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i just bought myself a 1994 dodge 6 months ago. i want to hop it up a bit. so my question is...if you had $1000 to spend what would you spend it on other than trans, exhaust, and intake. please give me some ideas.
 

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Last month in dieselpower mag (I think) there was an article on how to build up a 12v with limited funds. They asked a number of builders what they would do with the money.

Try looking this article up on their page.
 

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Last month in dieselpower mag (I think) there was an article on how to build up a 12v with limited funds. They asked a number of builders what they would do with the money.

Try looking this article up on their page.
The first gen 12 valve they have is a completely different animal and doesn't apply. And they did a poor job of getting power out of there 2nd gen IMO
 

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If it were a 96+ I'd say rpm, air, then fuel, but since its a 94 I'll say a 2095 plug, free mods, 4kgsk (with springs) find a good deal on 215 or larger injectors (Bosch 370s are a waste IMO, New Era 370s are decent) Then air (turbo) and timing
 

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Ya, I read one of diesel power's budget 2nd gen 12v articles, I thought it was stupid. In my opinion i wouldn't mess around with a 4k because you need lots of timing to get it to run right on top, and for lots of timing you need studs and HD valve springs, which are expensive and don't do anything for you performance wise, plus the auto won't rap that high without modified shift points.
Well, since you can't fit a turbo into a $1000 budget, you gotta just get the most out of the stock one.

Assuming you already have gauges, here's what i would do for a grand:

3k GSK
3000RPM Governor Spring Kit 94-98 Dodge 5.9L 12 Valve Cummins Diesel 3K GSK Peak Diesel
$110

Dynomite Diesel 50hp injectors
eBay Motors: Dynomite Diesel Injectors 1994-1998 Dodge Cummins (item 140238739255 end time Jul-04-08 10:35:18 PDT)
$474 w/ free shipping

Dynomite Diesel delivery valves ($260 off DDP's websight)

Home ground #0 plate- $0

Either a boost elbow set at 35lbs, or just blocked wastegate

=$844 and one HUGE jump up in power!!!!!!!!! You might end still end up with way too much fuel, if that was the case, I would just buy a #10 plate off good old ebay for $65
 

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I forgot to explain myself last time, so here's my thoughts on it: (not a rant, just an explaination) I'd like to here others criticisms and opinions

Timing is a good idea, 15-16* on stock HG is usually all it will hold.

A 4k gsk costs the same as a 3k, a set of valve springs cost $55. The 4k certainly won't cost you any power (the 4.5, 5k, etc cost drivability) Might as well have it even if you only want to use 200rpm of it. Remember the governor starts to defuel well before the rpms stop increasing.

The 2095 plug costs $15. 215 injectors have been used in over 500hp builds, 180s have made 450hp, and both can be picked up used for cheap. While delivery valves might help, they are not the most cost effective gain. The common build order is fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, a little bit of air, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, and some more air. This leads to a lot of smoke (I don't like and give diesels a bad name which will bite us later) and excessive EGTs (also don't like, people often get mad about it because they can't use all there fuel, but whos fault is that?)

The fuel plate and AFC can be modified at home for free. But DDP also sells a budjet fuel plate kit that includes a boost elbow, plate, and washer for the AFC. Well worth it IMO Dynomite Diesel - Budget Fuel Plate The Garage Sale Dodge

Adding fuel is cheap, but once you spend money on fuel first the next upgrade is always air. If you spend a little on fuel and some on air, you will be able to get a more balanced combo.
If you save some money on fuel you'll have enough left to get a larger wheel for your hx35 or even find a cheap hx40 (kinda like the 370s of turbos, cheap and kinda crappy but effective)


Being able to modify things yourself, and tune your truck well will save a lot of money and make lots of extra power.
 

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studs and save the rest for turbo. you can do timming and govenor springs for free. and grid your fuel plate for free also.
 

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I forgot to explain myself last time, so here's my thoughts on it: (not a rant, just an explaination) I'd like to here others criticisms and opinions

Timing is a good idea, 15-16* on stock HG is usually all it will hold.

A 4k gsk costs the same as a 3k, a set of valve springs cost $55. The 4k certainly won't cost you any power (the 4.5, 5k, etc cost drivability) Might as well have it even if you only want to use 200rpm of it. Remember the governor starts to defuel well before the rpms stop increasing.

The 2095 plug costs $15. 215 injectors have been used in over 500hp builds, 180s have made 450hp, and both can be picked up used for cheap. While delivery valves might help, they are not the most cost effective gain. The common build order is fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, a little bit of air, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, fuel, and some more air. This leads to a lot of smoke (I don't like and give diesels a bad name which will bite us later) and excessive EGTs (also don't like, people often get mad about it because they can't use all there fuel, but whos fault is that?)

The fuel plate and AFC can be modified at home for free. But DDP also sells a budjet fuel plate kit that includes a boost elbow, plate, and washer for the AFC. Well worth it IMO Dynomite Diesel - Budget Fuel Plate The Garage Sale Dodge

Adding fuel is cheap, but once you spend money on fuel first the next upgrade is always air. If you spend a little on fuel and some on air, you will be able to get a more balanced combo.
If you save some money on fuel you'll have enough left to get a larger wheel for your hx35 or even find a cheap hx40 (kinda like the 370s of turbos, cheap and kinda crappy but effective)


Being able to modify things yourself, and tune your truck well will save a lot of money and make lots of extra power.
AGREED.... all fuel a little air gets old pretty quick.
 

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Maybe he doesn't want twins or 30* of timing? Then his cylinder pressures, aren't anything more than stock bolts can handle.

Plus O-rings are cheaper and better. Install them with new bolts torqued a little extra and he'd be good for 25* and 75 psi
 
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