[CPrince09]

probably fuel pump then maybe studs

 

[-lenny-]

Is there any real benefit to running a plugged or shimmed fuel rail?

 

[CO6.7Cummins]

I'd say:

1) Upgraded clutch
2) Airdog or Fass fuel system
3) Aftermarket intake horn

The next part depends how much power you want to make -

4) External wastegate if keeping the stock turbo

If using aftermarket turbo, then -

5) ARP 625 head studs
6) Bigger CP3 (I'd recommend a Stage 2 or 3, depending on what your power goal is)
7) Bigger injectors, again, dependent on how much power you want

 

[WouldRatherbeCummin]

How much power is a lift pump and intake horn good for with my set up??

 

[prerunr59]

I wouldnt plug the rail

 

[CO6.7Cummins]

The lift pump doesn't really add power in a concrete amount . . . it just allows you to fuel the bigger tunes. Plus, it filters the fuel better so its a good peace of mind investment.

The intake horn, from what I've heard from WCC and BOD is good for 40-50 hp.

I'd start simple. You'll need an upgraded clutch first. There, get the fuel you need for the bigger H&S tunes by upgrading your lift pump.

From there, get more air and fuel. There are dozens of ways to do that. Ranging from a grid heater delete, intake horn, boost tube, aftermarket intercooler and aftermarket turbo, to a higher flowing CP3 and bigger injector nozzles.

What's your HP goal?

 

[ShaneMSnyder]

CLUTCH DUDE!! Then the lift pump and intake manifold and a wastegate.

 

[jms_shepherd]

I wouldnt plug the rail

:agree2: You will blow $hit up that way. I.E your injectors

 

[CO6.7Cummins]

:agree2: You will blow $hit up that way. I.E your injectors

I think he's confused about a plugged vs. shimmed fuel valve. Shimming is a good thing.

 

[Army_Cowboy]

:doh: I dont even have my truck yet and I have a huge list of mods I am going to do. When my wife finds out what I am going to do or what I have down she is going to :spank:.

Listen to these guys they will not steer you wrong, this is the best place on the net to ask. You can also give some of the Vendors a call as well. I know RSD and 8lug truck gear will answer any question you have.

 

[CO6.7Cummins]

:doh: I dont even have my truck yet and I have a huge list of mods I am going to do. When my wife finds out what I am going to do or what I have down she is going to :spank:.

Listen to these guys they will not steer you wrong, this is the best place on the net to ask. You can also give some of the Vendors a call as well. I know RSD and 8lug truck gear will answer any question you have.

:hehe: We all have that problem. Now, when my fiance asks me WHY I NEED 700hp, I just tell her, "Babe, I'll get better fuel mileage and it'll save us money." It seems to work for now. Until she comes on CF and reads what's really up lol.

 

[WouldRatherbeCummin]

:agree2: You will blow $hit up that way. I.E your injectors

I got the shim kit already but I was gonna plug it just because it's easier, I would be happy with 500-550 hp

 

[2500MegaDiesel]

AIR AIR and more AIR. CAI you have, next is an intake and grid heater delete, maybe even turbo or turbos. After that a waste gate, then fuel the crap out of it (pumps and injectors) and tell us what breaks.

Doing AIR first gives you the lower EGT and cleaner burns right up front. As soon as you start to smoke with your fuel mods and tunes, you know you need more AIR. Always remember that you are trying to get somewhere around 22 pounds of air in your engine for every pound of fuel. At WOT you may be somewhere around 7 mpg so you are burning a pound of fuel per mile and at WOT that is equivalent to about two pounds per minute. To get the 44 pounds of air you need you have to put somewhere near 1200 SCFM through the engine. I had a Daytona Race Carb from Ford's engineering lab on my Mustang and it was an 1135 CFM Carb to feed a 600+ SHP engine. Air fuel ratio for a gasser is best at 15.

That is why I always emphasize AIR before anything else.

 

[2500MegaDiesel]

:agree2: You will blow $hit up that way. I.E your injectors

I have a question? What is the max Rail Pressure before the relief valve opens stock? What is the max rail pressure before the relief valve opens shimmed? What is the max rail pressure an unmodified CP3 can deliver?

 

[CO6.7Cummins]

AIR AIR and more AIR. CAI you have, next is an intake and grid heater delete, maybe even turbo or turbos. After that a waste gate, then fuel the crap out of it (pumps and injectors) and tell us what breaks.

Doing AIR first gives you the lower EGT and cleaner burns right up front. As soon as you start to smoke with your fuel mods and tunes, you know you need more AIR. Always remember that you are trying to get somewhere around 22 pounds of air in your engine for every pound of fuel. At WOT you may be somewhere around 7 mpg so you are burning a pound of fuel per mile and at WOT that is equivalent to about two pounds per minute. To get the 44 pounds of air you need you have to put somewhere near 1200 SCFM through the engine. I had a Daytona Race Carb from Ford's engineering lab on my Mustang and it was an 1135 CFM Carb to feed a 600+ SHP engine. Air fuel ratio for a gasser is best at 15.

That is why I always emphasize AIR before anything else.

I would agree with that. But it's also important to match the air and fuel upgrades. This is irrelevant when talking about upgrading the intake, intercooler, boost tube, intake horn and deleting the grid heater. That will help any setup. But it becomes really important with the turbo and CP3 and injectors.

They need to be matched carefully to #1 produce the desired power and #2 to keep EGT's and smoke in check.

 

[WouldRatherbeCummin]

I don't think I'll replace the clutch untill I wear out the stock one.... Which Is doing pretty good with 60k on the truck which I bought new and has had a programmer sence almost day one. When I do get a clutch it will be a south bend dual disk.