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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My '95 has this problem intermittently but today it did it 3 times in a row.

When the engine is warm, I try starting it and it cranks rapidly, like a gas engine with all the spark plugs taken out (no compression). I turn the key off and sometimes it takes 2 or 3 attempts and then she will fire up. Last time it took 5 attempts so the problem is getting worse and I will get stranded unless I get this problem resolved.

I hope it is something I can do but my mechanical skills are limited to engine oil changes..:) . I had a problem like this once with an old VW diesel, I would tap on the injector pump and sometimes that would get it to work.

The engine has 209 K miles on it and runs like a champ, no smoke, fires up within 2 seconds even when cold...so what is the problem here? Thanks...:confused013:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK, where is that located? I know where the TPS is, since I replaced it and going to replace the bushings on the bracket since I have been having troubles with it shifting in and out of lock-up. Where is the solenoid in relation to the throttle linkage? Does the linkage need adjusting or lubrication that is causing this problem or is the solenoid going bad? Thanks.
 

· Sasquatch
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This is what it looks like:


It sits on the side of the injection pump on the driver side.

If pulling this arm works then it is probably a corroded connection with the blue fusable link or the brown wire on the battery.
 

· The 10th Man
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OK, where is that located? I know where the TPS is, since I replaced it and going to replace the bushings on the bracket since I have been having troubles with it shifting in and out of lock-up. Where is the solenoid in relation to the throttle linkage? Does the linkage need adjusting or lubrication that is causing this problem or is the solenoid going bad? Thanks.


on the bottom of the solenoid there's a rod coming out of it, attached to that rod is a lever, the engine will not get any fuel if the lever is down.

The shut off solenoid almost never goes bad and if it goes bad it's very easy to tell by looking at it, it will look all melted and burnt.

what most likely is the problem is the the SOS (shut off solenoid) relay or the blue fusible link attached to the battery, but my guess would be the relay. the blue fusible link on the battery is not a operatic problem if it goes bad then it won't work ever, normally.

If that's the problem then if your truck won't start then pull up on that lever and it should start once up it should stay up as long as the key is on.

you can do that for years, lots of people do. :thumbsup:
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys. I did notice some corrosion on the positive post on one of the batteries the other day. I will clean the terminals and see if that helps too.. Puzzle is though, why does it seem to turn over so much faster when it is in this "won't start" mode? Almost like it has a compression release thing going on....like my big Stihl chainsaw!!!:)
 

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i bet you arent making contact on the positive wire to the battery from the shut off solenoid. This happened on our 97 and I ended up replacing the whole terminal and the ends and the truck fired right up. Try checking the wires on the battery and see if she fires. if not check the solenoid like stated above and replace if necessary
 

· Super Moderator
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The next time it wants to start hard take a wire or rubber strap and pull the fuel shutoff arm up and wire it then see if it starts better.
 
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