What are your thoughts?
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A couple turbo related codes there
P226B is boost pressure too high
P226C is actuator not closing fully
U010C is lost communication to vgt actuator
P003A another turbo/actuator code
P2BAC is an information code
P1507 is crankcase pressure too high - change crankcase filter out should clear it
P24A5 is egr cooler bypass bank 1 control stuck
Potentially sooted up or can be caused if recently ran truck without air filter on
From the sounds of the codes it's just typical wear and tear from an emissons intact Truck. I'd recommend him getting an egr cleaning, replacing the crankcase filter and getting that turbo diagnosed
Potentially that turbo is toast or could just be badly sooted up in the vanes
P226B is boost pressure too high
P226C is actuator not closing fully
U010C is lost communication to vgt actuator
P003A another turbo/actuator code
P2BAC is an information code
P1507 is crankcase pressure too high - change crankcase filter out should clear it
P24A5 is egr cooler bypass bank 1 control stuck
Potentially sooted up or can be caused if recently ran truck without air filter on
From the sounds of the codes it's just typical wear and tear from an emissons intact Truck. I'd recommend him getting an egr cleaning, replacing the crankcase filter and getting that turbo diagnosed
Potentially that turbo is toast or could just be badly sooted up in the vanes
Thats what I was thinking. Clean the egr. Diagnose the turbo. The ccv is easy. There was also a Nox code. Probably the sensor.
What is the best stuff to use to clean the turbo if the exhaust side is gummed up? Acetone? Something to soak the exhaust side in.
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440 Posts
Yeah that p2bac is P2BAC-NOx EXCEEDENCE - (DEACTIVATION OF EGR) which could be leading to the egr just packed full of soot not making it operate as intended or a simple nox sensor
As for the actuator I've heard that just tapping the stuck mechanism with a brass hammer until it moves freely is good, then working the lever until it moves freely through the range of motion.
Just make sure to drain the coolant before removing the vgt servo or you can risk flooding it with coolant which will ruin it
My next problem is this is a work truck. So it can't be down for very long waiting on parts and such.
How likely is it that the turbo is more than just gummed up or the actuator needs replacing. I would like to get one of those upgraded actuators here. Drain the coolant and begin diagnosis and hopefully just clean turbo and install the new actuator.
How likely is it that the turbo is more than just gummed up or the actuator needs replacing. I would like to get one of those upgraded actuators here. Drain the coolant and begin diagnosis and hopefully just clean turbo and install the new actuator.
Here is our troubleshooting guide. Holler if you have any questions as im happy to help!
Clayton
Clayton
Thanks. I'm going to check the wiring. But the behavior of the truck for the last six months with the CEL coming on more frequently and the exhaust brake sometimes not working. Poor fuel economy. I'm starting to lean towards the slide ring sticking.
It very well could be. If this happens the turbo actuator is the weak link in the system designed to fail first before the turbo. If you get it rebuilt or cleaned just do an actuator as well. Or if you go with a new turbo or something let me know. We have some awesome Black Friday deals right now and I’ll be working all weekend for customers. = )
That's what I was thinking. I'll probably tell my buddy it's best to just dl the turbo.
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