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Discussion Starter #1
hi folks. Friend of mine has an old, I believe its a 92 Dodge 4 X 4 with the cimmins in it. He hauled it out, tore the engine apart and left it, Brought me in to put it back together,

long story short, the engine's been rebuilt, new lift pump ( prime pump) installed, bled the fuel lines ad nausea, no start. Tied the thing to another 94 Diesel, dragged it down the road at 50 miles an hour, still no start!

Pulled the front cover off the engine, everything is properly timed. Getting fuel enough to drive a CAT , but the engine won't run. a shot of starting fluid the thing starts right up. Nadda with the diesel. Oh installed a new fuel filter as well!! Again bled everything. Still have nadda.

Anybody have any suggestions??

Your time is appreciated!

BR
 

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To low of compression to start under Diesel alone. ??
Just guessing here.
Why would it start with fluid and not the fuel.

Start fluid is more flamamble and easier to fire up.

Check valve adjustments ??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Never really considered the compression being too low. With the gas engines after rebuild I used to dump a bit if tranny fluid in each cylinder and crank her up. No idea on how to do anything like that on a diesel.

I ama aware of the volitability of the starting fluid compared to diesel fuel.

Valve clearances were checked 4 times before I put the covers on. I set them, run the engine over a few times, set them again, etc, etc.

Appreciate you taking the trime to respond, anything else feel free to post. I'm stymied on this!!

BR
 

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Check for voltage to the intake heater grids. If you dont have warm air going in, these are a bear to start. I know you have air/fuel/and compression... but our grids really do get the air/fuel to that flash point quickly. If everything else is good, that is the only thing I can think of, especially if it will run on either. Dont keep feeding it the start fluid, you can blow things up quick with that stuff.
 

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Did the old 92s have heater grids or glow plugs. That would be what i would check (glow plugs that is)
 

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Bad injectors, IP, or fuel pump????
 

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First gens have grid heaters. I wouldn't think the grid heaters were a problem. They don't even come on by themselves until it's 50 or so degrees... Which, coincidentally, means that you really don't want to be using the ether below 50 or so degrees with the grid heaters still connected...

You are getting fuel at the injectors, correct? If you are getting fuel at the injectors, it's down to a pressure problem or timing problem.

I had the same issue on my truck after an injection pump install, turned out [some garage gremlins] mangled the injection pump gear key, which put it just far enough out of timing to not want to start. Retarding the timing from stock levels makes it inoperable a lot faster than advancing the timing does.

Make sure that the timing key isn't sheared (it should slide it with minimal pressure), and that the timing mark on the outside case of the pump lines up with the mark on the timing case of the engine.

Then again, I had a similar problem on my truck before I rebuilt the injection pump... Was the IP rebuilt or just the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
First gens have grid heaters. I wouldn't think the grid heaters were a problem. They don't even come on by themselves until it's 50 or so degrees... Which, coincidentally, means that you really don't want to be using the ether below 50 or so degrees with the grid heaters still connected...

You are getting fuel at the injectors, correct? If you are getting fuel at the injectors, it's down to a pressure problem or timing problem.

I had the same issue on my truck after an injection pump install, turned out [some garage gremlins] mangled the injection pump gear key, which put it just far enough out of timing to not want to start. Retarding the timing from stock levels makes it inoperable a lot faster than advancing the timing does.

Make sure that the timing key isn't sheared (it should slide it with minimal pressure), and that the timing mark on the outside case of the pump lines up with the mark on the timing case of the engine.

Then again, I had a similar problem on my truck before I rebuilt the injection pump... Was the IP rebuilt or just the engine?

The engine was rebuilt, the feul IP is the original. I didn't disasseble the pump, nor remove it from the engine.

Reinstalled the pump per the diodge manual. After install and first start attempt, pulled the rad and the engine front cover, rechecked the timing and the feul pump key way's good, the timing is good.

I don't see the heater fgrids being a problem its been 12 to 16 degress C the past few days, so the heater grids wouldn't even come on.

I was told there is a resetable solenoid on the fuel pump/engine somewhere. Anybody know any thing about that?? I've looked around the IP area and i don't see jack Squat?

Thanks for all the pointers thus far, Sure do prewshade you're time and advise folks!
 

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The fuel shutoff solenoid has one wire that goes to it; it is a little circular thing with two spade connectors (that are attached to each other) that sits on the top back of the injection pump.

The solenoid needs to have 12 volts to open, and it needs to be open to run; if it isn't open, you won't get enough fuel to the injectors to run. You will still get some fuel, though.

If you don't have 12 volts and a few amps to that solenoid it might explain what your problem is, but if it is shut it shouldn't start running after you use ether... It should run on the ether for a second or two and then slobber and stall.
 

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What all was replaced? Any machining to speak of, or was it what needed replacing, got replaced and nothing else?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The fuel shutoff solenoid has one wire that goes to it; it is a little circular thing with two spade connectors (that are attached to each other) that sits on the top back of the injection pump.

The solenoid needs to have 12 volts to open, and it needs to be open to run; if it isn't open, you won't get enough fuel to the injectors to run. You will still get some fuel, though.

If you don't have 12 volts and a few amps to that solenoid it might explain what your problem is, but if it is shut it shouldn't start running after you use ether... It should run on the ether for a second or two and then slobber and stall.

That's exactly what it's doing! Runs on starting fluid, stops as soon as the fkuid is done!

I cracked #3 fuel line at the injector and dragged the thing down the road for about 10 miles. Fuel pissed all over the place, so I assumed we're getting enough fuel to the injectors.

I didn't meter the amperage nor voltage to the solenoid, I didn't have a meter with me last trip out. I will take one and measure it tomorrow. I assume its getting lots of voltage and amperage - it gets really warm if I leave the key on for about 5 minutes!

I will let yáll know how I make out tomorrow evening!

Wife wouldn't let me go outa the house today! Blood pressure is 202 over 12~!
 
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