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Finished installing my gauges and they all seem to be working.


Steering column for Oil Press because it's most important and Boost because it's most active.
Transmission Temp, Pyrometer, and Air Pressure on the dash. The steering pod is a tiny bit high because I wanted to make sure all was well before screwing it down.

Since the Boost gauge is doing nothing while I'm slowing down I'm thinking I should use it to display the exhaust back pressure. At first I was planning ways to plumb the pressure to the sending unit, but post on another site made me realize it would be better to add a pressure sending unit to the PRXB test port (with a section of stainless line to keep it cool of course). Then I just need some kind of 3 channel relay that would switch between signal wires whenever the EB engages.
 

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Happy Camper
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Dave, great picture, congrats man, cheers

Polaris425, thx for sharing, looks like you didn't have much trouble.
 
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Replaced the stock blown speakers with Infiniti 100w speakers. I swear I lost some bass with these compared to stock but at least it doesn’t rattle now.
I don’t know how I never saw this maybe because I never sit on the psgr side but I noticed that the driver side doesn’t have the glass scrubber wiper thing in the door. What’s that part called? I’m go get one.
And wondering if anyone can check out my leaky extension housing thread with some input.
Thx

1C8C0DBA-DB0B-4A68-A267-64550664131B.jpeg ACCCF863-4361-4295-BE48-735228D58D50.jpeg
 

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Here's my fix to avoid getting an air, or coolant leak. After chasing a leak for many, many months it turned out to be the small overflow tube from the radiator to the tank. IT WAS HARD TO FIND SINCE IT ONLY DID IT WHEN COOLANT WAS GOING TO OR FROM THE RADIATOR, and there was a small hole from rubbing that blew out. I used -4 AN fittings, and a SS line from a Nitrous bottle to seal things up.
 

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Installed grid heater delete, and new tube. I'll have to post a picture later as, I forgot to take one when I put it on. I actually found a pretty decent deal on the tube, so with the tube and the block, I still paid about the same as what replacing the dead heater grid would have cost me. I live in central Alabama so, we don't have too many REALLY cold temps here. When we do it's usually just a few days at a time. So that's why I went with this option.

 

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Installed grid heater delete, and new tube. I'll have to post a picture later as, I forgot to take one when I put it on. I actually found a pretty decent deal on the tube, so with the tube and the block, I still paid about the same as what replacing the dead heater grid would have cost me. I live in central Alabama so, we don't have too many REALLY cold temps here. When we do it's usually just a few days at a time. So that's why I went with this option.

They say it doesn't make any difference, but I remember when I did mine and thought it did. Faster spool up as well.
 

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Wanted to mention that when I put my rebuilt front driveshaft in last year I sought out some better hardware on the axle end. I never had a problem with the factory internal torx bolts but really hated dealing with them. I found some ARP 12pt bolts that fit the bill.

edit* bad link

McMaster Carr pn 93700A218

ARP_stock.jpg
ARP.jpg
 

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Over Christmas weekend I got a bit done since we stayed home.

-Furd manual fan clutch, adapter, OE bearing installed
-New crank and cam sensors installed

Next is to tend to the ATF that is all over my driveway right now. Crank damper and injectors are coming soon!!
 
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Happy Camper
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Jackson, where's all the tranny fluid leaking from???

very nice 12 point bolts, well done
 

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Wanted to mention that when I put my rebuilt front driveshaft in last year I sought out some better hardware on the axle end. I never had a problem with the factory internal torx bolts but really hated dealing with them. I found some ARP 12pt bolts that fit the bill.

edit* bad link

McMaster Carr pn 93700A218

View attachment 918533 View attachment 918534
ARP EVERYTHING!!!
 

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Jackson, where's all the tranny fluid leaking from???

very nice 12 point bolts, well done

Good question. I noticed after my first filter change (I installed rebuilt trans Oct 2019) that there was some seepage out of the front band adjusting stud/nut and from the lower right bolt on O.D. extension housing. IIRC the lower right bolt is a bugger because it is not a blind hole. Since I had just changed filter and put in fresh fluid I figured I could deal with the little seepage until next filter change. I have roughly 6,000 miles on the trans and it is a mess under there, more that a seep.

My plan is to use The Right Stuff on that O.D. housing bolt.


New pan gasket and not sure yet on the band adjust stud.

Hopefully the O.D. housing is not cracked or some other seal is not leaking.
 

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Happy Camper
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Some ATF leaks are hard to find, but I think you're on the right track, blow it off dry then keep an eye on it, good luck.
I wouldn't put the Permatex on the pan gasket but you can do what you want to :)
 

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Yeah the permatex is not for the pan gasket, just the bolt threads on the lower left bolt to O.D. housing. I am putting on a new OE pan gasket though.
 
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Happy Camper
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I guess I don't have to tell you that band bolt needs to be at 1-1/2 turns, I think .......
 
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