View attachment 911126

Or XD829 Hoss II Gloss black
OR
Satin black with dark tint spoke accents
View attachment 911127 View attachment 911128

Thanks for your input!

And for comparison, this was my '13 ram 3500 I just sold with XD795 Hoss 20x9 with the same tires
View attachment 911129
I'm in the business of customizing cars and trucks, so admittedly, I'm going to be bias here...stock wheels are just that, stock. Ram does a great job in building our trucks to look good; however, I've never been a big fan of their stock wheels. That said, what look are you wanting to have? The wheels on your white truck are great, and I saw you're possibly think about going with another KMC wheel; so they're not "cookie" cutter, personalizing your wheels will truly set them apart. Here are a couple of recent customer wheels I just did this week...one is a dramatic change, while the KMC set I did is suttle, but turns heads.
911395
911396
19D0CA66-8DB3-46E2-9E98-A51931F21B41_1_105_c.jpeg
 

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Here's mine with zero offset LRG's. It's just a pain in the rear to find a good looking wheel that has a +20 or so offset. These will touch the mud flap under just the right circumstance. They were on the truck when I bought it. The previous owner had 2" spacer's in the springs, no track bar and 35's on it. Goof ball! So I immediately replaced the springs with 1" Thuren springs and Fox Shocks and put a track bar on it. I went with a 265/75/20 tire to lessen how much they stick out. It's acceptable now. Would I install a zero offset wheel? Heck no! Keep searching. Maybe one of these manufactures will get the hint that there are folks who like nice wheels, but have the brains to install the proper offset.

Now that you know how I really feel...;)
WHEELS.jpg
 

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Here's mine with zero offset LRG's. It's just a pain in the rear to find a good looking wheel that has a +20 or so offset. These will touch the mud flap under just the right circumstance. They were on the truck when I bought it. The previous owner had 2" spacer's in the springs, no track bar and 35's on it. Goof ball! So I immediately replaced the springs with 1" Thuren springs and Fox Shocks and put a track bar on it. I went with a 265/75/20 tire to lessen how much they stick out. It's acceptable now. Would I install a zero offset wheel? Heck no! Keep searching. Maybe one of these manufactures will get the hint that there are folks who like nice wheels, but have the brains to install the proper offset.

Now that you know how I really feel... ;)
 

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I agree with those that indicated some sort of Chrome is going to be the way to go. It will match the rest of the truck SO much better. Last thing you want to do is crack open that wallet and shell out a bunch of your hard earned money on something else the wife won't be happy with because "it doesn't match".
 

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@DogramTD I'm personally a favorite of number 1. The methods are nice too but be aware of the maintenance of the machined wheel. You'll probably want to have it ceramic coated or be super anal about upkeep lest it starts to rust.

@Jimmy N. I just wanted to call out 2 things you posted, 1 about the difference in offset not mattering, and 2 about the scrub radius.

1 - Offset in wheels
There are 3 wheels that come from the factory on these trucks 17, 18 and 20" wheels with offsets all positive and ranging from +43 to +57 (source). The difference between those being roughly 0.5". So, even by your own logic if the factory designed it to handle between these differences then going to a +18 for example is only pushing that 0.5" closer to centerline. I think we can all agree that these massively wide negative offset wheels are hell on wheel bearings, but even so most guys can run them quite some time before that wear really does anything. Is it extra stress? Sure, but unless you're towing heavy all the time or doing off road and making the suspension work it's really not a huge deal.

2 - Scrub radius
With the understanding that offset and tire height have to work together for scrub radius I'm not sure if there is positive, negative or zero. That said, if we compare the 17" wheel and tire vs the 20" wheel and tire (since they almost share the offset) you'll see that even those don't perfect align.

17" wheel
+57mm offset (2.2")
LT245/70R17 (30.5 x 9.6 x 17)

20" wheel
+43mm offset (1.7")
LT285/60R20 (33.5 x 11.2 x 20)

I will be up front in that I'm not sure how mathematically you calculate the scrub radius, I only know what it is. That said, the tires on the 20" wheel are 3" taller, while only losing 0.5" of offset. All things being equal, and since you're not including the top half of the wheel in the additional height that means you're looking at a 1.5" taller wheel with 0.5" less offset, while a taller wheel will help you are still 0.5" off between the two. The 18" wheel may be better or worse, I didn't look. You can also take a look at the calculator and while close you're still a bit different.

View attachment 911301

My point with all of this is that while these engineers are all smart, and do their best to keep things within reason, there is some reality of buying tires and having wheels manufactured that even FCA has to deal with, not to mention buyer preference. If I missed something glaringly obvious please feel free to correct me, or if you have other thoughts. That said, I've got no desire for a pissing match here, this is mostly others that come to the forum, see your post count and take what you say as gospel. I figured it wouldn't hurt to put some data to this discussion.
The wildly negative offset rims can double as firepits if necessary.
 
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