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Do you need a new pump belt and stat? Get on Geno's garage and buy a quality water pump. The cheap ones tend to not last long. If the belt is good shape leave it. Same with the stat. If it's working it's working. As for the temp, hotter can increase the efficiency yes. I'm not 100% what temps are available for the 5.9 but I'd probably just go with a stock temp one.
 

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skip the gates pump & get the cummins pump, otherwise you willl be swapping it again in a couple of years.

200*f stat from napa (stant, $15) gets 0.5~0.8 mpg better.
 

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stant is a brand name of a thermostat.
 

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I tend to over-maintain my vehicle so when it was time for a new water pump, I also did a coolant flush, new thermostat and new belt. It was winter and I didn't have a warm place to work so I took it to my diesel mechanic. I kept the old belt as a spare. Less than year later, my tensioner started making noise so I got to spend a not so nice winter day in an open garage changing that too. I was advised to change out the idler at the same time so I bought the part and sure enough, it was shot too. My original water pump went out around 90-100k. If I had it to do over, I would have done all the work at the same time. When you do the work, It wouldn't hurt to spin all the other bearings that ride on the belt to make sure they're OK.
 

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I tend to over-maintain my vehicle so when it was time for a new water pump, I also did a coolant flush, new thermostat and new belt. It was winter and I didn't have a warm place to work so I took it to my diesel mechanic. I kept the old belt as a spare. Less than year later, my tensioner started making noise so I got to spend a not so nice winter day in an open garage changing that too. I was advised to change out the idler at the same time so I bought the part and sure enough, it was shot too. My original water pump went out around 90-100k. If I had it to do over, I would have done all the work at the same time. When you do the work, It wouldn't hurt to spin all the other bearings that ride on the belt to make sure they're OK.
that was my approach whdn i did mine back in 2014... swap it all for pjece of mind. my tensioner coule probably be swapped again in the next 50k or so.
 

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^ Same here at a little under 150k miles. Added idler pulley to the list.
Agree, if you're keeping the truck for a long time and this isn't a quick gotta fix it in an hour thing, get a Cummins waterpump. $160 vs $40-70 for aftermarket ones and if you're replacing the belt, nothing but OE or Continental (which used to be Goodyear gatorback).
I mistakenly used a parts store belt (Gates maybe), twice. They work, but they squeak, slip, chirp at the first sign of getting wet or coolant on them or oils. Even id you clean the daylights out of them. After 2 belts, I bought the Continental belt, no squealing for a few years now.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well today I had to run the heater on the way home from a 100 degree day. I bought whatever the hell water pump they had at NAPA.

Putting this thing on for a beginner mechanic was a horrific ordeal. Yeah yeah a half inch drive with no socket loosens up the belt and presto two bolts and your done. Of the six videos I watched none showed me that step of the half inch drive. After about an hour I finally figured it out along with two buddies.
I think I will educate and take my time buying tensioner, belt, thermostat and any other parts. Next time it will be much easier.
 

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I found removing the fan shroud frees up a decent amount of space to work within. WP and belt removal can be done with the fan shroud in place but it seemed too much of a fight for me to contend with... I Also used a belt tension tool (Lisle product) and removed the belt from the top side via the alternator pulley. I also replaced everything (at 105K) up front as well (WP, tensioner, T-stat, all coolant hoses, and idler pulley).
 
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