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2004.5 2500 4x4 automatic 5.9 short bed smarty so6 pod
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Discussion Starter #1
Alright I bought the Hamilton 178/208 cam kit with valve springs and rods and when I do the cam I’m going to pull the head and do 100% over injectors, studs , #103 springs. Should I also replace all the valves ? And what machine work should I have done to it ? At the moment the head is 100% stock so any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance
 

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Why are you pulling the head? Blown head gasket or other issues? If not, I’d leave it on.
if having to remove, I’d 1st magma flux for cracks, then mill flat & resurface the valves. Check valve stem clearance. Install 11 tapered plugs where the coolant plugs are under the valve cover.
Might want to pocket port especially the intake side due to restrictions. Can easily port & polish the exhaust ports & reach some of the intake ports, just stay clear of the roof & floor. Gets pretty close to coolant jackets.
 

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2004.5 2500 4x4 automatic 5.9 short bed smarty so6 pod
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Why are you pulling the head? Blown head gasket or other issues? If not, I’d leave it on.
if having to remove, I’d 1st magma flux for cracks, then mill flat & resurface the valves. Check valve stem clearance. Install 11 tapered plugs where the coolant plugs are under the valve cover.
Might want to pocket port especially the intake side due to restrictions. Can easily port & polish the exhaust ports & reach some of the intake ports, just stay clear of the roof & floor. Gets pretty close to coolant jackets.
Im pulling the head so I can bottom tap for studs and to do the springs ,pushrods , injectors , and cam just to make things easier for me to work on and I figure I take the head in to have it decked and now the coolant plugs tapped so I’m just trying to get what I can for performance out of what I have
 

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If the head gasket is good, I’d say your causing yourself more work than needed. All of this can be achieved with the head on except for tapping the coolant ports.
I did not blind tap when I installed studs. Do 1 at a time. If still taking the head off, do not install injectors until it is back on.
Also check your rocker arma for gauling. Can be upgraded to the 6.7’s
 

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2004.5 2500 4x4 automatic 5.9 short bed smarty so6 pod
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Discussion Starter #5
If the head gasket is good, I’d say your causing yourself more work than needed. All of this can be achieved with the head on except for tapping the coolant ports.
I did not blind tap when I installed studs. Do 1 at a time. If still taking the head off, do not install injectors until it is back on.
Also check your rocker arma for gauling. Can be upgraded to the 6.7’s
Thank you for all the good info I guess I have a couple things to think about now . And what does upgrading to 6.7 rocker arm assembly get you or do ?
 

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Original 5.9 rockers tend to gaul meaning they don’t move freely & have sticky spots. The 6.7 rocker arms were revised by placing a groove in the bushing for improved oiling to prevent this from happening.
If yours arnt bad, some do a light hone to clean them up but risk increasing clearances by doing so.
 

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Check for recession in the head from the valves, this is how much the valves wear themselves back into the head. You can correct it when recutting valve seats. Not sure what the tolerances are, but I've heard so much recession can risk you needing another head. Something to consider since it sounds like you'll be increasing cylinder pressure significantly in the future
 

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Also, it depends on if you need to replace your valves. They have wear tolerances and your machinist should definitely take his time to check them. They are inconel, so stock valves are pretty stout and upgrading really isn't necessary.

I also forgot to mention, if you end up recutting valve seats (wether or not you have recession), it's likely you'll need to have the head decked or at least checked for flatness. If the head is getting all this other valve work done, you might as well be diligent and make everything sweet again before it goes back in the truck.
 

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Avoid pulling the head unless you need to, the factory seal is the best you will get. Like these guys said if you're set on pulling just get a crack check done, add thread in plugs on top, a good valve job done and add your springs. Not much else needed. I'm shocked to see the inside of those valves damn that's ugly from the factory. I've got my head on the bench ready to go back on I think I might take it back apart and touch up those areas wtf.
 
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