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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok ok, im sure someone kows an EASIER way to adjust idle? i turned up my pump today. i rotated the cone so it was all the way towards the back, and pulled the collar of my fuel screw and turned it in about 3-4 turns i think. i get a decent cloud of smoke from my single stack when i romp on it, but other than that it seems to burn pretty clean, just a little haze under normal driving condition. my turbo is WAY louder now. still lacking soem low end spool though. anyways, how do i adjust my idle back down???? i think i know how, i just cant figure out how to get to it.

:peelout
 

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I actually use a 1/4 inch wrench. I put the box end over the end of the screw and leverage against it and turn; my screw requires very little torque to move, I don't have to do it hard enough to damage threads. I can turn it all the way in or out in a few minutes, but I suspect that everybody doesn't have the clean threads that I lucked out on.

The only way I've figured out to tighten or loosen the jam nut is by screwdriver-and-hammer method, though.

I have small fingers and actually adjusted it on the side of the freeway once with my fingers. Other than a few burns it worked well enough...

You may very well be in melt-down territory now. Get a pyro post-haste if you don't have one already.
 

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I bent a wrench at the box end 90 degrees for the jam nut and I use a small vise grip on the very end of the screw to turn it. It messe up the tip threads a little but thats the way it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
kool, ill try that. why not just grind down the threads on the throttle side? did i turn the full power screw? thats the one with the metal collar right? i think im going to back that one out a little until i hate a pyro. it really is an insane power difference. i just cant afford 150 bucks for a pyro right now... crap... the economy suuuucks.

really though, the new power is great. ive heard of like 70hp on those adjustments alone, but thats with an automatic, so i must be putting down more poer since i have a getrag. i noticed my stack does get a good bit hotter. before, after along drive i could touch my stack and not get burned, now its hot to the touch. my turbo makes a real kool fluttering sound too! haha.
 

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Did the other pump adjustments raise the idle speed? My idle speed has seemed low since I got this thing a couple of months ago. Now on the first hot day it was idling even lower after running a while, to the point that it stalled once. I've been thinking about doing the pump mods and if this will raise the idle somewhat it'll kill two birds with one stone.
Steve g
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah, i turned the cone and de-collared the fuel screw and turned it in a little, and then today i back it out a little too because i think it might have been to much to risk sense i dont have guages. now its just right and safe i think. i dont get on it for more than a couple seconds so i dont fear hurting anything. the two adjustments broght me up to 1200-1400 RPM's im guessing by sound and the speed i moved at idle in gear, im back close to 700 now (but i dont have a tach, so thats just a guess)

the idel screw was actuall a piece of cake. i just used a wood chisel to get the nut to turn, and rolled the linkage out of the way (with the engine turned off) and turned the screw with my fingers. i let PB Blaster soak on it over night too, so that helped im sure. now its cake to adjust.
 

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Glad you turned it back down. A friend of mine bought a 93 dually a couple of years ago. It idled around 1250 RPM. On a WOT run the pryo was showing 1200 degrees. That was post turbo, add around 300 degrees to that for a pre turbo reading. :eek:

We turned his fuel screw out 4 turns to bring the idle back to 750 RPM. So this might give you an idea of where you were at with that screw turned.
 
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