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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2014 that i just replaced the batteries on. Prior to changing the battery everything was normal but since changing the batteries the wait to start light will not come on. It had always came on before i changed the batteries no matter what the outside temperature or coolant temperature was. It still starts up like always and everything else is working just as it was before. No error codes or CEL. I just want to make sure there isn't something i may need to address before it starts to get cold.
 

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White Lightning
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Did you disconnect both batteries when changing, or just one at a time?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
One at a time. Driver side first, passenger side last. I just checked all my connections coming off both batteries. All are clean and tight.
 

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The passenger side battery feeds the heater grid solenoid mounted on the inner fender. I’d be checking those connections closely.
 

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White Lightning
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The passenger side battery feeds the heater grid solenoid mounted on the inner fender. I’d be checking those connections closely.
This........

But my primary concern was that he might have popped one of those funky looking 250A fuses on the positive battery cable(s).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. I’ll check into both of your suggestions tomorrow. I had no issues swapping the driver side, but the passenger side positive cable was giving me some trouble, plus being in an awkward position trying to set the battery down in there.

I never noticed a “funky 250A fuse” but I wasn’t really paying much attention to anything other than trying not to snag all the extra wires from lights and other junk the previous owner had installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Solenoid has power but test light was very dim compared to how bright it was on the post that actually comes from the battery. Had power whether key was off, acc, and run... not sure if that’s right or not. And I’m assuming since the solenoid was receiving plenty of power from the battery that the funky fuses (that i finally located) are fine.
 

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If it’s not as bright as the battery you’d better get a volt meter. Something isn’t right. It should have full battery voltage and big amps.
Yes, it should have voltage regardless of key position. After confirming full battery voltage to that side of the relay, have someone run the ignition switch while you check for voltage leaving the relay heading for the heater grid if temps dictate grid operation.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If temps dictate grid operation... see that’s the problem I’m having. The light in the dash has always came on regardless of temps. I’ve read on other forums that 60+ means no light and at certain other temps dictate how long the heater must run in order to start. But I have no way to test that theory about temps until it starts getting cool.

But, I can still put a volt meter to it and see what I’m getting.
 

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You might try removing the battery cable connections on both batteries and resetting all the controls by joining the pos and neg together. Using a twist tie or rubber band to hold one set together while you hold the other side. These newer (well sort of newer) vehicles are really wierd. Had the battery in my wife's GMC Terrain go bad and when I replaced the battery the AC wouldn't blow cold air, but the cooling lines under the hood were ice cold. Made an appointment with the dealer to have it looked at and started it up to go to the garage the morning of my appointment and tried the AC and it blew cold air.
 

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As I recall, my '17 always wants me to wait, regardless of temperature.
And I never wait, regardless of temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Put a volt meter to it and was getting 3.87 volts once key was turned to run. Once key was shut off I still had 3.87 volts.

Unhooked both batteries and let it sit for a few minutes, hooked it back up and still have no “wait to start” light. However the lightening bolt that had been popping up before i started the truck no longer pops up.
 

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As I recall, my '17 always wants me to wait, regardless of temperature.
And I never wait, regardless of temperature.
Mines all over the map. No waiting on a cold day, waiting forever on a warm day. It never seems to complain about it.
 

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Put a volt meter to it and was getting 3.87 volts once key was turned to run. Once key was shut off I still had 3.87 volts.

Unhooked both batteries and let it sit for a few minutes, hooked it back up and still have no “wait to start” light. However the lightening bolt that had been popping up before i started the truck no longer pops up.
Do you get 12 volts now? Which side of the solenoid are you checking? It should be the battery side.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I’m checking the only post that has power coming out of it. Obviously the post going IN to the solenoid from the battery has 12 volts but the only other hot post on it is 3.87/3.88
 
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