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Whitish smoke

2K views 38 replies 6 participants last post by  ekvhekvh 
#1 ·
Noticed it two days ago for a few seconds. This morning it’s belching white with just a bit of blue and missing.

No recent changes. Pump balanced in May. Drained fuel filter to check for water. Didn’t appear to be any.
Injectors have 265k on them, cleaned a few months ago, but have not been pop tested. Fuel pressure is 34psi, a bit high. I can back that down a bit, but I think it’s because it was cool this morning and it hadn’t warmed up. Put 1000 on the other day and saw 22-30 psi.

Do weak pop pressures lead to fouled injectors? I can order new injectors, but don’t like throwing parts at a problem. I do not have a compression tester for diesels.
I can toss a new filter on it as winter isn’t far away, but my fuel pressure readings don’t lend to that being a problem.

Any thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.
 
#2 ·
If the injectors aren't popped to spec they will be smokey.
 
#3 ·
It is normal for cold engines on cold mornings to smoke white. Your fuel pressure is good. Your injectors don't have enough miles on them to be worn out.
 
#18 ·
False. Injectors can fail and wear out whenever. It's rare but I wouldn't completely rule them out off the bat, especially if you dont know the long term history on the vehicle.

My old jetta TDI uses Injectors that are virtually identical to the ones on our trucks, and my Injectors were trash in less 200k miles. To the point was costing me nearly 15% loss in fuel economy, "rolling coal" like a freight train, causing a slight fuel dilution (.05%), and other insolubles visable in the engine oil analysis... from poor combustion. Rare, but mechanical injectors can fail early.

Diesel is a lot better (cleaner) than it used to be, so in theory they should last longer now. I dont care what these idiots on the internet forums say, ULSD burns significantly cleaner and lubricates just well if not better than the old "crap".

White smoke is definitely a sign of slipped (retarded) timing... Timing can move slightly over a long period of time because it's a tapered shaft with no keyway.

If the timing slipped....or was not timed correctly from the beginning.... usually because the gear/pump was reinstalled, the truck wouldn't start or run.

Also retarded timing would give more symptoms, poor performance, coughing / spitting at higher rpm
 
#4 ·
This is more than warming up. I took it 8-10 miles yesterday at 70 degrees or warmer. When I get the rpm’s up it disappears, then slowly returns a little. Come to a stop or slow down a while, then it comes on again pretty strong until I step on it.

Oil pressure is good, temp is normal and coolant is clean. EGT seemed normal. No external indications of leaks. Turbo on intake side is clean and normal play.

I have a set of 7x11 injectors I could install as a temporary check and could leave them in until I get my stock ones cleaned and pop tested.

I did empty out about ten gallons of fuel from the auxiliary that is a couple months old. If it had some water in it, it should get caught at the filter and have been purged by now I think. I put on 1000 miles since and it purred the whole way.
 
#5 ·
I guess slipped timing is a possibility??
 
#6 ·
Unlikely unless you messed with the engine timing recently. My fuel pressure is 30 at idle. If you have sac style injectors they have a idle haze and that is normal for that kind of injectior.
 
#8 ·
Same scenario
Tire Car Wheel Plant Vehicle

this morning, but it’s clearly missing. I think I will crack one injector at a time to narrow it down, then pull the offending one or two and investigate. Hopefully clean and replace. My older Cadillac blew a brake line this morning. Having lunch and deciding which one to repair first. I think it will be Cadillac so I can get one running vehicle and then have my injectors popped before reinstall. Maybe lunch and shot will guide me better.
 
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#9 ·
Cracking injectors told me nothing at all. Maybe a little change at number 6, but at any rate it’s smoking worse than ever. My uneducated nose guess is fuel. Coolant still clean. 30 psi fuel at idle. I should be able to check timing easy enough. I better work on my Cadillac so I can get to work tomorrow.
 
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#10 ·
Automotive lighting Jaw Fastener Automotive tire Auto part

Not a great pic, the oily side is the bottom. It is above the center where the flag can be pinned. It was near the bottom (oily side) when I set it this spring. So it’s only a degree or two retarded from stock, but I hope that’s enough to cause me issue. Got an hour of daylight. Don’t think I’m going to make it tonight.

I forgot how to turn just the pump when the cam gear is pinned. Did I just put the nut and washer on? I want to shoot for 14 or 15 degrees this time. I think I was at 18 before and boost lagged more than I like. With winter coming it will start easier.
 
#12 ·
I recall seeing that. What keeps it from jamming?
 
#13 ·
You thread the nut onto the shaft, then tighten the bolt. The shaft can be turned in either direction with it installed.
 
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#14 ·
For those with a barring tool, you must use a universal joint on the engine side? Or will a wobble joint give enough room, or do you run it straight in. Working by one’s self, it would be nice to be able to turn it over while holding your finger in the hole for the pump gear. Guess and check is a little slow.
 
#15 ·
Just put a socket/ratchet onto the nut inside your alternator pulley, you can turn the engine in one direction with just that nut, but it will usually slip in the other direction.
 
#19 ·
I guess all those trucks exiting truck stops pushing white smoke from their stacks on cold mornings is a figment of my imagination.
 
#20 ·
Well duh. Mechanical fuel systems probably dont compensate for temperature change so hazing at idle is to be expected.

I see plenty of old trucks leaving my DC on cold mornings and its usually a darker grey/blue smoke than white but close enough i guess.
 
#21 ·
Mine was pushing white even on a ride after warming up and the more I pushed it, the worse it was getting. Hopefully FedEx delivers a new timing cover tomorrow and I find some time to reassemble it. I’m pretty certain it was a simple timing slip. Will update when I get time to do so.

I do think getting my injectors popped and set will buy me 100,000 more miles. New job isn’t giving me much free time.
 
#23 ·
With the flag in the middle using the slotted holder, I believe mine is 13. With the flag moved approximately 1/4” below the mark, it is roughly 16 degrees.
My guess is that it’s at 8-9 degrees. I’m hoping that’s enough to cause the issue. Time will tell- I’ll update when I get it done.
 
#24 ·
Thats implying the engine timing pin itself is accurate. There is slop in the Engine TDC pin because the housing itself is adjustable and as well as gear lash. That itself can cause timing to be 2 or 3 degrees off.

Using the timings tools on the engine is not the most accurate way of setting timing, but it is more than accurate enough to get the truck running decent. And I've done it a few times.

Replace the lock washer with the Bosch part its a special hardened washer. clean the shaft AND the inside of the gear.... and the timing will never slip. I think the new spec is 144 on the gear. Highly recommend using the "Ames tool" to turn the pump shaft, big time saver. You dont "need" a barring tool... useing a crank bolt works fine. You will need a helper to hold the engine while you torque and break the pump nut free...
 
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#25 ·
I don’t remember, but I put a wear sleeve on the crank last time. Does it still use a stock seal? Or do I need one slightly larger.
Butchered the one I had. There was no way the plastic seal protector would go over the front of the crank.

If so, does anyone have a number?
 
#26 ·
Depends on if you used a Speedi-sleeve or a Cummins sleeve. The one made by Cummins is thicker and requires a different seal T my knowledge those seals are only sold as sets with a wear sleeve, not individually. Speedi-sleeves are thinner metal and you use a stock type seal with those. I can dig up the numbers for both, but it will be awhile.
 
#27 ·
I found an old email that says I had a 3802820 kit which included the wear sleeve.

The plastic seal protector would not fit over or onto the sleeve. Have a Cummins dealer in town.
 
#28 ·
A speedi-sleeve costs less as does a stock style seal. Haven't dug for the part number yet.
 
#29 ·
Kit came last night along with a seal driver. The seal driver is likely junk as it doesn’t fit into the back of the seal—- a bit too big and I’m afraid it will spread the seal some. Maybe it’s designed to make a tighter fit, but I’m passing.

I’ll include a pic showing the plastic easily fitting over the wear-sleeve. This should help a lot. I ordered two, haven’t decided if I’ll use both or not. My last one, I did.

This kit bears the same number 3802820 that I previously used.

Hope to get it together Sunday, weather permitting.

Second pic shows how I drew the seal in. It seemed to help keep it square and went easy. What you don’t see is the seal driver that came with the kit under the axle nut socket. I did have to reposition it as it went in..
Automotive tire Camera lens Finger Tire Wood

Tire Automotive tire Gas Machine Bumper
 
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#30 ·
Went together easily and plastic sleeve came out easily in re-useable shape. Put it together, fired it up and it runs away. ???Tomorrow’s another day. Didn’t see anything obvious but must have something holding the throttle open. Lots of slop in cruise control cable, so must be something easy.
 
#31 ·
Backed the throttle stop down and it idles fine, however white smoke and a miss is there at idle. I can’t hear it at 1500 rpm. So alanack6795 was probably right on the timing.

Check for obvious, bubbles in radiator, leaks, pulled valve covers to see if a valve seal had popped off, (can’t really see much). Cracked each fuel line at injectors- no change. A whiff of exhaust smells like oil or diesel, not like burning antifreeze that I have smelled before, however, I’ve never smelled it in a diesel, only gassers.

Anyways, I have an IR thermometer so I thought I would see what that said. I shot the top of each ear where the exhaust manifold bolts on. Cylinder #5 was about 100 degrees F hotter than the others. My operating temp of coolant was 150ish F. Each of the five cylinders was 150-160F but cylinder 5 was 270F.

Will a leaky/failing injector cause that much heat difference and likely be passing unburned fuel to the exhaust? (Fingers crossed)

If so, my next step is to pull that injector and see what it tells me?

Thanks so much in advance for the help.
 
#32 ·
Dropped the other injectors in, 7x11, way too much for hx35. Still white smoke but as it warmed up it cleared some. Idles clean. Took it for a ride, and after warming up, it was pretty clear unless I stepped on it much at all and it was black and 32psi boost in no time, Down the Highway 55-65 it was clear with motor up to operating temperature and okay, but slow down to 35-40 and it puffed white at stops.

I’m thinking head gasket in the near future??? Maybe enough internal compression to overcome the leak for now? I don’t have a leak down tester or a compressor.
 
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#33 ·
I forgot to add the one hotter exhaust port disappeared with the new injectors. Took it out again this afternoon and it was the same but I do smell a hint of oil burning. Going back to more recent work, I did install new valve springs and seals this past spring. They were the standard style.

When they get pushed up off the stem and seat, is it pretty visible?

EGT’s are normal but get hot fast with 7x11’s. I have the star wheel as tight as it goes. It helps but still belches pretty black if I’m on it at all.

I think I’m going to keep driving it locally until it tells me something conclusive. I drive ten miles to work and then back each day.

Will start monitoring consumption of oil and/or coolant.
 
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