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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched on here about warm up and cool down. But most people are talking about cooling to a specific egt. I don't have a tuner so I don't know my egt's. 99% of my driving is just around town and to work sometimes. So how do I know how long to warm up/cool down. If I just let it idle to operating temp. With the exhaust brake it takes about 30 min. (outside temps in the teens). That's not very practical for running errands etc. Any suggestions?
 

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Read your owners manual it's covered in there.


For cool down turn your e-brake off, Watch your coolant temp gauge, it will start to fall.

This a good indicator to watch. When mine fals to normal idling temps i shut it off or fallow the chart in your owners manual.
 

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Plugging in the engine block heater is a good way to get it warmed up faster. Overnight, mine will heat it to about 100. I don't idle mine to operating temp. I warm it up to maybe 120 or so, and then go (gently).

There are EGT pyrometers in the exhaust gas flow pre and post catalyst. The pre-cat one is a poor-mans EGT, but I use it to monitor regen, and let it cool some if I have to stop mid-regen. Never takes more than 4-5 minutes of idling to take 1200 pre-cat temp down to about 500.

Cooling the turbo isn't quite as important as it once was. With the 6.7, you have a coolant cooled turbo (both antifreeze and oil).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do all the trucks have a block warmer. I haven't spent much time under the hood yet, but I didn't think mine had one. 07.5 model.
 

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All the trucks have the block heater, but not all trucks have the cord.
 

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Do all the trucks have a block warmer. I haven't spent much time under the hood yet, but I didn't think mine had one. 07.5 model.
If you pop the hood and look where the passenger side of the radiator and front bumper just about meet you might see the black cord with a plastic cover over the end of the plug. If it's not there then you likely don't have the cord. The cord plugs into the block heater which is basically in the block behind the oil filter.

For warm-up, no need to let it warm up by idling. Once you start it in the morning, let it run for about 30 seconds and then you can drive off. Don't accelerate hard or really got on it until the coolant temperature gets up near normal.

For cool-down, it's really not necessary to let it cool down after just driving around town or on the freeway empty. The cool-down is for stopping after a long, hard pull with a load where you've been running high boost/high load. After that you'll want to let it cool down for a couple of minutes, but that's really only necessary if you stop IMMEDIATELY after the pull. If you pull hard and then cruise before you stop, or basically drive slowly with little boost for a couple of minutes before you park then that works as a cool-down, so no need to let it idle some more once you park. Empty, no problem. You can just park and shut it down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks, I was hoping it would be simple. I bought the truck used and it doesn't have an owners manual. I'm working on getting one though.
 

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I believe the manual says 3-5 minutes for warmup in cold conditions. They dont give an exact temperature because the gauges dont show actual temps. If your stock with all your emissions in place i wouldnt let it warmup for more than 5 minutes due to your dpf filling up.
 

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Thanks, I was hoping it would be simple. I bought the truck used and it doesn't have an owners manual. I'm working on getting one though.
My Dodge: Dodge Owners Service Manuals - Dodge Cars, Trucks, Minivans, SUVs, Wagons, Hatchbacks

If your stock with all your emissions in place i wouldnt let it warmup for more than 5 minutes due to your dpf filling up.
Even if your not stock, fire it up, let oil pressure build and drive. Cold idling is hard on CR's, and most diesels.
 

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I believe the manual says 3-5 minutes for warmup in cold conditions. They dont give an exact temperature because the gauges dont show actual temps. If your stock with all your emissions in place i wouldnt let it warmup for more than 5 minutes due to your dpf filling up.
My temp gauge is spot on, it's the oil pressure gauge that's a liar (dummy gauge). :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I guess that's why I got the p02453 code tonight. I've been letting it warm up -0-15 minuteS. Now I gotta get rid of that problem. Oh and got 0471 code
 

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Well I guess that's why I got the p02453 code tonight. I've been letting it warm up -0-15 minuteS. Now I gotta get rid of that problem. Oh and got 0471 code
Can you double check the first code? Doesn't look right. The P0471 is related to the DPF, could be a plugged line due to soot.

If you let it idle when cold then I'd definitely run it with high-idle turned on so it's running at 1100+ RPM. You can see if this is enabled on your truck by starting the truck, making sure it's in park, e-brake on, and then turn on the cruise control. Once cruise control is on, press the cruise "set" button and if the idle jumps up to 1100rpm you have high-idle enabled. You can increase the idle above 1100rpm by using the cruise accel button and bring it back down using decel. High idle will help it warm up faster with the exhaust brake on.

Just letting it idle normally without the exhaust brake on it'll take forever to get warm, the EB helps quite a bit and high idle helps even more when used with the EB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yahoo, thanks forthat info. I used to work on an ambulance (powerstroke) and when you set the parking brake it would idle up to 1,500 rpm I think. I was tryingto figure out how to do that with this truck. Thanks!! I checked the code, 471 and 2453. No CEL or performance issues. I just have gotten in the habit of doing the ignition keycode check about every week or so.
 

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Gotcha. Well, both P2453 and P0471 have to do with the DPF pressure sensor or associated tubing, it's possible the sensor itself or the metal tubing are getting plugged up. If you have a chance, try driving the truck for about an hour on the freeway, if the truck needs to then it'll go into regen and clear some crap out. If you're not getting a CEL then I'd wait it out and see if the codes clear over time. No CEL at least means it's not a hard code that needs immediate attention.
 

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This is just kind of a gauge for your cooldowns. I have an Edge Juice that has the built in turbo timer. When the DPF is in I set my timer to 450 deg. When deleted it is set at 400. After normal unloaded driving it usually takes the truck about 30 seconds or less to drop to the 450 mark so it will shut off not hardly enough time to even worry about. When I have my deletes in it already below 450 at idle. When towing my 10K LB trailer it may take up to 5 minutes to drop down to the 400 deg. mark because of heat soak in the engine. Nothing is reading hot, just alot of execess heat in the parts to get rid of. It really suprised me how long it took!!

When I start the truck cold I just let everything run for a little bit to get the oil going before taking off nice and easy unles it is so cold I want it warmer in the cab then I will let it warm up for about 5 minutes but more than that is a waste of fuel.

I will tell you this, with the deletes and the engine brake on for warm up when it kicks up to high idle on really cold mornings it sounds like a damn jet fighter getting ready to take off hahaha!!!

Chris
 

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Nothing is reading hot, just alot of execess heat in the parts to get rid of. It really suprised me how long it took!!
It's amazing how long it takes the stuff to cool down. I want to put a post-turbo pyro in to use as my shutdown gauge. There are times after a hard pull the post will be hotter than the pre becuase the turbine is still smokin hot, and the main reason for shut-down EGT's is to protect the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yahoo, I guess my truck doesn't Babette high idle enabled. I tried orthos morning and it just stayed idling at about 8-900 rpm. How do I get it enabled, or can I?
 

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Yahoo, I guess my truck doesn't Babette high idle enabled. I tried orthos morning and it just stayed idling at about 8-900 rpm. How do I get it enabled, or can I?
Your local dealer can enable it (If they're nice then they'll do it for free since it's super simple with their scan tool), or if you know someone that has a tuner then most of them can enable it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My local dealer is a jerk!! Anyone with a tuner in Oklahoma City?
 

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My local dealer is a jerk!! Anyone with a tuner in Oklahoma City?
I hear ya there!! Mine wanted 80.00 to do it!! One of the reasons I NEVER buy anything from them! Same guys that charged my wife 140.00 for a 90.00 cab light kit! Frickin crooks

Chris
 
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