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Hi the trans tube needs to be mounted to the engine or bell housing, if mounted to the firewall it will not move with the trans and engine and may crack the tube.


Ohh good thinking! I’ll need to mock up a bracket then, the included one was garbage and was moving all over the place.


My trans dip stock comes out on it’s own too, will a new one fix that?
 

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s10010001 their should have been a bracket off the tube bolted to the bell housing, their is no bracket on your tube anywhere? Or maybe its just not boled down?
 

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s10010001 their should have been a bracket off the tube bolted to the bell housing, their is no bracket on your tube anywhere? Or maybe its just not boled down?
I didn't look down by the bell housing. There is a bracket on the net by the handle, it normally bolted to a standoff on the EGR. Well the EGR is out of service and testing so yea... My original EGR delete kit came with a little bracket that mounts to the engine, its actually in one of the pictures I posted but I took it off. I could hear the dip stick rattling from inside the cab.
 

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Welp it’s been a busy week random maintenance wise for my truck passenger side battery decided to randomly explode for no reason said screw it and replaced both batteries with Napa gold ones (didn’t feel like spending $250 for another red top) all this while trying to chase down a leake in the AC lines it has an extremely slow leak where it runs out of Freon in a week. compressor and lines and dryer were all replaced last week before the hurricane was supposed to come here had them test the evaporator for leaks no leaks found. Refilled it with a stop leak Freon today hopefully that does the job cause this heat here is brutal
 

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Welp it’s been a busy week random maintenance wise for my truck passenger side battery decided to randomly explode for no reason said screw it and replaced both batteries with Napa gold ones (didn’t feel like spending $250 for another red top) all this while trying to chase down a leake in the AC lines it has an extremely slow leak where it runs out of Freon in a week. compressor and lines and dryer were all replaced last week before the hurricane was supposed to come here had them test the evaporator for leaks no leaks found. Refilled it with a stop leak Freon today hopefully that does the job cause this heat here is brutal


It’s always best replace them in pairs, good call. Those Optima batteries are junk anyways, all marketing bs. Their not nearly what they used to be when they sold the company. They are owned and produced by the same company that makes most of the parts store batteries, I forget the same.

Good luck with the AC, next time you refill just put some dye in it (doesn’t the stop leak cans include dye?) using a black light flashlight you will find it super fast.
 

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Hi the next guy that does work on your A/C is going to hate you with that stop leak in it, it screws up A/C recharge machines valves
 

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It’s always best replace them in pairs, good call. Those Optima batteries are junk anyways, all marketing bs. Their not nearly what they used to be when they sold the company. They are owned and produced by the same company that makes most of the parts store batteries, I forget the same.

Good luck with the AC, next time you refill just put some dye in it (doesn’t the stop leak cans include dye?) using a black light flashlight you will find it super fast.
I bought the red tops 2 years ago never had any issue with them hell even a cold start (well not a real one but for Florida is when it sits for 24 hours :hehe: ) started up with no issue with just 1 battery but like you said the quality has gone down a lot

I believe it does but I’m hoping whatever leak my system has is small enough that this stop leak fixs the issue

Hi the next guy that does work on your A/C is going to hate you with that stop leak in it, it screws up A/C recharge machines valves
I’m not too concerned with that cause the people I know I have do the ac don’t have those giant (I believe they’re snap on) machines they’re last of a dying breed using the old fashioned gauges i forget the actual name for them tho. But with this truck if I can’t do the job myself I have my dad’s long time friend that’s a diesel mechanic wizard he’s one of those extremely rare dying breed that can do an engine swap with whatever tools they can fit into their pockets lol
 

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Not sure why people say that Optima batteries are no good. The last two I had for 9 and 10 years, one of them still held a charge and started my truck by itself, and was still working when I pulled it just to be safe...:confused013:
 

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Hi a good mechanic would have used dye and nitrogen to fiind a small A/C leak not sealing crap.
 

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Sealant is just about the worst thing that can be used on an A/C system. I e never seen any good come out of its use.
I put the can in cause I can’t stand an ac that doesn’t blow cold but now it’s been almost a week since I’ve put it in and it stopped whatever leak there was and it’s blowing ice cold like from the factory. I guess they’ve improved the Freon with stop leak that they sell in the can cause I’ve used it in multiple vehicles that have had ac issue and they been working great or maybe I’m just one of the lucky ones that it actually works for with no issues on the system afterwards :confused013:
 

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got my tensioner pulley replaced and a green back belt put on. no more squeaky belt.

replaced my A/C control lights, kinda nice not having that giant black space in the center of the dash anymore at night.

also new blower motor. original had a dead spot and sometimes wouldn't turn on unless you gave it a little love tap with your foot.

now to just get out there and run my valves

last week i did #4 injector and so far ( knock on wood) the truck is running way better. no more miss and smoke on start up.
 

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I made a few sets of cam bolt eliminators from 304 stainless and installed one set in my truck.
 

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hi i have a large vmc/ cnc mill and a large slant bed cnc lathe. I used a bunch of different tools. Took about 4 hours to write the programs and make a jig to hold it in the mill. I got it down to about 5 mins each after the 4 hours screwing around, dam i wish i have a 4 axis lathe with live tools.
 

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hi i have a large vmc/ cnc mill and a large slant bed cnc lathe. I used a bunch of different tools. Took about 4 hours to write the programs and make a jig to hold it in the mill. I got it down to about 5 mins each after the 4 hours screwing around, dam i wish i have a 4 axis lathe with live tools.
OK, the reason I asked is two places I worked did some stainless work, and it was always very hard on the tooling esp the stuff that was half hard or full hard they called it. I just remember it being hard to drill and use a counter sink on it even... it was tough to machine. So I was wondering if you used solid carbide end mills.
 

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hi stainless is not bad to cut but you must have the speeds and feeds and depth of cut correct or it can be hard on cutters. I try to use insert cutters most of the time as the cutter wears i can just change the insert, i don't have to buy new or regrind. I use a solid carbide end mill for the last .020 so the end mill will last much longer.
 
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