Engine Ear· Registered
Great that you made the trip! If you make plugs, brass is a better choice than aluminum. But at the price of brass stock, probably just as well to get Cummins OEM. Yes, the machinery handbook should have all the data for class of fit and thermal expansion. If you're running straight water, might want to consider doing a flush. Cummins is selling a flush that they brag is the best. Cleaners | Cummins Filtration I've never used it.So far so good. Drove it home with the cap off, no issues . I now have the cap on and it is working as it should. (Pulling water out of the overflow tank) I have yet to drain it and load it up with antifreeze, so I am running straight water in in. If it starts to freeze, I'll plug it in they a predicting 31 degrees for a couple hours on Sunday, lol. I plan to get to it this weekend.My heater core seems OK was plenty warm, I'll get ahold of cummins for the plugs (for future use). Maybe I'll get some brass and make them. ....The Machinery Handbook is your friend View attachment 943350
They used to recommend: "Close the drain valve and fill the cooling system with a mixture of clean water and sodium carbonate. One pound of sodium carbonate is needed for every six gallons of water. Operate the engine for five minutes at temperature above 176 º F. Stop the engine and allow the system to cool. Open the radiator drain valve to allow the system to drain. Fill the system with high quality water. Again, operate the engine for five minutes at temperature above 176 º F. Flush the system with clean water until the draining water is clear. Allow complete draining." Sodium carbonate is just washing soda that can be had at most supermarket laundry detergent section. I've used it, and it seems to have worked. This had been copied off the Cummins web site, but I've not been able to find it lately. Suppose when they started selling their super duper cleaner, they removed the homemade recipe.