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I prefer beads over balance rings due to cost. Also, the beads are in the optimal position being out as far from the center of the wheel assembly as possible. I don’t like the idea of putting a ring between the wheel and brake rotor and trying to balance from a position the size of a brake rotor when the issue is nearer the tread.
Anything is better than lead weights though.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Just for fun, lower the rear tires to around 50 psi and see if it changes anything. IMHO, this is too much for an empty truck. In my truck, I've never had any vibration issues and run 45-47 psi in the back, tire wear is even across the tread.

Sam
well these are my third set of tires all running the same air pressure and , these are the ONLY one's with this vibration issue
so I doubt its an air pressurizer thing, but never know, this I am sure of, but I also shouldn;'t have to, as what IF I wished to tow heavy, tires should not vibrate due to air in them IMO!


and I do have some weight in bed and with a cap on back, so added air isn't as big as if I was totally empty in bed!
I am basically running air as low as I can without tripping TPS, as I cannot find anyone near me to adjust things to go lower , or I maybe would run lower LOL

like I said before, I ONLY got these Coopers, due to how poorly the other coopers lasted, the cooper rep gave the to me at pretty much half price to compensate me for getting bad coppers the first time and these sadly are proving to be more of a BAD tire issue IMO!
I am NOT impressed with them at all right mow
and I owned a few dozen sets of cooper tires over the decades and they all were much better tires, than these last two sets!
quality doesn;t seem to be what it was!
 

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well these are my third set of tires all running the same air pressure and , these are the ONLY one's with this vibration issue
so I doubt its an air pressurizer thing, but never know, this I am sure of, but I also shouldn;'t have to, as what IF I wished to tow heavy, tires should not vibrate due to air in them IMO!


and I do have some weight in bed and with a cap on back, so added air isn't as big as if I was totally empty in bed!
I am basically running air as low as I can without tripping TPS, as I cannot find anyone near me to adjust things to go lower , or I maybe would run lower LOL

like I said before, I ONLY got these Coopers, due to how poorly the other coopers lasted, the cooper rep gave the to me at pretty much half price to compensate me for getting bad coppers the first time and these sadly are proving to be more of a BAD tire issue IMO!
I am NOT impressed with them at all right mow
and I owned a few dozen sets of cooper tires over the decades and they all were much better tires, than these last two sets!
quality doesn;t seem to be what it was!
My TPMS stays tripped. I ignore it.

I just push the left and right buttons when I'm getting set up for a drive. Used to it. Don't bother me in the least.

Hit the Exhaust brake button, take two seconds to get rid of annoying TPMS flash, fasten seat belt, etc. It helps to put the truck in gear. I noticed that.

And 70 lbs pressure is masochistic. I run 50 and I'm thinking about dropping that. 60 in front, 50 in back.

At 70 psi and if you don't have excellent shocks, that wheel is bouncing more than the shocks can dampen sometimes.

One thing abnout lowering the tire pressure -- It's cheap.

And yeah, I've been hearing not-so-good things about Cooper for a few years now. Used to be highly regarded. To me, when it's time, it's gonna be Bridgestone, Michelin or Toyo. Toyo would be first choice but I'm having some trouble finding those at Sam's right now for some reason. Oh well. Little tired of Sam's anyway. And I have at least another year to worry about it. Probably.

And who puts 1930's style weights on their tires and wheels these days? The sticky weights don't fly off for no reason and they don't ugly-up your setup.

whatev
 

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And who puts 1930's style weights on their tires and wheels these days? The sticky weights don't fly off for no reason and they don't ugly-up your setup.
There are a lot of things that people willingly put on their vehicles that I think are far uglier than clip-on wheel weights.

And mine don't fly off for any reason, let alone no reason. They stay exactly where I put them.
What's the secret? I simply use the correct weights for the wheel's profile.
 
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Discussion Starter #46
My TPMS stays tripped. I ignore it.

I just push the left and right buttons when I'm getting set up for a drive. Used to it. Don't bother me in the least.

Hit the Exhaust brake button, take two seconds to get rid of annoying TPMS flash, fasten seat belt, etc. It helps to put the truck in gear. I noticed that.

And 70 lbs pressure is masochistic. I run 50 and I'm thinking about dropping that. 60 in front, 50 in back.

At 70 psi and if you don't have excellent shocks, that wheel is bouncing more than the shocks can dampen sometimes.

One thing abnout lowering the tire pressure -- It's cheap.

And yeah, I've been hearing not-so-good things about Cooper for a few years now. Used to be highly regarded. To me, when it's time, it's gonna be Bridgestone, Michelin or Toyo. Toyo would be first choice but I'm having some trouble finding those at Sam's right now for some reason. Oh well. Little tired of Sam's anyway. And I have at least another year to worry about it. Probably.

And who puts 1930's style weights on their tires and wheels these days? The sticky weights don't fly off for no reason and they don't ugly-up your setup.

whatev
well my tpms icon on dash doesn't blink, it just stays on non stop if air gets low enough to trip, and I just find it annoying!
doesn;t matter what setting I make or change on dash, its there non stop

so I just live with running the higher air pressure
ride/handling is more than fine for me as is, not to say it couldnl;t be better!

and I think my next tires will be hankook's
I was on the fence of buying them when I got the first set of coopers, and only reason I went coopers over them was they were in the process of fazing out the ATM's which was what I wanted
and now they only have the new version, (the AT2)which is more mild a tread, which I wanted to wait on till the tire got some reviews
the crazy part is, they still list the ATM's even though when I talked to my dealer and then emailed them, they told me they don't make it no more??
SO< I didn;t want to buy and then if ever a bad flat be unable to replace just 1 tire, due to not being made anymore!!
but they were always very good long lasting tires , or all the sets I had were!
I do regret now not going to them, but as in life , we live and learn!
 

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There are a lot of things that people willingly put on their vehicles that I think are far uglier than clip-on wheel weights.

And mine don't fly off for any reason, let alone no reason. They stay exactly where I put them.
What's the secret? I simply use the correct weights for the wheel's profile.
Jimmy, do you have more information on wheel weight profile? I asked Discount Tire about that and they claimed to only have one profile. I read about different profiles online but couldn’t find a link to buy any. What they removed from the factory looked exactly like what they installed on the truck with the new tires. The factory weights never flew off though. I could watch some of Discount Tires weights coming loose so would walk around the truck every morning and hammer them back down. Didn’t work for long though.
My tires are slipping on the wheels. By the looks of the marks the tires are slipping while i brake.
 

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Jared, I don't remember off the top of my head, but I can check later today and let you know.

I'm amazed that Discount would tell you that they only have one kind. It's almost physically impossible to install a weight made for a steel wheel on most aluminum wheels, and one made for aluminum wheels couldn't be expected to stay put on a steel wheel.
Basic steel wheel weights are usually one type, until you get into truck and trailer wheels, but there's a lot of different ones for aluminum rims.

You need both types, right, or are you running all six steel?
 

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Alright, our aluminum wheels, whether the current Chinese version or Alcoa, should use MC weights.
I didn't write down what the basic steel wheel weights are on their box, since those are so obvious, and common.

Anyway, when balancing an aluminum wheel, I use this "cheat gauge" to find the best profile for the rim. I only have four assortments, though, as marked on the gauge
907168
.
 

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Alright, our aluminum wheels, whether the current Chinese version or Alcoa, should use MC weights.
I didn't write down what the basic steel wheel weights are on their box, since those are so obvious, and common.

Anyway, when balancing an aluminum wheel, I use this "cheat gauge" to find the best profile for the rim. I only have four assortments, though, as marked on the gauge View attachment 907168 .
Thanks Jimmy. I have all steel wheels. I don’t mind the weights as long as they stay put. I am worried about injuring someone when they fly off. They hit under the truck like bullets at 75 mph. Thankfully they hit my front flaps rather than the dually flares.
 

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Oh, I better get you the letters for the steel wheel ones, then. Stay tuned.

Okay, it's simply a "T". You could get by with using "P", but they aren't meant to work on a thicker steel wheel.
 
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Discussion Starter #52
Just a small update here as been busy(father had a stroke and some other heart problems and my mother fell down a flight of steps 2 days ago, so have other more important things going on)
a while back I marked tires on wheels, (as suggested here by a fellow member)and for w while NO movement, but YES< tries are moving on wheels
NO clue why exactly, running plenty of air, and front tires( were removed and mounted TWICE now!


but I sent Cooper an email and got a reply back today asking for more info

NOT really expecting much help from them, but figured couldn;lt hurt to ask them
also told them I am NOT very happy with my experience with these two sets of cooper tires! one only lasted HALF its warranty and these have been a issue since new almost!

I also guess road force balancing wouldn;t have solved things for me, so glad I didn;t pay for that YET? OR do the rubber beads in tire as I was also thinking of trying!


SO at least a little update here, if anyone cares, I didn;t forget or stop trying to resolve issue, just haven;'t had time to put truck in a shop or, with all I have going on with the family!
 

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Discussion Starter #54

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Thuren says too much caster can cause front driveline vibration at speed.

https://www.thurenfabrication.com/media/wysiwyg/THUREN_FAB_ALIGNMENT.pdf
That Thuren guide is pretty questionable. I wouldn't take it very seriously. For instance they say 0.1 degree of toe in is too much. That's crap. There needs to be a small amount of toe in to overcome the force acting against all of the steering components when rolling down the road. If it is set at 0 degrees when the system is static, it will be toed out some amount when rolling down the road. How much depends on how tight all of the components are.

The bit where they talk about caster seems to be for guys that run their wheels outside of the wheel wells, which drastically changes the scrub radius. Changing the caster is a bandaid for the horrific steering geometry that brings about. They also say you can change caster without a machine. Sure, guessing is the way to go.

Regarding the OP's problem, my guess is that one or more tires have a bad belt. If the tires are walking around on the rim, that could be due to the vibration. Vibration causes many strange things.
 

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Just do the airsoft pellets. These trucks are heavy and have great brakes. Mine are moving under braking forces. Not moving due to acceleration. If the tires move balancing with wights will never work unless the tires were perfect to begin with.
You could have the shop use zero lube to install the tires. Clean the lube thats there now. I have had a past shop use something that dried sticky where i was having issues with a trailer tire breaking its beads.
 
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