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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to try a heat dispersal fluid which requires me to drain my cooling system.
My first question is :

What is the BEST way to drain the cooling system.

My second question is :

What type of water do i need to replace it with. I have several 5 gallon containers of drinking water which I get from my Culligan man. Is there anything wrong with using it. Please help.........
 

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i am pretty sure you need to used distilled water
 

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I use distilled water when I use water wetter... I susually flush the motor with regular tap or well water and then drain and final fill with distilled.

This is in my motorcycles though with aluminum radiators. Haven't had to do anything with the truck yet.
 

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why distilled?.. has to do with mineral content , good tasting but bad for rad. unless ive missed something dont spend much on any HIGH DOLLAR water wetter Its just dilluted soap to break surface tension of water bubbles to achieve a greater surface heat transfer
 

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I think ive seen cheep kits that intergrate a coolent type cap with a garden hose to power flush rad also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hell I need to know how to flush it and where the drains and vents are first. Yea I seen some at local parts store like you said....
 

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Thank you sir, its my pride and joy! Got a pic of yours?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No not yet, I love mine as well same as yours but crew cab. The wife shut me down at the dealership because she said it was to long,( I thought all women liked length? ) so I settled with the crew cab for now.
 

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radiator drain is on the driver's side of the radiator.... or you can pop a hose. I don't know where the thermostat is so I don't know about taking that out on this model to flush the motor too.... all depends on the setup. Someone else can chime in because I don't have the service manual yet.
 

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Also remember diesels take special coolant.
 

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Also remember diesels take special coolant.
I've never heard that one? whats wrong with your run of the mill green prestone??
 

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All my fords have had a sticker in the engine bay that said what to get. You need a low silicate antifreeze and also the coolant additive. Or you can buy the coolant that is premixed with additive in it already. Rottella ELC is what I use.
 

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Google cylinder cavitation and you should get some articles explaining it. Basically the high compression of a diesel causes little air pockets in the coolant to bounce off the cylinder walls and burst this over time causes little pin holes in your cylinder walls which leads to a new motor.
 

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O.k. got me thinkin so i looked and learned , dodge states etheline glycol coolant is good, propeline glycol not good, however most nowadays is etheline glycol thats compatable with all types and carries a 5 year/forever tag also, clearly states meets ansi requirements and the 5 year part is most important, It's the H.O.A.T. rating meaning Hybrid Organic Additive technology that protects the aluminum parts from white corrosion, prolonging system life. simpler terms are, dodge P.N. 5011764ab or equivalent. most all coolant is this type now its cheeper and less toxic to produce. Ohh manual also states if in bind run whatever then change asap or to that effect.
 

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I have been looking at evans coolant uses no water. cooler temps no cavation.
 
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