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Well dang I would be cutting losses and doing the work myself or having someone else do it. Was the head resurfaced prior to installing a new gasket? What gasket are they using? They are doing something wrong for sure and it will probably happen again
Yeah but so far all the work has been under warranty, so all I am out is my time and quite frankly, I paid him to do the work, I'd like him to get it right cause I really don't want to redo it for him. The head was resurfaced when it went to the machine shop to prep for studs and have the heavy springs put in.

I took it for a test drive the other day to test a theory. If I keep it under 10 PSI boost, it does not pressurize the cooling system, which (I think) narrows down the possibilities to 1. Deck is not flat 2. Head is not flat or 3. Reassembly was not correct. In my mind of there is a crack or defect somewhere it wouldn't matter how much boost I had, it would pressurize the coolant system. I don't know the brand of gaskets he used, but I do know they were 2 separate brands which leads me to rule out "bad gasket". Am I making bad assumptions?
 

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Addressed my KDP, which hasn’t seemed to move since 1993. I also installed some reman injectors. I went ahead and removed the heat exchanger from under the turbo as well.
Good on ya. I can promise it is far less costly and PITA fixing the KDP now rather that waiting for it or one of the other bolts to fall out and frag your engine.
 

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Addressed my KDP, which hasn’t seemed to move since 1993. I also installed some reman injectors. I went ahead and removed the heat exchanger from under the turbo as well.
I hope you have a good aftermarket trans cooler then.
 

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I do know they were 2 separate brands which leads me to rule out "bad gasket". Am I making bad assumptions?
I have a feeling their install procedure is wrong somehow but if I were you I would have them use a mahle/cummins gasket even if you have to pay a bit more. Then make double sure they are following arp torque specs if that’s the studs you are using.
 

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Yeah I believe they are ARP studs, and the owner and I are going to have that conversation this week.
 

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Addressed my KDP, which hasn’t seemed to move since 1993. I also installed some reman injectors. I went ahead and removed the heat exchanger from under the turbo as well.
Isnt it a relief knowing its taken care of? After Reading Cj5s fiasco last summer I made it a priority to take care of over winter. Now I am just paranoid that I have a bad crank or piston bearing because of what sounds like a rod knock for the first couple minutes after starting it up. No idea how to check if it is bad, wasn't doing it the first drive or two this spring and I didn't see any bearing glitter in the oil when I changed it after doing the KDP.
 

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Isnt it a relief knowing its taken care of? After Reading Cj5s fiasco last summer I made it a priority to take care of over winter. Now I am just paranoid that I have a bad crank or piston bearing because of what sounds like a rod knock for the first couple minutes after starting it up. No idea how to check if it is bad, wasn't doing it the first drive or two this spring and I didn't see any bearing glitter in the oil when I changed it after doing the KDP.
If it does it while cold but goes away while warm my money is that it’s a bad injector knocking.
 

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Isnt it a relief knowing its taken care of? After Reading Cj5s fiasco last summer I made it a priority to take care of over winter. Now I am just paranoid that I have a bad crank or piston bearing because of what sounds like a rod knock for the first couple minutes after starting it up. No idea how to check if it is bad, wasn't doing it the first drive or two this spring and I didn't see any bearing glitter in the oil when I changed it after doing the KDP.
It is. The tear down was quite easy compared to the head gasket I did on it. I’m used to dealing with big v8’s in small vehicles, so the room in a full size truck with an in-line 6 is nice. I’d agree about the bad injector. Mine seems to be more quiet with the new set in there.
 

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If it does it while cold but goes away while warm my money is that it’s a bad injector knocking.
good to know, I was unsure how I would go from no "noticeable" rod knock to being noticeable almost overnight. An injector I can see happening rapidly. So is this a replace ASAP or is it safe to drive with monitoring until later?
 

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Took the truck in this morning to have the head gasket replaced again (under warranty). Had a very specific conversation about the NAPA thermostat that was installed vs the Cummins version durring the engine rebuild, setting the timing by dial indicator vs eye balling the pump mark and the expected quality of the head gasket. The head should be back at the machine shop tonight to verify it is flat and true.

This engine is at the mild end of "built" in comparison to a drag or puller truck, but according to all the internet wisdom regarding the specs, it should be a 300-400 HP fire breather in my little 6000 lb daily driver, and dang it, I wana play with it as such without the head gasket popping when I hit 35 psi boost. Sorry sometimes patience is not my strong suit.
 

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I pulled my camper around 1k miles the last few days without issue. After sticking it in my back pasture this morning, I got out to lock in the hubs. This is what I found when I got to the passenger side. I feel I keep my truck in tip-top shape, so how this happened is beyond me. The outer bearing gave out and ruined the wheel hub and pads. Sucker got hot.
 
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