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Discussion Starter #1
I need to buy a new shank for my existing set up (reese load eq hitch with round bar) The existing shank is does not drop enoght for the CTD 2500's. I bought a 8" drop but when I tested it in the reciever the bottom of the bar was to close to the ground. I have a feeling the first service station I go into I will bottom out! I took a measurement to the inside of the hitch (top of ball) on the trailer from grade and got aprox 19". The receiver center of the truck is about 22". By the time you factor in the head size on the hitch (distance from center of receiver to top of ball on head is about 3") I should need at leaste 6-7" drop. I think the next size down for shanks is a 5". Not sure what to do .. I dont think I can tow with the shank hanging that low !! any thoughts...(besides getting a 5er :thud:)
 

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What trailer are you towing? I have a5inch drop and its about right for my truck and it sits up pretty decent.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
30' Pilgrim,
Is your a reese system w/d hitch, wonder if the brand makes a diff.?
 

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Mine is a Reese system with weight dist, and I use a 5 inch drop on a pin adjustable shank, and tow a 27 ft Wilderness (with my ol lady's 4000 pounds of junk) for a total hitch weight of about 1400 lbs. And total draw weight of about 11800 lbs with No problems.
 

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I don't use a W/D on anything so that may make a difference. but my drop hitch is a 5inch reese....
 

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If I'm figuring right, you should still have 14 inches under the 8 " drop shank. That should be plenty of road clearance. Assuming an adjustable shank and the fact that the top of the ball needs to be 3 inches below the receiver centerline, an option might be to set up the hitch heighth and find a friend with a metal cutting bandsaw to cut off the bottom of the shank for road clearance.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:thud: Thank for the heads up Bill. Turns out after scratching my head for a while I measured the shank and it is a 12" not an 8". Guy at the store gave me the wrong one !! I guess I will have to go back and switch. That would explain a lot of my troubles. From what I gather from everyone is that a 5" adjustable would be just fin right?, I should maybe get that instead of the 8"?
 

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The 5" in not enough on my 2500 4x4. The hitch ball sits up pretty high because of the depth of the w/d head...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I was right to go with the 8" then ?? The W/D head is what is so confusing. the holes for he head have to be about 2" lower than what you need the actual drop to be is what I figured. My trailer is out of town so it makes it hard to measure in place. I have to get a shank first then go to my trailer. This is why I am trying to get as close as possible so I don't have to make so many trips. I just got this truck in March :thumbsup and only took it out to my trailer once to measure. I can't wait to hook'r up and GO !! :peelout.
 

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I did the same thing. The 5 was too short so I got a 12. It was WAY to close to the ground. I ended up having a machinist buddy of mine bore 2 holes in it and then cutting off the extra. Works great now. I would have exchanged it but it was a 250 mile round trip to do it.

Try the 8 and if it still is not right cutr the tail off the 12

Chris
 

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I have the same problem because we have about 5-6 different bumper pull trailers out here at a time. I purchased a B&W hitch. It has 3 balls...lol....but rotates,hides,and has a 16" adjustability i believe. Pricey, but worth every penny.
 
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