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Discussion Starter #1
I've been hearing from some of the guys I work with that after you start adding mods to your truck you should re-torque your head studs or change them out with new ones. I plan on an intake, exhaust and a predator, so would that constitute doing that. Thanks in advance
 

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no you shouldnt need them with those mods but studs are always a good idea. if you have the stock bolts in now they are bolts not studs and anything over 45 psi and you could be in the danger zone, but there are a lot of guys running more than 45 on stock bolts
 

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Is that the same for all the cummins? I have a 04.5 2500. What is the stock boost rating? And lastly how does the predator get its power...timing, boost...? Thanks for the quick reply
 

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Is that the same for all the cummins? I have a 04.5 2500. What is the stock boost rating? And lastly how does the predator get its power...timing, boost...? Thanks for the quick reply
Should be around 35, like with any programmer the main way is adding more fuel.
 

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Doing a proper torque / retorque on stock head bolts CAN hold some high HP..

I held right at 800 hp (65-70 psi boost) running [email protected] mph with them and no HG issues....BUT I did have o-rings...

On the stock MLS HG, you could pull each head bolt (ONE at a time, from the inside working your way out), get some ARP moly thread lube and apply... Take then all up to 100 ft. lbs.....Then in the same fashioin ( working your way from the middle to the outside in a circlular fashion) take them up in 5 ft. lb. incriments..You can safely take them up to 125 -145 ft. lbs...( Mine were taken to 150 )....

^^ This should hold quite a bit untill you get really serious and go with ARP 625's studs! This is what I have now..


David
 

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I know the around 625s are the best but what's the cons to the cheaper ones like 2000s. What's their limits and has anyone actually had them fail?
 

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I know the around 625s are the best but what's the cons to the cheaper ones like 2000s. What's their limits and has anyone actually had them fail?

2000's are fine as well... Several folks having Great luck with them!

Hear folks say that their ARP 2000's are holding 60-80 psi and up to 800...

Be realistic... What kind of power do you really expect to make? If it's 650 or less, just do the 2000's and do spend a whole lot...

OR

Do like I did and buy the 625's and never Look back no matter what you do... Your choice really...

David
 

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Doing a proper torque / retorque on stock head bolts CAN hold some high HP..

I held right at 800 hp (65-70 psi boost) running [email protected] mph with them and no HG issues....BUT I did have o-rings...

On the stock MLS HG, you could pull each head bolt (ONE at a time, from the inside working your way out), get some ARP moly thread lube and apply... Take then all up to 100 ft. lbs.....Then in the same fashioin ( working your way from the middle to the outside in a circlular fashion) take them up in 5 ft. lb. incriments..You can safely take them up to 125 -145 ft. lbs...( Mine were taken to 150 )....

^^ This should hold quite a bit untill you get really serious and go with ARP 625's studs! This is what I have now..


David


So you torqued your stock head bolts to 150? Would it be ok to take the arp 2000s to the same?
 

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If u don't have a torque wrench u can always set your air compressor to the psi u want your studs torqued to and use your impact gun 150 psi = 150 ft/lbs I always use red lick tight for to thread hole lube when I am really laying her down
 

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start at 1 newton meters and go all the way to 542.3 newton meters one meter at a time it takes wile but well worth it
:hehe::rof yeah only about one month to do that.
 

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Empire State Diesel has head studs now for the Cummins I hear that are stinger than 625s but cheaper as well.
I googled it lol I think you ment

Empire Diesel :confused013:
 
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