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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there - I inhereted this beast from my pops a couple years ago. Finally saved up the money for the 4x4 conversion and fresh paint and body work. She's always ran great but after getting her back from the conversion she feel's like a slug. Planning on having her looked at soon by Sin City Diesel out here in vegas. I'd like to get 3k gov springs, have the fuel plate adjusted, and the fueling screw set / possibly timing set to 16°. I want her to be reliable above all but she's not boosting nor putting out any black smoke like she used to. I think she tops out around 18-20lbs where are before she'd hit 30lbs with no effort. Not that I'm after smoke but its something I noticed it doesn't do anymore. And possibly not going into overdrive, but this is a 3k built 47rh so not sure where to start. Anyway when browsing under the hood I noticed this wire...curious if anyone has any input what it's connected to and or what the heck its for. If you made it this far - thank you lol. This whole thing has been a journey. When she's back from paint in mid october i'll post some photos. 285/75's tomorrow after work!


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If it goes to the unit bolted to air intake hon that is the control unit for a BD Pressure Lock on the transmission.
 
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What year is your truck, looks like 98+?
 
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That looks like the vacuum solenoid for a bd diesel exhaust brake. I have one on my truck and it takes vacuum from the vaccum pump.
 
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If it goes to the unit bolted to air intake hon that is the control unit for a BD Pressure Lock on the transmission.
Op said that the truck has a 47rh transmission so its probably a 94 or 95.
 
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Like others have said, if you are referring to the wires going to the thing on top of the intake horn, that is a spool valve for a BD Exhaust Brake. Your truck is an automatic so you probably also have a torque converter lockup controller as well.

I just installed one on my truck a month or so ago. If the exhaust brake isn't working andyou want to get it working, let me know, I'll try to help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i appreciate all your replies. this truck when it was 2wd had a bd trans and trans brake but the gentleman i paid to do the 4x4 conversion said the trans shop wouldn't change out the tail shaft. i ended up giving him the bd trans for 800$ credit towards a 2900$ 47rh rebuild. i don't think the trans brake is still on my truck, i'd have to look.

its a 95 on a 98 frame.

i need someone to go through this thing, it feels a lot different then it did before i had the swap done. it feels slower somehow, it defuels around 2200 rpm which i hear is normal but now it can't get anywhere close to 80mph. Pretty sure its the same ratio i had before albeit on a dana 80 (donor frame was a '98 nv4500)

i called my local shop and i'm excited to get it it in but they're pushing a FASS and all that. I just want it to run well stock and keep up in traffic. if anyone knows a good cummins shop in vegas or southern utah or southern california that can help me with modest goals please let me know. I don't want 900hp. I'd be happy with like 250/600ft lbs of torque and 3k redline
 

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is it 24v or 12v?
 

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OK, What year did they start with the big valve cover?
 

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OK, What year did they start with the big valve cover?
That just a beauty plate, came factory on all 12 valves. Does nothing except give dodge a place to put their name on the Cummins engine. It has to be removed to access the actual valve covers off (the six individual valve covers), so a lot of the time they just don't get re-installed. I have mine hanging on the garage wall as wall art.
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i appreciate all your replies. this truck when it was 2wd had a bd trans and trans brake but the gentleman i paid to do the 4x4 conversion said the trans shop wouldn't change out the tail shaft. i ended up giving him the bd trans for 800$ credit towards a 2900$ 47rh rebuild. i don't think the trans brake is still on my truck, i'd have to look.

its a 95 on a 98 frame.

i need someone to go through this thing, it feels a lot different then it did before i had the swap done. it feels slower somehow, it defuels around 2200 rpm which i hear is normal but now it can't get anywhere close to 80mph. Pretty sure its the same ratio i had before albeit on a dana 80 (donor frame was a '98 nv4500)

i called my local shop and i'm excited to get it it in but they're pushing a FASS and all that. I just want it to run well stock and keep up in traffic. if anyone knows a good cummins shop in vegas or southern utah or southern california that can help me with modest goals please let me know. I don't want 900hp. I'd be happy with like 250/600ft lbs of torque and 3k redline
There is absolutely no reason to put an electric lift pump on a 12 valve. The stock mechanical pump is more than adequate and will outlast an electric pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i agree. they never emailed me the proposal so not sure they're interested. i'd like to get:

change tensioner and belt
oil change
fuel filter change
check intercooler couplers
vacuum lines
adjust tps
16° timing
fuel plate
fuel screw
3k gov springs

any idea what i'd be looking to spend on all this? 2k cover it?
 

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What’s the “fuel screw” on your list there?

Also, if you’d do the work yourself ( and these old diesels are not complicated or hard to work on ) , the total cost to get your list done ( aside from the fuel screw that doesn’t really apply to your engine) would be around $200.

Even if you had to buy every tool needed to do the work you’d still come out easily $1k ahead of paying a shop to do it.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
the star wheel screw? fueling screw maybe? afc perhaps. it slips my brain at the moment. pack up your tools and ill fly you and yours out to vegas for a week so i can have someone knowledgeable and trustworthy handle it
 

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The first gen VE pumped 12 valves have a fuel pin ( not applicable to the p7100 second gens).

The pre-boost fueling adjustment is often referred to as “ the smoke screw” because if you crank it in the truck will smoke on accelerator tip in.

You’d be money ahead paying $2k to your local shop over hiring me to come out there. I may be a whore, but I’m an expensive whore. Jokes aside, these trucks are pretty basic with very little computer involvement, unless you’re independently wealthy or disabled, it’s worth a shot taking a stab at it yourself
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
lol i'm an elevator man so being an expensive whore is also a hobby of mine. i have more money than i have time these days and with the sentiment of the truck i sure don't want to ruin it. hell at this point i'm probably 13k into it. after paint and body i'll be a bit more but i'm so stoked. i know i'll never beat my brother's built 6.0 power stroke in a race but i'll for damn sure outlast it haha. it has some sort of fuel plate in it already. i guess i could try to find a shop to change plates and gsk and timing. Anything else i should look into getting done? also your thoughts on timing degrees and which fuel plate?
 

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I'm a field test engineer, the company I work for charges $8500/ day for me to be on a customers site (unfortunately I'm straight salaried and don't see anywhere near that in my paychecks), so I've had a few customer's millwrights call me an expensive whore a few times, guess they're really not wrong.

As far as timing goes (and general mods too), you never said your intended use of the truck. If its a dedicated tow rig that's going to be used for nothing but towing your massive boat to and from lake Mead, then 15-16 degrees of timing is what you want. If you want a street hooligan play toy with a lot of top end HP, then 21-24 degrees of timing is more appropriate. For an all-around type truck I prefer 18 degrees. Of course most of the other modification parts will be different too based off your intended use of the truck (things like injectors , deliver valves , turbo selection, etc).
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
goals would be comfort at highway speeds, reliability, maybe economy. I don't have anything to tow yet, can't imagine i will anytime soon. maybe tow a goose neck camper 1 way upto utah at some point if i'm lucky. either way i'm grateful for the guidance!
 

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The easiest way to get the right parts (and only buy them once) would probably be to give DAP (Diesel Auto Power) a call and ask for Jacob (the owner).

He's a really nice guy, very knowledgeable, and DAP sells everything you'd need at a very competitive prices. I'd suggest you talk with him about the truck and what you want to do with it, then buy the parts he suggests and have your local shop install said parts (assuming you still don't want to install them yourself). Last I knew DAP discounted forum members like 5% or something, but that was before the recent crazy inflation so the discounting may have gone away. Link to DAP's website 94-98 Dodge section below in case you've never heard of them.
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