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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so the passenger side hub has about and 1/8" of play all the way around and the ABS and interior brake light is lit. A bad bearing would cause the ABS light to come on correct? Also, i was reading a thread on here and someone said that you cant just replace the wheel bearings on these trucks and that you gotta replace the whole hub assembly. and that you can only get an assembly through dodge....that true? i called my local dealer and theyre $400 a piece!! would it be wise for me to replace the drivers side too? i mean are these trucks notorious for this prob? Ive got about 86k on the truck. any feedback would be much appreciated
 

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def get timkin bearing they are one of the best i had to replace them on my dually when i did the rotors and brakes cause the garage screwed them up when they took off the rotors, plus im pretty sure it is lifetime replacement with Timkin bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
cool thanks guys ill order that right now. probably do the driver side too huh? thats a pretty simple install?
 

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Pretty simple, just take off and replace. There was a guy here who said you can just take off the ABS sensor and fill it with grease and wont have to replace the hub assembly, but thats if your hubs are still ok. After you pull the rotor, you loosen the 4 bolts that hold the hub in place and place an extension against the bolt and against the arm and turn your steering wheel in the opposite direction, it will help to loosen the hub. I replaced mine cause i thought they were bad but it turned out my ujoints were toast. Those werent fun though.
 

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I just cancelled my order. $130 for shipping to Hawaii. :banghead: I was going to ship it free to my mom then have her ship it to me in a flat rate box for $15 to me. But now they tell me the hubs are out of stock.
 

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I got mine from NAPA, $230 apiece. Do you guys have a NAPA on the island?
 

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Yeah. Napa said they were $350. They had to order them so it wouldn't be any faster anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the u-joints wouldnt cause play in the hud though right? what else should i replace while i got all that s#!t torn apart? i know this stuff is expensive, but id rather rip it all apart once and be done with it... brake job too. hawks, or those green ones?
 

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I just ordered from Discount Auto Parts – PartsGeek.com and got 3% off and $25 overnight shipping for a total of just under $300. Hopefully they don't email me and tell me they need more money for shipping to Hawaii. I can't wait to get back to the mainland.
 

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My wheel bearings lasted a whole 20000KM or 12500M now that sucks. Both are lose but no noise yet. Going to get dealer to replace once more under warranty then get some free spin hubs.:banghead:
 

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I bought my timkens from carpartsauto.com. You can call them at 800-830-2885 ask for Rick....good guy to deal with. Hope this helps.

Jim
 

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You also need a special 12-point socket to take them off - I think 14mm? Plus the big socket for the end of the axle shaft. While you are in there, replace the u-joints! Otherwise, you have to tear it all down again WHEN the u-joints go out. And they will...

Otherwise, real basic job. Takes 2 hours for the first one and 1 for the second. Last thing, you will need a press to reinstall the wheel studs. A Haynes manual will show you exactly what is needed.

Good luck,

Rob G
 

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you can also take the studs, put them through, put the closed end of a box wrench over the threaded part and put the lug on, use the lug to pull the stud through. Just be carefull
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the help fellas. I heard the u-joints are a pain to replace. What's the big deal about those? And I should probably replace the drivers side stuff too huh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
does anybody have a link to where i can find the axle u-joints for this thing. they got greasable ones correct?:confused013:
 

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if you go to 3rd gen tech articles on this forum there is a sticky on the top of how to replace these hubs. i was just going to paste a link but couldn't figure out how.
 

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I just got home from changing mine out. It took from 9 this morning until about 6 tonight. But most of that time was driving around to get the big socket for the end of the axle and going back and forth twice to the guy with the press. If we had everything we needed, it would of taken maybe 2 hours at most.
 

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You also need a special 12-point socket to take them off - I think 14mm? Plus the big socket for the end of the axle shaft. While you are in there, replace the u-joints! Otherwise, you have to tear it all down again WHEN the u-joints go out. And they will...

Otherwise, real basic job. Takes 2 hours for the first one and 1 for the second. Last thing, you will need a press to reinstall the wheel studs. A Haynes manual will show you exactly what is needed.

Good luck,

Rob G
Special 12-point socket? and why did you take the wheel studs out? mine just came as a whole assybly just bolt and go
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
just got the new timkins, and they are bolt and go, with the studs already pressed in. im havin a really hard time finding greasable u-joints for the front axle. ive heard talk about the quality of the spicer u-joints but theyre not greasable... any opinions? or maybe a link as to where i can get a good set of greasable joints?
 
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