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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a set of H11's (uninstalled) that came with my truck when I bought it used. My head gasket isn't blown and I intend to keep it like that. I called a local diesel shop in Miami to inquire about installing my H11's and they told me the proper way to install them is by removing the head, bottom tapping the block and then reinstalling the head with a new gasket. If that's the case, I'm on the fence about keeping the H11's.
Should I sell the H11's and buy some 425's. With that be enough clamping force once I install my 2nd gen S467 swap, stroker pump and bigger nozzles? Or should I go with 625's and not look back.
I'm obviously on a budget but I learned along time ago that being cheap is expensive...
 

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Ditch the H-11 or sell them ha then get the 625 custom age and be done. Replace them one at a time if you still have a good head gasket in place. My .02$
 

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I'm running the 425s and a second gen with 467. No issues at almost a year now, and I certainly don't putt around in this truck. Now when you put bigger compounds on and seek more that 6-700hp, I would definitely put in the 625s. But you are your own man (assumingly) and have your own right foot so do what you think is best. My 2 cents is that the 425s will perform fine for ya.
 

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Keep the H11's and bottom tap the block. You don't have to remove the head... I guarantee they wouldn't but they'd charge you for it! H11's do not stretch and can be re-used. The only issue with them is they will rust if they are around the water jacket, that when you would wanna coat it with anti-seize to repel the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Keep the H11's and bottom tap the block. You don't have to remove the head... I guarantee they wouldn't but they'd charge you for it! H11's do not stretch and can be re-used. The only issue with them is they will rust if they are around the water jacket, that when you would wanna coat it with anti-seize to repel the coolant.
How can the block be tapped while the head is still installed? All the taps I've ever used are short and stubby. How is it possible for the tap to pass through the head into the block? How do you clean out the threads before installing the studs?:confused013:
 

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a standard bottom tap with a tap socket and 3/8" ratchet will do ya just fine, go with the H-11's they are a superior product. I agree with Ol' Handshaker tho, they will rust up like crazy next to the water jacket and the studs outside the rocker box next to the exhaust manifold, some cold galvanize spray is a trick i was taught to ward off the rust in the hole and the stud, then just oil up with motor oil or ARP lube and get er done.
 

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So h11 can rust is that an issue with arp 425?
 

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they all will rust, the 425's are oxide coated so not so much, you get some exotic metals like the 625's and the h-11's and they cant oxide coat them because it effects the temper of the metal.

we get Cat bolts at work that are grade 12 oxide and oil and zinc plated, the plated bolts are 15-20% greater clamping load because of the lack of another heat cycle, the oxide and oil coated bolts will not rust and the oxide acts like anti seize then using in aluminum,cast, and stainless.
 

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So when I put in my 425 is the lube good enough protection?
 

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Why tap the block?? I never had to tap a thing to install my h11s.. I torqued them to 150lbs which was probably plenty or mayb to much too.. So far its been hold 45psi boost...
 
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