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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up a 2006 f450, I’ve been looking for a zf6 and t case for a while, so I got a truck with em in it. I had planned on using either a dodge cab or some sort of vintage cab in a [email protected] F 550 chasis I already have. I think the best thing for me to do is strip and part out my newly acquired 06 down to cab and chasis(leaving the trans n t case in place, I will then install my 12v and lift it and put some stupid 24.5 alcoas under it.(was thinking about getting em milled but ****, 41”x20 tires are almost if not more than a thousand d bucks each. I can use semi rubber for a fraction, I really don’t care about the rough ride.)

so anyone want a mechanic servic body, a 6.0L, any parts of a complete f550 chasis , I have some things I dont need anymore.

someday I still would like to use a vintage crew cab on a build like this, either build another or chop this cab and fenders from the firewall and lower a prepped vin rage cab over top welderup and go to town.

I made the decision to build this thing last august. It’s incredible how much it has evolved since then, all because I do t have a heated shop to work in on the winter.
Can’t wait for the spring.

anyone 12v swapping into 06 era ford series trucks feel free to chime in with advice. I am going g to buy as little as I can and stay away from all the so called swap kits that I’m reading so much hate about
 
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Unfortunately I have no advice on your specific build, but I am looking forward to following your progress. Being a project addict, I enjoy the creativity of others in their builds.

I'm picking up a rough 1952 Chevy Sedan Delivery Sunday, to base a long term diesel project on.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the interest and support. This project keeps evolving and changing…. And getting costly. If I had a heated shop…. Spring is coming
 

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I’ve got a 04 with a 12v
Also did a 06 coil spring from frame conversion to the truck
If you plan to tow or haul much weight you’ll need to do the engine and trans set back in order to run a mechanical fan
I used Destroked engine mounts but had to modify they to get the engine were I wanted it
I like the Destroked engine adapter the uses a 6.0 starter with no block modifications
While the cabs off would be a good time to drill the frame for the trans cross member set back
We had to modify my cross member because there wasn’t enough room to drill with the cab in place

If you plan to use the Cummins lift pump you’ll need to upgrade to a larger fuel line size
That mistake cost me a 160 injection pump
Unless you plan to run some type of tall tire regearing the axle’s will be one of the biggest expenses
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I plan to run the mech Cummins lift pump, all new fuel supply lines, I’m running Alcoa 22.5’s 41-44” tall depending on what tire I choose. I’m using commercial tires, I dont care that it’ll be rough, I’ve been driving dodge lumber wagons for sometime now, plus I plan to eventually put air ride all around, I am
Leaning towards destroyed mounts, I wasn’t sure about the adapter, thanks for that opinion,

care to share what you did with the mounts to make them work? I take it there isn’t a good set of electric fans that are sufficient…

thanks for you reply and input!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
NOTE: this is NOT a for sale post, but a question about my build. I mention that I am parting something out and someone is interested in a couple parts. I mention this only for context. I am unwilling to ship parts so I have decided not to post anything anywhere that is it local to myself. If there are any misconceptions or miss understanding I apologize.


Donor truck is getting parted out. Someone wants the auto trans and pcm. I’m using the existing Zf6 in the build,(it’s in the 06 f450 I’m converting)

do I need this pcm or…
I need one from a manual truck?
Can I let this one go and not have a problem
Part of me thinks I should know this and that it’s kind of a dumb question, it’s been a
Long few days, lol
 

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Donor truck is getting parted out. Someone wants the auto trans and pcm. I’m using the existing Zf6 in the build,(it’s in the 06 f450 I’m converting)

pcm/ecm same thing?
I need one from a manual truck?
Can I let this one go and not have a problem
Part of me thinks I should know this and that it’s kind of a dumb question, it’s been a
Long few days, lol
No one knows what your donor truck is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No one knows what your donor truck is.
My apologies, the donor truck for my build is a 12v truck with an auto 47re trans(the one that the gentleman is interested in), my build is a 06 F450 Cummins conversion ZF6.

donor: 1997 dodge 3500 club cab dually Laramie blue in colour with some factory decalling.

recipient: 2006 F450 super cab 6.0L white in colour with a service body and vmac(removing these to sell), alcoas, 41” + tires, custom deck, air bags all around, mild Hp increase to 450/500HP, cloth interior swapped to leather, may need to find 08 or newer rear doors so I can us HD or similar seats,
 

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To answer the original question, no you don't need the dodge PCM, feel free to let it go with the dodge transmission.

The only things the dodge PCM does for the 12 valve engine (the part you're keeping) is operate the grid heaters, cycle the air conditioning compressor clutch, facilitate converting the ESS sensor signal into the tach signal and excite the alternator field. All of which have aftermarket / swap friendly solutions.

I have never seen or read about a Cummins conversion where the dodge PCM was retained/ swapped into the new vehicle (even those that retained the dodge automatics transmission where the PCM does control a lot of the transmission functions, those guys use an aftermarket trans controllers and still ditch the dodge PCM)
...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thankyou!
 
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Cummins lift pump sucks fuel from the tank to the engine, a larger suction line like 1/2” insures good fuel supply. Dodge used 3/8 line with mid mount tanks for stock engines, your 550 tank is behind the rear axle and if you plan to add power the larger line is a benefit
Other than the additional unsprung weight of the larger tires and wheels the ride won’t change much, the 19.5 tires are commercial themselves with 14 ply rating and over 100 psi air pressure
For my towing app I geared the truck to run local speed limit for secondary roads in direct gear at 2200 rpm
If your local speed limit is 90 kph with the trucks 4.88 gearing you’ll need a 42” tire to achieve that at 2200 rpm

Destroked uses 2 right side engine brackets and mounts from a common rail Dodge and their own frame brackets. This is a good mount but it has the engine at a 5 degree tilt, with my set back for mechanical fan this had the transmission up against the floor board and the fan sticking 2-3” above the radiator
We used 1/2” steel plate to move the engine brackets up about 1 inch lowering the engine to a 2 1/2 degree tilt, this got the trans away from the cab and centered the fan in the 7.3 radiator and shroud I used
I’ll try to post some photos of the mounts later
I have wondered if one could fabricate a set of engine brackets to work with the 6.0’s mounts
 

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The stock 225/70r19.5 tires are normally 12ply and already ride quite hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hiway speeds local to me are 100km on 2 lane, and 110 on 4 lane divided. Traction with these tires. People have told me it could raise a problem. I plan to use an aggressive off-road tread, tires ment for oilfield and logging trucks. I don’t know if this terminology is accurate, but the shop where I am getting the tires said they have syping capabilities. If i have the tires sypted for added traction on wet pavement would it not add traction all around? Will this cause premature wear, I’m thinking that comerciteuck tires in my lighter truck may have a long life…..

what do you think?
 

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The stock 225/70r19.5 tires are normally 12ply and already ride quite hard.
Mine are G rated (14 ply) Michelin front, Dunlop rears
I put commercial G rated 235/85R16’s on my trailer, wasn’t getting good service from the E rated tires I was running
 

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Hiway speeds local to me are 100km on 2 lane, and 110 on 4 lane divided. Traction with these tires. People have told me it could raise a problem. I plan to use an aggressive off-road tread, tires ment for oilfield and logging trucks. I don’t know if this terminology is accurate, but the shop where I am getting the tires said they have syping capabilities. If i have the tires sypted for added traction on wet pavement would it not add traction all around? Will this cause premature wear, I’m thinking that comerciteuck tires in my lighter truck may have a long life…..

what do you think?
For oil field and logging you need a fairly aggressive thread to get you through the mud, but the more aggressive the thread the shorter the thread life on hard surfaces
Siping does effect thread life some, it does help increase traction on snow and ice covered roads
Years ago when I was traveling the upper north east snow belt, a tire rep told me that rubber doesn’t grip to snow or ice, snow and ice grip to snow and ice
Sipes are little groves cut in the thread, snow and ice embeds in those sipes providing that snow to snow grip
Once you start spinning most of that extra grip from the sipes is lost
The larger tires should get longer life due to less revolutions per mile traveled, but it is also effected by how the vehicle is used
Running long haul I got 320k miles from a set of drive tires, but only got 125k miles from the drives when doing local lumber and chip hauling

Here’s a tires with a lot of sipes in the thread
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Tread
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
To answer the original question, no you don't need the dodge PCM, feel free to let it go with the dodge transmission.

The only things the dodge PCM does for the 12 valve engine (the part you're keeping) is operate the grid heaters, cycle the air conditioning compressor clutch, facilitate converting the ESS sensor signal into the tach signal and excite the alternator field. All of which have aftermarket / swap friendly solutions.

I have never seen or read about a Cummins conversion where the dodge PCM was retained/ swapped into the new vehicle (even those that retained the dodge automatics transmission where the PCM does control a lot of the transmission functions, those guys use an aftermarket trans controllers and still ditch the dodge PCM)
...
so. And bear with me,. I’m learning and diving in head first. From my donor truck all I need is the dressed engine? Minus starter and a/c(the 6.0 starter I understand I can use, the a/c-I’m not surebut I hope so)…

I must admit, I don’t know what questions to ask. And I’ve read threads on conversions. But I’m my own worst enemy and can over complicate and …..

can you help me out with a list of what I need from the donor, what to retain from the 6.0, and a shopping list? For now, let’s just get it In the truck and driving. I’ll do that before I add any mods, mock it up in a sense and get it functioning, before I pull it out do what little performance adjustments I’m planning and clean things up and add a coat of paint.

the donor - 1997 dodge 3500 auto 4x4

the converted - an 06 F450 6.0 with a Zf6 and manual tcase(keeping the trans and tcase in place)

1. what do I save from the donor

2. what do I save in the f450

3. what to I build

4. what do I barter/buy/trade/

Or is there a thread I haven’t found that is detailed and easy to follow and/or replicate for a novice/(I’ll be honest-rookie altho a capable one)

thankyou gentlemen

I hope to be actually starting soon. Only 2 more months before weather hopefully cooperates. OnceI do I will take a lot of pics, document my journey, and lol, probably have more questions
 

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This would be a good place to start.


Buying this kit will get you 90% of everything you need.

As far as parts from the donor, all you really need is the dressed engine since you're converting a truck that was already a diesel (so it already has things like an intercooler and hydroboost brakes).

The rest you'll figure out along the way. Everyone's conversion is a little different.
...
 
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From the donor
Grid heater solenoids and bracket
Fuel Shutdown Solenoid relay and wiring
Inner cooler pipes
Dodge AC compressor
Engine wiring harness

From 6.0
Starter
Alternator
Engine wiring harness
Oil sender
Temp sender
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
From the donor
Grid heater solenoids and bracket
Fuel Shutdown Solenoid relay and wiring
Inner cooler pipes
Dodge AC compressor
Engine wiring harness

From 6.0
Starter
Alternator
Engine wiring harness
Oil sender
Temp sender
Damn, I was hoping I could use the ford ac..why not?
and Thankyou!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
This would be a good place to start.


Buying this kit will get you 90% of everything you need.

As far as parts from the donor, all you really need is the dressed engine since you're converting a truck that was already a diesel (so it already has things like an intercooler and hydroboost brakes).

The rest you'll figure out along the way. Everyone's conversion is a little different.
...
I’ve read more than several times these kits are problematic, anything in particular I should watch out for?

thankyou for your reply
 
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