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Ok. So, recently my truck has been having odd ball electrical issues that I feel like may be linked to each other. First, my a/c started cutting at at stoplight (the compressor would cycle on and off and blow hot air until I began to move again.) Soon after that began, the right rear brake light and turn signal light went out. I replaced the bulb, no joy. Still comes up with a lamp out light every time I hit the right signal or brake. Next, the driver side rear window stopped working (would work randomly until it just stopped.) Now, my temp gauge fluctuates from 180-220. Any ideas of what could cause this? My pass. side batter corrodes often and my driver side is a optima yellow top. I’m not sure if the pass side battery is on its way out and is shorting out? Has this happened to anyone else?
 

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It sounds like your TIPM is bad. This is a common problem across the whole Chrysler line of vehicles, not just the RAM trucks. I've replaced the TIPM on my 06 2500 Turbo Diesel 3 times; the first time was less than a month after I bought it (new). The doors would unlock and lock, power windows quit working, the odometer worked but the speedometer didn't. The overhead MPG was reading 0.5 MPG. I thought the truck was possessed. The dealership had to have one shipped from Detroit. The second failure happened a few years later when I was getting it ready for inspection. The driver's side low beam wasn't working and changing the bulb didn't solve the problem so I took the truck to a place that specializes in electrical problems. On my way back home from dropping it off I got a call and was told it was the TIPM. $700.00 later my headlight was working and the truck passed the inspection. The last replacement was to take care of the wipers. They would work when I pushed the switch to "wash" but using the normal switch didn't do anything most of the time but when it did work it ran as slow intermittent when I had the switch set to high. I ordered a re-manufactured Dorman TIPM but something happened during the phase where it was learning the VIN from the ECM and the truck went into security lockdown. That meant a tow to the local dealership for them to reset it. So, if you want to save money and do it yourself I would park it in a dealer's lot and replace it there just in case...It's an easy job and takes around 15 minutes but just like everything else Murphy's law applies.

I don't know what Chrysler was thinking when they decided to use such an unreliable and expensive method of controlling basic things such as lights and door locks. Relays previously did the job and did it well. Could it be to make more money selling parts lol?
 

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pass. side batter corrodes often and my driver side is a optima yellow top. I’m not sure if the pass side battery is on its way out and is shorting out?
This was a tell tale sign of a degraded dual battery 12V system, with overcharged passenger side battery and undercharged driver side battery.

Suggest to replace BOTH batteries with new and identical one.
Check/replace all BAD battery cables/connections and grounds, particularly the crossover cable.

All the other issues could be caused defective cluster, IPM/TIPM. :wink2:

Any DTC like P2509?
 

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Batteries and cables first

Hey guys! Thank you for the info! I’m going to replace both batteries and the TIPM soon and see if the issues are resolved. Will update. No codes are being shone at all btw.
I would follow PWong's advice and tackle the batteries/cable issues first. Bad batteries and poor cable connections can mimic the symptoms of a bad TIPM (which is an expensive part to replace. )
 
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