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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Noticed it two days ago for a few seconds. This morning it’s belching white with just a bit of blue and missing.

No recent changes. Pump balanced in May. Drained fuel filter to check for water. Didn’t appear to be any.
Injectors have 265k on them, cleaned a few months ago, but have not been pop tested. Fuel pressure is 34psi, a bit high. I can back that down a bit, but I think it’s because it was cool this morning and it hadn’t warmed up. Put 1000 on the other day and saw 22-30 psi.

Do weak pop pressures lead to fouled injectors? I can order new injectors, but don’t like throwing parts at a problem. I do not have a compression tester for diesels.
I can toss a new filter on it as winter isn’t far away, but my fuel pressure readings don’t lend to that being a problem.

Any thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.
 

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If the injectors aren't popped to spec they will be smokey.
 

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It is normal for cold engines on cold mornings to smoke white. Your fuel pressure is good. Your injectors don't have enough miles on them to be worn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is more than warming up. I took it 8-10 miles yesterday at 70 degrees or warmer. When I get the rpm’s up it disappears, then slowly returns a little. Come to a stop or slow down a while, then it comes on again pretty strong until I step on it.

Oil pressure is good, temp is normal and coolant is clean. EGT seemed normal. No external indications of leaks. Turbo on intake side is clean and normal play.

I have a set of 7x11 injectors I could install as a temporary check and could leave them in until I get my stock ones cleaned and pop tested.

I did empty out about ten gallons of fuel from the auxiliary that is a couple months old. If it had some water in it, it should get caught at the filter and have been purged by now I think. I put on 1000 miles since and it purred the whole way.
 

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I guess slipped timing is a possibility??
Unlikely unless you messed with the engine timing recently. My fuel pressure is 30 at idle. If you have sac style injectors they have a idle haze and that is normal for that kind of injectior.
 

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Unlikely unless you messed with the engine timing recently. My fuel pressure is 30 at idle. If you have sac style injectors they have a idle haze and that is normal for that kind of injectior.
Nevermind you have stock injectors. The injectors could be getting close to the end of there life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Same scenario
Tire Car Wheel Plant Vehicle

this morning, but it’s clearly missing. I think I will crack one injector at a time to narrow it down, then pull the offending one or two and investigate. Hopefully clean and replace. My older Cadillac blew a brake line this morning. Having lunch and deciding which one to repair first. I think it will be Cadillac so I can get one running vehicle and then have my injectors popped before reinstall. Maybe lunch and shot will guide me better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cracking injectors told me nothing at all. Maybe a little change at number 6, but at any rate it’s smoking worse than ever. My uneducated nose guess is fuel. Coolant still clean. 30 psi fuel at idle. I should be able to check timing easy enough. I better work on my Cadillac so I can get to work tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Automotive lighting Jaw Fastener Automotive tire Auto part

Not a great pic, the oily side is the bottom. It is above the center where the flag can be pinned. It was near the bottom (oily side) when I set it this spring. So it’s only a degree or two retarded from stock, but I hope that’s enough to cause me issue. Got an hour of daylight. Don’t think I’m going to make it tonight.

I forgot how to turn just the pump when the cam gear is pinned. Did I just put the nut and washer on? I want to shoot for 14 or 15 degrees this time. I think I was at 18 before and boost lagged more than I like. With winter coming it will start easier.
 

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If you try to turn it with just the locknut the nut will jam and you won't be able to get it off. I suggest you fab up one of these.

Automotive tire Wood Grey Road surface Floor
 

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You thread the nut onto the shaft, then tighten the bolt. The shaft can be turned in either direction with it installed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
For those with a barring tool, you must use a universal joint on the engine side? Or will a wobble joint give enough room, or do you run it straight in. Working by one’s self, it would be nice to be able to turn it over while holding your finger in the hole for the pump gear. Guess and check is a little slow.
 

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Just put a socket/ratchet onto the nut inside your alternator pulley, you can turn the engine in one direction with just that nut, but it will usually slip in the other direction.

For those with a barring tool, you must use a universal joint on the engine side? Or will a wobble joint give enough room, or do you run it straight in. Working by one’s self, it would be nice to be able to turn it over while holding your finger in the hole for the pump gear. Guess and check is a little slow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just put a socket/ratchet onto the nut inside your alternator pulley, you can turn the engine in one direction with just that nut, but it will usually slip in the other direction.
That is what I do, but for setting timing you need to rotate ccw a bit to take the gear lash out, then rotate it clockwise to pin the pump gear. You can do it off the crank, but it’s up and down, guess and check to do it.
 

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Good point. Might still be worth a try.

I had a barring tool for my engine, but itbmust have been cheap Chinese or something, because it fit awful and was herky jerky in operation, and often would bind up. Luckily it was softer metal than the flywheel, and chewed itself up before damaging anything else.

But I did have to use a universal joint and a long extension with it.

That is what I do, but for setting timing you need to rotate ccw a bit to take the gear lash out, then rotate it clockwise to pin the pump gear. You can do it off the crank, but it’s up and down, guess and check to do it.
 

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It is normal for cold engines on cold mornings to smoke white. Your fuel pressure is good. Your injectors don't have enough miles on them to be worn out.
False. Injectors can fail and wear out whenever. It's rare but I wouldn't completely rule them out off the bat, especially if you dont know the long term history on the vehicle.

My old jetta TDI uses Injectors that are virtually identical to the ones on our trucks, and my Injectors were trash in less 200k miles. To the point was costing me nearly 15% loss in fuel economy, "rolling coal" like a freight train, causing a slight fuel dilution (.05%), and other insolubles visable in the engine oil analysis... from poor combustion. Rare, but mechanical injectors can fail early.

Diesel is a lot better (cleaner) than it used to be, so in theory they should last longer now. I dont care what these idiots on the internet forums say, ULSD burns significantly cleaner and lubricates just well if not better than the old "crap".

White smoke is definitely a sign of slipped (retarded) timing... Timing can move slightly over a long period of time because it's a tapered shaft with no keyway.

If the timing slipped....or was not timed correctly from the beginning.... usually because the gear/pump was reinstalled, the truck wouldn't start or run.

Also retarded timing would give more symptoms, poor performance, coughing / spitting at higher rpm
 

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I guess all those trucks exiting truck stops pushing white smoke from their stacks on cold mornings is a figment of my imagination.
 

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I guess all those trucks exiting truck stops pushing white smoke from their stacks on cold mornings is a figment of my imagination.
Well duh. Mechanical fuel systems probably dont compensate for temperature change so hazing at idle is to be expected.

I see plenty of old trucks leaving my DC on cold mornings and its usually a darker grey/blue smoke than white but close enough i guess.
 
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