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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My 2007 5.9L has 245K miles on it. Original everything under the hood as far as I know (purchased at 100K miles).
It is slow to start even after sitting a day (not batteries, cranks fine).
Lots of white smoke upon starting as seen in the video.
Have a bit of blowby as seen in the video.
Good bit of "haze" coming out of the breather tube on the driver's side.

I know at 240K, I'm basically due injectors, and I'm OK with that (original Bosch or BBI only, got it). I'm concerned I guess with putting $3K worth of injectors on this knowing it may have other internal issues (cracked rings seems quite common). If something lets go inside after putting new injectors in, do I risk messing those up? Should I put the new injectors in and see how it is after that? If I pull the head to "check things out", well, I'm not pulling it that far apart with 240K and not doing a rebuild...so that's pretty much a guaranteed rebuild if it comes that far.

I know there's a handful of different reasons that I could have blowby, and a few of those reasons include rebuilding the engine.

Any other easy things to check first?

Getting a little ahead of myself here, I'm competent enough to handle that rebuild if I needed to, and have all the measurement tools etc. I'm wondering if it's worth the price to get a shortblock/longblock already built, once you factor in all the machining etc. that would go into a rebuild. Who has done the math on this?

Miller's Machine Shop is fairly local, about 1 hour away.

Not sure who else has a good reputation in the South-Central PA/MD area.

Thank you.

 

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I was concerned about the health of my 03 when I went to do injectors. It had a HORRIBLE knock (turned out to be fuel knock from injectors, just wanted to be sure) but not the symptoms you have. I sent in an oil analysis to see if there was any abnormal wear metals present in the oil to feel more confident investing in injectors. Oil analysis was fine, through in new injectors and all is well.

If I was in your situation I would send in an oil sample and pull the injectors to do a compression test. The results of those two tests should help steer you in the right direction confidently.

That’s my 2 cents and good luck! I feel ya.

Also, have you confirmed what you experiencing is actually blowby and not a product of a PVC maintenance issue? My old mans truck was smoking/hazing out the oil cap and vent tube but it was not blow by, just a plugged crank case vent filter. Although his engine has been ran with a shitty air filter for over a decade and has other issues because of it.


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Discussion Starter #3
I was concerned about the health of my 03 when I went to do injectors. It had a HORRIBLE knock (turned out to be fuel knock from injectors, just wanted to be sure) but not the symptoms you have. I sent in an oil analysis to see if there was any abnormal wear metals present in the oil to feel more confident investing in injectors. Oil analysis was fine, through in new injectors and all is well.

If I was in your situation I would send in an oil sample and pull the injectors to do a compression test. The results of those two tests should help steer you in the right direction confidently.

That’s my 2 cents and good luck! I feel ya.
Oil analysis would be a great idea is Blackstone "the" place to go?

I've seen people doing a manometer test, but, have read that a compression test is really difficult on these trucks. I've done it on gassers easy. Do you have a link to the procedures for that?

Also, have you confirmed what you experiencing is actually blowby and not a product of a PVC maintenance issue? My old mans truck was smoking/hazing out the oil cap and vent tube but it was not blow by, just a plugged crank case vent filter. Although his engine has been ran with a shitty air filter for over a decade and has other issues because of it.
I have not, but willing to try pretty much everything to eliminate potential problems. Is that the valve cover breather? I read something a long while back about something in the valve cover that was non-serviceable and required a new valve cover...or did I misread something.

Valve lash could be something too I'm seeing.
 

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does the smoke & blowby ever go away?
 

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Hate to tell you blow by that bad at idle on 06-07 3rd gen with bad injectors, evident by white/blue smoke hard start , is damaged rings/possibly pistons, STOP running it or more damage will occur.
If rebuilding entire engine no need to really test, but could test compression test same as gasser, just need 500 psi gauge and 9007A 9007 Compression Test Adapter.
rerings/bearings seals r&r head if no other big issues $2k-3k stock rebuild on engine using Cummins parts and you doing it , by me double that at shop.
Can search local forums for reputable shop by you Chapter Forums
 

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I tried searching for the answers before posting this but I just dont have the time to keep diving into it atm... so I'll just toss this out there, dave88lx maybe you can go research this more and draw your own conclusion...

the amount of blowby you have, you may have a cylinder with stuck rings and you definitely have leaky injectors... since your potentially looking at a rebuild, you can try using the stiction eliminator in the crankcase and a quart of the ATF on the injectors in the fuel. The stiction eliminator reduced my oil usage from 3~4 qts in ~7k miles down to 1 qt in 10k miles. Back then I suspected stuck rings and gave it a shot. Was surprised at how well the motor started running after having the SE in there for a while, 1 qt goes in now every oil change.


On the injector side, the mix (atf/2SO) has kept my injectors (and many others) running well without issues (for a daily driven, unloaded truck) and it cant be recommended enough from me (and others). I bumped a thread earlier looking for a thread where the ATF was used as a cleaner, was looking for a specific thread where rgsauger talked about what it did for his truck. I dont recall if it did anything more than fix white smoke & rough idle.

Anyways, tossing that out there, if your looking at a rebuild you could dump in a larger amount of the ATF to a smaller amount of fuel and see if that will clear the injectors, the SE will take time to work, for me it was 3~5k miles before it was clear there was a reduction in oil usage and I think it was on the 2nd oil change where it stabilized at the continued 1 qt/10k miles level.

~123k miles on current injectors, whole life lived on the mix... 60~80k miles now with the SE every oil change. And... the whole "hook it up to a heavy load" thing applies still... motor will run a tad bit better after sustained high rpm runs or towing a heavier load (3~5k in my case)
 
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Discussion Starter #9
does the smoke & blowby ever go away?
The exhaust smoke appears to go away once the truck is warmed up.
Once the truck is warmed up, I have a noticeable haze from the tube up front. Especially noticeable if I'm driving around, then stop somewhere. You see it kind of all over.
 

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Humm... well the SE might be worth the shot... Did this all of a sudden start or was it a gradual thing that occurred?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Hate to tell you blow by that bad at idle on 06-07 3rd gen with bad injectors, evident by white/blue smoke hard start , is damaged rings/possibly pistons, STOP running it or more damage will occur.
If rebuilding entire engine no need to really test, but could test compression test same as gasser, just need 500 psi gauge and 9007A 9007 Compression Test Adapter.
rerings/bearings seals r&r head if no other big issues $2k-3k stock rebuild on engine using Cummins parts and you doing it , by me double that at shop.
Can search local forums for reputable shop by you Chapter Forums
I appreciate the replies...sorry for the slow answers. Getting a little at a time while I'm here at work.

Would this be the $130 tool on this page?

I found this link below that seems to offer a pretty good explanation on running a compression test.

This link goes over some of the test kits.
What would be a decent, reliable, non-generic gauge that's not the $150 OTC? I know OTC makes good stuff, I have their ball joint kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I tried searching for the answers before posting this but I just dont have the time to keep diving into it atm... so I'll just toss this out there, dave88lx maybe you can go research this more and draw your own conclusion...

the amount of blowby you have, you may have a cylinder with stuck rings and you definitely have leaky injectors... since your potentially looking at a rebuild, you can try using the stiction eliminator in the crankcase and a quart of the ATF on the injectors in the fuel. The stiction eliminator reduced my oil usage from 3~4 qts in ~7k miles down to 1 qt in 10k miles. Back then I suspected stuck rings and gave it a shot. Was surprised at how well the motor started running after having the SE in there for a while, 1 qt goes in now every oil change.


On the injector side, the mix (atf/2SO) has kept my injectors (and many others) running well without issues (for a daily driven, unloaded truck) and it cant be recommended enough from me (and others). I bumped a thread earlier looking for a thread where the ATF was used as a cleaner, was looking for a specific thread where rgsauger talked about what it did for his truck. I dont recall if it did anything more than fix white smoke & rough idle.

Anyways, tossing that out there, if your looking at a rebuild you could dump in a larger amount of the ATF to a smaller amount of fuel and see if that will clear the injectors, the SE will take time to work, for me it was 3~5k miles before it was clear there was a reduction in oil usage and I think it was on the 2nd oil change where it stabilized at the continued 1 qt/10k miles level.

~123k miles on current injectors, whole life lived on the mix... 60~80k miles now with the SE every oil change. And... the whole "hook it up to a heavy load" thing applies still... motor will run a tad bit better after sustained high rpm runs or towing a heavier load (3~5k in my case)
Humm... well the SE might be worth the shot... Did this all of a sudden start or was it a gradual thing that occurred?
Thanks for all that info. Can't hurt to try right?

Be interesting to see if that helps free anything up. I mainly just don't want to ruin the chance of ruining my engine as a good core, or to be able to rebuild later. That's why I'd be OK with putting injectors in a tired engine, assuming the engine itself is OK to continue on. I'd be able to put the new injectors into the new build.

It's been a gradual thing, getting worse.
 

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with it being gradual, seems to me something didnt all of a sudden break, If I were in your shoes and this was my truck, I'd try the SE and do the mix in the fuel. I've seen what the ATF & SE do for the motor and its a regular part of my trucks day to day operation. Back when I had the 4 qt issue I had doubts that I'd make it to 500k (my goal before motor teardown) and now with the way it runs, I think that 500k goal is too low, will probably make it to 600k if not more. It shows signs of age dont get me wrong but it is stable in how it runs day in & day out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I suppose I should run the leakdown test as well...and get/build a manometer.

forget the compression test.
they're unaccurate as hell on a diesel, batts pull down too much on later cyl's to produce accurate comparison tests. starter also heats up and doesn't spin the engine as fast on later cyl's.

diesel compression test is lots of work for unconcise indefinite results.

run a leakdown test. tells you more about the condition of the rings, cracked pistons, valve/seat seal

best is manometer combustion gases blowby test. I like to run on cold and then hot engine. Cummins spec is for engine at op. temp.
beyond spec. wear will show first on excessive blowby on cold engine, not heat expanded to seal.

broken rings, cracked pistons, scored damaged cyl walls will show excessive BB cold and hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Auto Zone had it in stock.
Picked up the two items recommended on their site.
I know you all were talking about ATF/2SO, but figured I'd give this a shot since it was there.
If it sucks I'll hit up the ATF/2SO (unless I should anyways).

I imagine I should wait until after the oil sample to add this stuff right.

I don't know if I have the energy to do a blowby and compression test before and after running it.


IMG_20201002_214348_321.jpg
 

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2 different problems 2 different attempts to solve each... do both now if your going to do it... hotshots for potential fix on blowby & mix for white smoke...
 

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I appreciate the replies...sorry for the slow answers. Getting a little at a time while I'm here at work.

Would this be the $130 tool on this page?

I found this link below that seems to offer a pretty good explanation on running a compression test.

This link goes over some of the test kits.
What would be a decent, reliable, non-generic gauge that's not the $150 OTC? I know OTC makes good stuff, I have their ball joint kit.
Yes that's the adapter but should only be $93 for Dealer tool 9007A, Adapter, Compression Test - Mopar Essential Tools and Service Equipment
For non commercial use kit , something like Performance Tool W89735 should work.
Only thing I would add is should run three 10 second test per cylinder to get average.
have a clean work area , small pry bar to remove injector and barring tool for leak down and reseting valve adjustment.
info here for injector removal Fuel Injectors for 2003 and Newer HPCR Engines - Injector Removal and Replacement - Geno's Garage
 

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i looked into the performance to kit and it seems to not work for our engine. reviewers on 2 sites mentioned there is no schrader valve to latch in peak pressure. seems like the adapter plus the right hose with valve to a suitable gauge should get the right readings. just need to bleed off the pressure when done on each cylinder.

@rghavana were there any other kits found during your search?

edit: one user said the harbor freight kit was identical, here is a link, pic shows the bleed valve...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm not a big fan of HF for things like that anyways. I've learned long ago that spending money on inferior tools isn't worth it in the long run.

Have to pause on this, all the windows stopped working, so I need to address this first.

Always something.
 
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