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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys. been awhile since i have been on here. im kinda dissapointed with my towing ability.

my 02 auto last year pulled the 4 place open snowmobile trailer with 4 sleds up the mountain ok. not as good as our 6.7's but i also have no where near the power they do. anyways, i had 285's on it and the tranny would get up to about 210 degrees pulling the mountain. this year with 315's, the tranny is cooking to 230-240 degrees! i have 161,000 with stock auto. should i just get some 285 for the winter? i cant afford a hole new tranny at this time. or should i get a single dsk billet TC?

would replacin the TC make my tranny run cooler? i talked to a guy who said the reason im getting so hot is cuz the stock TC is junk, which i know is junk, but will a different one run my tranny cooler?

i dont know which brand it is, but he said he could get me a single billet TC for $600. i know it wont be the best out there, but its cheaper than new tires. and in case my input shaft breaks, i wont be breaking a $1000 TC only a $600. i would probably upgrade to a comp box to to give me some more go. maybe a valve body too. i just dont have the money for the whole tranny right now so would a $600 TC cooler my tranny? or should i just get smaller tires?
 

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PA Diesel Fuel Mafia-Don
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If you're not ready to build a transmission then I would recommend getting some smaller winter tires. Plus to cool your transmission you will need a beefier trans cooler and a deep pan, not a TC.
 

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I have an ultra high capacity tranny pan I forget what name bc it came with the truck when I bought it but between that and my big tranny cooler my tranny temp never gets above 180 and usually it's actually alittle too cool at 140f. I cannot say if a new converter will help I really don't know much about them. But I do know u r suppose to replace your tranny fluid whenever it gets that hot.
Sorry I can't b of more help ; good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i am going to use a 2 place trailer this weekend and see how it goes. i will only be pulling half the weight this way. i want to buy a 3 or 4 place enclosed trailer but wnt to wait till i have my pickup built to pull it.
 

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well ideal is 175, did you change ur oil lately maybe ur past due. but if you do everything right it should drop alot but it wont help if the damage is already done.
 

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well I would look for a big gasser pick up w/ an auto. some buses that are automatic. Actually they arent that expensive from jc whitney.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks man. i changed my filter and oil in november, as i do every year since this pickup was new. going down high way its about 130 degrees normally. putting arounf town it get to 150. up the mountain like i said with 4 place trailer and sleds (3500-4000 pounds) and my 315 it was up to 230-240. i would be happy if i did a cooler and or deep dish pan and it stayed around 200. then i can keep the 315's. per4mance innovations has a cooler for like $220 or somehting they say is 300% better cooling.... i dont know tho
 

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right now it seems like you have 0 cooling so 0x300=0 that sounds about right.
no need to thank me just hit the thanks button haha jk.
hope it works out and take it ez. One nice thing about my edge tuner is it tells you if your trans is slipping (never happened for me) I wish you well w/ your truck but I wouldnt tow anything too heavy or too far.

LADIES AND GENTLEMEN,

MR CONWAY TWITTY
 

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Have you checked the rad externally lately for any hinderance to airflow also between the cooler and AC evap.. Once I pulled my rad out and cleaned between all the coolers I stopped having any trans heating issues. A good low stall TC will lower your temps by 10 to 20f climbing slow long grades (also felt like 30% more hp was getting to the ground and could climb effortlessly) but will increase temps by 10 to 20f in stop and go traffic. That is what I found going to a low stall Goerend TC. To really keep your trans cool it is best to keep the TC locked as much as possible above 1500 rpm. A shift kit or valve body and a lockup switch will allow lockup in second, that would end any heating problems if you climb that fast. Some trans builders can give you lockup in first but I think that requires a rebuild but maybe worth checking out.
 

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Have you checked the rad externally lately for any hinderance to airflow also between the cooler and AC evap.. Once I pulled my rad out and cleaned between all the coolers I stopped having any trans heating issues. A good low stall TC will lower your temps by 10 to 20f climbing slow long grades (also felt like 30% more hp was getting to the ground and could climb effortlessly) but will increase temps by 10 to 20f in stop and go traffic. That is what I found going to a low stall Goerend TC. To really keep your trans cool it is best to keep the TC locked as much as possible above 1500 rpm. A shift kit or valve body and a lockup switch will allow lockup in second, that would end any heating problems if you climb that fast. Some trans builders can give you lockup in first but I think that requires a rebuild but maybe worth checking out.
Best advice so far...make sure the rest of trans is adjusted properly... Bands etc, a good convertor and a valve body will do wonders, make sure is all clean and lock the convertor to prevent un necessary slippage. And lastly, tow in a decent rpm range, don't bog it in over drive, keep the rpm up and your fan wil pull air better., you will be surprised at the amount of crap stuck on your radiator from your vent can..
 
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