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Discussion Starter #1
I just killed the serpentine belt on my truck on the way home from base. When it let go it broke the cable that runs directly above the idle pulley and below the radiator hose. What does that cable run? I started the truck up with that wire broken and it sounded terrible.
 

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If it’s the one that is clamped to the block than it is everything going to the passenger side of the engine.


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But the cable you pointed out looks like it’s the one that goes to grid heater relay


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Discussion Starter #5
Passenger side is where they connect in just top the side of the passenger battery. It even melted my positive post.
 

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Kind of strange tho because I don’t even have my grid heater plugged in. Maybe you cut something else too?


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Discussion Starter #8
It put on the check engine light, shop when I got it started to bring it home I stopped by O'reillys and picked up some 6 gauge cable and connectors and had then scan the codes. It's showing gride block heater amp low, fuel pressure high, rail pressure high, cam position sensor pending, can position sensor error.

Any chance those codes would all be thrown by losing these two cables?
 

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I live in socal and removed those cables about a year ago. Never had a check engine light or code go off. But the passenger battery was still in place.

3 months ago I removed the pass. battery all together and the terminals where the wires plugged into. There are 2 wires to each terminal that I zip ties out of the way. After that I got codes:
P0541 - Intake air heater relay 1 low
P2607 - Low voltage at #2 intake air heater relay

Also the check engine light stays on. Although I've tried clearing it with a smarty S06.

What you are experiencing "fuel pressure high, rail pressure high, cam position sensor pending, can position sensor error. "
Seems like something else not caused by those 2 wires (8 in the diagram below)

1593108532213.png

Here are the plugs I removed that caused my problem with the CEL

907472
 

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And here are the "plugs" i zip tied out of the way.

Not to high-jack your thread but maybe someone can tell me how to get rid of my CEL. I did my searches and came up with nothing.
907475
 

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It put on the check engine light, shop when I got it started to bring it home I stopped by O'reillys and picked up some 6 gauge cable and connectors and had then scan the codes. It's showing gride block heater amp low, fuel pressure high, rail pressure high, cam position sensor pending, can position sensor error.

Any chance those codes would all be thrown by losing these two cables?

Run a self diagnostic as shown in this video :55-1:15 and share what P codes come up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, I should have clarified, that when these two wires were taken out they shorted hard enough to partially melt the positive terminal on the passenger side battery.
 

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I see now. In your first post you talked about the cable that I have red arrows pointing at. But the photos that have your fingers is the wire that I'm pointing at in blue.
907483


If it is that you shorted out the wire that I have with RED arrows(held by screws called out by #1&#2 below). It might be very messy to fix. From the diagram I found below that's an ECM wire......past my knowledge on how to help.
Hopefully a more capable member can help you out.

907485
 

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It put on the check engine light, shop when I got it started to bring it home I stopped by O'reillys and picked up some 6 gauge cable and connectors and had then scan the codes. It's showing gride block heater amp low, fuel pressure high, rail pressure high, cam position sensor pending, can position sensor error.

Any chance those codes would all be thrown by losing these two cables?
All of these sensors connect to the left hand side of the ECM. I know a more knowledgeable member will help but it sounds like that whole bank of wires are damaged.


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Discussion Starter #15
Hopefully this is my wrap up post on this subject. I bought some 6 gauge wire and made a replacement cable for the grid heater. The only code left is the cam shaft position sensor. It's also responsible for the rough starts. It should be in by tomorrow. That sensor was throughly destroyed by the belt as well.

Thank you all for the help.
 

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are you mixing up the camshaft sensor and crank sensor? The camshaft sensor sits under the CP3. The wiring for it could be damaged, but it'd be real hard for the sensor itself to be damaged by a broken belt.
 
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