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wont start without ether

10511 Views 19 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  steelhead01
my 05 3500 wont start without ether. about 3 weeks ago it got down in the teens and it wouldnt start so i gave it a shot of fluid and it started right up. week goes by with no problems and then a week ago it would start as long as it was plugged in with the temp only getting down to 30's and then yesterday it was 50 and plugged in and wouldnt start without ether but would start right up after it had been ran for a bit and today i can shut it down after driving for 5 hours and try to start it and it wont. cranks over like mad wont wont fire with out some starting fluid, doesnt smoke when it does start and runs fine when it is running. I just towed my 5th wheel 500 miles with it and had no problems except starting. turning the key 3 times shows no codes. Fuel filter has been changed and lift pump is working, i drained the fuel bowl and left the valve open, turned key on and fuel started flowing again. anybody have a idea whats wrong with this turd?
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· GA CUMMINS CREW PREZ & Captain of the USS FAILBOAT
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well, either is going to kill your engine, especially if it ignites prematurely before it reaches the combustion chamber, you will blow the engine to shreds, sounds like you have an injector leaking down, either could have possibly damaged it, check your oil level, see if it appears overfilled, and smells like diesel fuel, also any white exhaust smoke, and smell the exhaust, see if it smells like raw unburnt fuel.
 

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STOP USING STARTER FLUID!!! That is the easiest way to kill a diesel in cold weather. Just ask any powerstroke owner what happened to their engine after they used it day after day. Your engine becomes dependent on it, and can blow your piston up.

Try and crank for 5 seconds, then turn the key off, then let the grid heater warm back up, then crank again. That is really the best way to start it. If that doesn't help I would put draw meter on your batterys and see if the grid heater is pulling power out of them. With it being an 05 there is a chance that your injectors are on there way out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
truck has 70k miles btw. grid heater isnt the problem cuz when i shut it down from a 5 hour drive it wouldnt need the heater to start. oil is proper level with no fuel smell. no white smoke after starting or while running
 

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Sounds like you have a fuel problem. If it isn't the lift pump there can be a hole in the lines, if there isn't a hole in the lines its the CP3, if its not the CP3 its the injectors. Basic run down for you on what to check.
 

· GA CUMMINS CREW PREZ & Captain of the USS FAILBOAT
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Sounds like you have a fuel problem. If it isn't the lift pump there can be a hole in the lines, if there isn't a hole in the lines its the CP3, if its not the CP3 its the injectors. Basic run down for you on what to check.
dont forget to check the FCA also....
 

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The FCA(Fuel control actuator) can either leak or become sticky. Pretty easy to change out. It is located on the back of the Cp3 pump. If you do a search on this forum you will find a ton of info.
 

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I wouldnt rule out the grid heaters either. After 5 hours sitting it may very well require the heaters. Whats the outside temp? Eventually it should start on its own without the heaters. My 12 valve will start at 20 degrees outside without heaters. It will crank for a while. It cranked for almost 2 1/2 minutes the other day when it was 5 degrees outside, but it started. Not good for the starter, but mine is already shot and I have a new one sitting here so I let it crank til it starts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I wouldnt rule out the grid heaters either. After 5 hours sitting it may very well require the heaters. Whats the outside temp? Eventually it should start on its own without the heaters. My 12 valve will start at 20 degrees outside without heaters. It will crank for a while. It cranked for almost 2 1/2 minutes the other day when it was 5 degrees outside, but it started. Not good for the starter, but mine is already shot and I have a new one sitting here so I let it crank til it starts.
I didnt say it sat for 5 hours. i said i DROVE it for 5 hours. shut it off and 5 seconds later it wont start.
 

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O, I mis read that. Sorry. The way I read it I thought you shut it down for 5 hours after driving it and it wouldnt restart. My bad. Definitely sounds like fuel issue then.
 

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had a guy here local, had same problem, went to 6 different dealers, nobody could figure out the problem, they through parts at it, and emptied his wallet.
i told him over the phone, injectors.
he bought injectors, and i did the work, runs and starts every time now.i say you have injector problems, they are returning too much fuel back, causing a no start. thats why starting fluid will start the truck, once running its fine, with no problems.
starting fluid and grid heaters don't mix, but you got to do what you got to do.
 

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I agree, that makes total sense. If the injectors are returning, there would be air in the system. It probably isnt cranking fast enough to get the air out, but once it fires on ether its spinning fast enough and will prime itself back up. A better alternative to starting fluid is wd40. Its not as combustible so the grid heaters wont ignite it, but it will ignite in the cylinder.
 

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Injectors

It's the injectors, nailing down which one is time consuming. I threw parts at mine and everything led to the injectors. FCA will not fix this I paid and tried this. I just had each injector line blocked off individually by a dealer tech using their scan. It showed 3 and 5 injector dropping pressure.

If you are in a jam and carry a 1 inch and 1/16 socket and ratchet with you. Pull the fuel filter and put it right back in you and you will get the prime you need to start it up on the second turn of the key.....works everytime. It's only a temporay fix that I use instead of using ether.

Anyone know where I/we can get a deal on injectors?

HC
 

· TECH SPECIALIST
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best to replace all 6 at same time with tested matched set for even power production across all six holes otherwise may end up with one or two hot holes and burned pistons.
with all the tip manufacturers and modifiers out there now, matched sets are even more critical.

Industrial Injection Services
or
F1 Diesel Injection
 

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Same thing happened to my 03. Went on for weeks. two different shops later got it fixed. they changed the cam sensor, didnt work. changed the high pressure relief valve on the fuel rail (forgot the actual name), it didnt work. Finally the tested the injectors. Found that two of them where bad, even though the tuck never smoked, or ran bad. They replaced them, and everything worked like normal. no more problems after that.
 

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rp,
agree with ya.
only replacing a few is like having 3 women in bed,
a big titted blonde,
a big butted brunette
and a tight red head

they're all different:thumbsup:

and there is going to be hell to pay before it's over



Sorry, they replaced all 6. not just 2 of them. what chrylser reccomends.
 
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