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Do the dealer installed or newer exhaust brakes built into the variable geometry turbos engage when you're in overdrive?

The instructions from PACBrake said not to use it in OD but the document they reference is from October 1999 so perhaps that limitation was only applicable to 47 or older transmissions.

It does not make sense to me that the transmission would be significantly weaker with relatively low resistance from an EB versus full power from the engine. I checked with my transmission shop and they also did not know of any 'directional' weaknesses in the 48RE that would make using the EB in overdrive a problem. Whenever I'm in overdrive I am obviously empty or towing light so the EB is not trying to hold back a large load either. Also, the brake will automatically engage in overdrive when the torque converter is locked up so they don't programmatically prevent it from operating in overdrive.

I'd like to just leave it on all the time and use it to slow down from highway to town speeds but do not want to risk transmission trouble if that's a possibility.
The VTG trucks with factory EB also come with a 68RFE (6.7 truck, 07.5+). The trans and turbo are all made for the EB function. It works in all 3-6. So yea both OD gears. It does function a lot better in 3-4. More retarding power for sure. I don't think you could easily add a VGT to a 5.9 3rd gen. You can add a normal EB, however on a auto 4x8RE you will need a controller of some kind to deal with the trans though, it should handle it all so it only kicks in when the converter is locked. I doubt it cares about OD or not.

note that there really isn't an "EB" persay on the 6.7 trucks, not like one you would install in a 5.9 truck. It's just the VGT's ability to close up. Its functions just like an EB. So why not include it in the truck right?
 

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2003 Cummins NV5600 Trans All Stock
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I installed a new starter. The old one was pulling to hard to start the motor. Adjusted the valves to the proper tolerances. I think I found an oil leak on the front seal. Wait and find out. I haven't noticed any loss of oil between oil changes.
 

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Changed rear brake pads.


There was a lot of rust in the calipers to the extent some of the holes were plugged.


So I air hammered and poked around to clean it off and got a couple of cups of rust dust off each rotor.

Those rotors need to be replaced, just my .05
More than that, you should look into re-building your calipers. When you have that much uneven wear in the pads something is stuck.
Had the same issue and the pistons were locked (wouldn't retract).

If you just throw new parts at it, it will likely happen again
 

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More than that, you should look into re-building your calipers. When you have that much uneven wear in the pads something is stuck.
Had the same issue and the pistons were locked (wouldn't retract).

If you just throw new parts at it, it will likely happen again
They are not very uneven. That is the new pad on the left vs old.

But there was difference of about 3 mm top to bottom on one of the other pads. I'll keep an eye on these and when I'm ready for the next set of pads it may include new disks, calipers, and bracket. And, if the exhaust brake works as intended that should be a few years away.
 

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They are not very uneven. That is the new pad on the left vs old.

But there was difference of about 3 mm top to bottom on one of the other pads. I'll keep an eye on these and when I'm ready for the next set of pads it may include new disks, calipers, and bracket. And, if the exhaust brake works as intended that should be a few years away.
Gotcha that was my bad, it looked like you were missing more material on the rotor on one side too, but that's what I get for looking from mobile.

Today (well yesterday) I finished the install of my Carli Backcountry kit (with the help of some buds). I did all of the front end stuff solo, they helped with the rear leaf install as those are heavy as all get out. It actually went really well. No stuck bolts. No cutting. Definitely some awkward positions and some "persuasive" methods to get old hardware out. Re-used one bolt (forward mounting of the springs) and the shackles came with new hardware so didn't have to re-use those.

What a night and day difference.

Carli 3" coils, Carli sway bar links, new track bar bushings (greaseable from Geno's), Carli Control Arms, Thuren track bar (installed at an earlier date) Fox 2.0 reservoirs all 4 corners, Carli (Deaver) full leaf pack.
 

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Gotcha that was my bad, it looked like you were missing more material on the rotor on one side too, but that's what I get for looking from mobile.

Today (well yesterday) I finished the install of my Carli Backcountry kit (with the help of some buds). I did all of the front end stuff solo, they helped with the rear leaf install as those are heavy as all get out. It actually went really well. No stuck bolts. No cutting. Definitely some awkward positions and some "persuasive" methods to get old hardware out. Re-used one bolt (forward mounting of the springs) and the shackles came with new hardware so didn't have to re-use those.

What a night and day difference.

Carli 3" coils, Carli sway bar links, new track bar bushings (greaseable from Geno's), Carli Control Arms, Thuren track bar (installed at an earlier date) Fox 2.0 reservoirs all 4 corners, Carli (Deaver) full leaf pack.
Give us a more details review on how it rides if you don't mind. What suspension did you have before? Sometime I wish I went with the 2.0 shocks instead of the 2.5s and spent the difference on rear leaf springs.
 

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Give us a more details review on how it rides if you don't mind. What suspension did you have before? Sometime I wish I went with the 2.0 shocks instead of the 2.5s and spent the difference on rear leaf springs.
Prior to this I was running a 2.5" coil level with HD truck springs (TufTruck) with Fox 2.0 reservoirs up front (non-Carli version), Extreme Articulation adjustable control arms, same Thuren adj trackbar, Bilstein 5100's in the rear with OEM leafs.

The shocks even though being the 2.0's differ. The generic 2.0's, although they can be rebuilt, don't have the same tune to them and don't have any external adjustments while the Carli version has the adjustment on the reservoir. I didn't touch that is it is tuned for that setup (plus I haven't really read into it).

The HD springs I was running before are exactly that, beefy. They are meant for those who run plows or heavy front bumpers. The wire diameter is larger but they are shorter since they don't need as many coils, but still provide a 2.5" front end level.

The ride is much more dampened now. I haven't spent too much time on them, but the times I have they have been exercised very 'well' due to the shite roads we have out here. I'm talking like teeth chipping potholes, expansion joints, and just pure neglect of this state. It was a comfortable ride to say the least.

Prior to the new suspension, especially the rear end, you could tell the truck wanted to "skip" the back end when something sharp was hit. You had to be on your toes to make sure the truck didn't follow where it wanted to skip to. It would take a steering wheel adjustment at the least. Even with the previous setup my front end is tight (tracks down the road straight, no bump steer, no play in the wheel). I think that is the first thing you need to do to fully appreciate the setup. Quality ball joints and other supporting front end components.

The old setup especially in the rear would transfer all that energy to the passengers when something was hit. There was really no dampening. The Billy's are good, I just think the OEM leafs leave much to be desired. They do not keep the truck planted and seem to be an afterthought from Dodge.
"Put em on there and let them deal with it" type of component.

The new Carli's really seem to compliment the truck. There was ZERO skipping of the rear end when hitting something (bed unloaded too). Literally, going over nasty things in the road, the steering wheel wouldn't move and the truck didn't want to wander. Normally it would be all over the place, correcting to whichever way it wanted due to how stiff everything was. With the new, it really soaked that up and there was no change in steering wheel direction while it was in the nasty.

Obviously the true test will be to get her out into some mountain shuttle roads and put it to work, but it really, in my case, feels like a completely different truck. I really can't complain about the old setup though, for what it was, it did its job. It was meant to support heavier loads, but you're going to compromise ride quality when you do that.

As far as the 2.5 vs 2.0, I have some buds with the 2.5's from Carli and riding in their trucks is a treat. They do feel great, but most of them have gone to town with upgrading all the other parts of the suspension as well. Telling the difference between the 2, just standard driving you probably can't, but using them to their extremes it's likely more noticeable to the user. For myself, I couldn't justify the added cost. Like you mentioned, it was worth to put that money towards a new leaf pack as 16 year old leafs were pretty worn out, as well as the bushings.

The new setup also got rid of a clunk I've had for a long time in the back. I knew it was a bushing, but also knew I just didn't want to replace bushings when it was time, I was going full pack.

Honestly, the most noticeable part of the whole change is how the rear end of this truck plants due to the leaf pack. If you're going to start with a component and piece it together, it seems everyone (including myself) always start with the front components because they want a level. But if I did it over knowing what I know now (and I had my budget from back in the day) I would have done the rear leafs first, hands down.

The ride height stays true to what they say. The 3" coil gives me just under a 3" level in the front (I do have a pretty heavy front bumper) but the Carli's seem to take it fine. The rear leafs add about 1" to the OEM ride height which compliments this level in the front. The rear leafs will likely pack in a bit over time too. There is a little bit of rake (nose down) but it's really not that noticeable, you have to measure.

I'll be able to shed a bit more light when I get more time on them but it's all positive so far. It really does feel like a different truck.
 

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Replaced stock boards with Ironcross'. Took a little longer due to drilling 4 holes on each side. Would like to add supports when I get a welder. Right now, strong with little to no flex. IMG_5518.jpeg
 

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As far as the 2.5 vs 2.0, I have some buds with the 2.5's from Carli and riding in their trucks is a treat. They do feel great, but most of them have gone to town with upgrading all the other parts of the suspension as well. Telling the difference between the 2, just standard driving you probably can't, but using them to their extremes it's likely more noticeable to the user. For myself, I couldn't justify the added cost. Like you mentioned, it was worth to put that money towards a new leaf pack as 16 year old leafs were pretty worn out, as well as the bushings.


I'll be able to shed a bit more light when I get more time on them but it's all positive so far. It really does feel like a different truck.
Thanks for this! I've got a clunk in my rear suspension that is driving me nuts and I've been tempted to say screw it and replace the leaf pack. I'm narrowing things down but it's looking like leaf spring bushings and I'm dreading replacing them. My hesitation is that I have a slide in camper that weighs about 1,200lbs empty. I have Timbrens to help with sway but not sure if they'll be enough?
 

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Thanks for this! I've got a clunk in my rear suspension that is driving me nuts and I've been tempted to say screw it and replace the leaf pack. I'm narrowing things down but it's looking like leaf spring bushings and I'm dreading replacing them. My hesitation is that I have a slide in camper that weighs about 1,200lbs empty. I have Timbrens to help with sway but not sure if they'll be enough?
There are bushings in the leaf and the shackle. They can both be replaced if you want to torch/cut/press them out. Could be quite the challenge. It's most definitely linked to the bushings IMO. My leafs were in good shape when I removed, the bushings need replaced. Whether it's the bushings in the leafs or the shackle that was making the clunk, not sure. But I knew when I went in for replacement I was just going to do a full pack (which come with new bushings) and I didn't want to deal with the hassle of pressing or removing the bushings in the shackle for down time purposes (traveling this week) so I purchased new shackles/hardware.

These probably have years of service left now, but if I ever need to replace the shackle bushings, I'll likely remove the bushings in the shackles that I took off this time since they are out of the truck and replace them with some Energy Sus poly bushings or something similar, and jus swap the whole shackle unit out.
 

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There are bushings in the leaf and the shackle. They can both be replaced if you want to torch/cut/press them out. Could be quite the challenge. It's most definitely linked to the bushings IMO. My leafs were in good shape when I removed, the bushings need replaced. Whether it's the bushings in the leafs or the shackle that was making the clunk, not sure. But I knew when I went in for replacement I was just going to do a full pack (which come with new bushings) and I didn't want to deal with the hassle of pressing or removing the bushings in the shackle for down time purposes (traveling this week) so I purchased new shackles/hardware.

These probably have years of service left now, but if I ever need to replace the shackle bushings, I'll likely remove the bushings in the shackles that I took off this time since they are out of the truck and replace them with some Energy Sus poly bushings or something similar, and jus swap the whole shackle unit out.
exactly what I'm thinking. I've change too many leaf spring bushings in my day to ever want to do it again.
 

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Had to helicoil one of the bolts on the electric 4wd shifter module. Yay.
If there was a mechanical shifter that I could hook up and put a hole through the driver floor, I’d totally do it. I see that the stick shift 2500s have the same case but full manual!
That little splined peg sticking out the auto tcase though seems doable with enough ingenuity to just diy. Curious if anyone has done a home made solution for that?
And while I was down there noticed the pinion seal leaking. Fun times.
ADC920FD-59A4-4DE5-A60A-2490D35CD700.jpeg
 

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Flush drains for the sunroof (4) and Rear sliding window (2). Pretty clogged up but easy to perform...Heavy rain is forecast for us for this season..
 
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