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Awesome, I can't wait to see this whole thing :thumbsup

Thanks again,
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Well Lets look at some Mods while were in here.[guitar]

Note I am in no way responsible if you do this and burn things up or get a ticket for excessive acceleration [coffee]

Lets start with fuel pins



Fuel pins do the same job as a cam plate on a P-7100 pump. They change how much fuel is delivered in relation ship with boost. As boost builds it pushes down on the diaphragm and pushes the pin down allowing more fuel. There is a spring under it that holds it up and is adjustable and can be set to speed up or slow down the fuel rate in relation to boost. turning the star wheel at the base clock wise will put less pressure on the spring allowing the fuel rate to increase at lower boost = more smoke at lower boost, Counter-clockwise will put more pressure on the spring and slowes the fuel rate at lower boost levels = less smoke at lower boost.





this is the small pin that rides on the fuel pin. It comes out from the front of the pump



the one on the left is a Bully Dog, center is stock, right is Denny T.



The stock one can bee turned were the eccentric cone is to the rear of the motor thus allowing the pin that rides on it to extend farther out and give more fuel. This is free and will give a noticeable bump in power.

The one on top is a Bully Dog the other is a Denny T. I ran both in my truck and found (like many others) that the Bully Dog made good power but was way to soft and gouged and would stick. The Denny T is maid from very hard SS and will just polish the area and is a lot cheaper. The Denny T pin gives a real boost in power over the Bully Dog and has held up great. DO NOT try to go cheep and make one from mild steel it wont last 100 miles if that[nonono]. There are others out there but I have not tryed them my self.



On the top cover (silver price on top of this pump) there is a Torx head screw that sets the starting depth of the fuel pin at 0psi boost. Ofter called the "Smoke Screw". It can be set deeper CW to give better take off power be for boost comes up but also creates more smoke. It can also be set for less low-no boost fuel and less smoke for pulling and or to compensate for large injectors to keep smoke under control.

 

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Discussion Starter #23
GSK = 366 Spring = 3200 Governor spring kit

4200 Kit also available.

Starting with throttle linkage and springs removed ( shown how to earlyer) but not needed if you are not replacing the shaft seal

Remove the 4 Allen head bolts that holds the top to the main case.



Slowly lift the top from the pump, you may hear a clock as the lever comes off of the full fuel screw but that's fine. The spring and other parts will not fly out just go slow. as it comes up you will See the spring and can remove it form the throttle rod and hold it while you set the top aside.





Then you can hold the "Top Hat" (pin with spring and washer that is connected to the other end of the gov spring) and remove the gov spring then the top hat.


This is how all the parts go together. Make sure you have them all.



while you are here you can grind the AFC lever to alow more fuel just like the fuel pin. This is not reversable and should be left to guys that want all out performance!! You can not go back

The pin is pointed at the AFC lever and can be ground down to alow for more fuel. The more you grind the more fuel you get to a point. Do at your own risk. The other is the Kill lever DO NOT cut it.



Installing of the new spring is just reverse of removing the old one.

The lever behind the gov spring is the one that the Full fuel screw pushes on and can be pulled toward the front of the pump with a small wire or string to clear the screw as the top is placed back on the pump if the screw was left in place. As you set the top on you can then remove the string or wire and finish installing the top. One other way is to note the depth of the full fuel screw and back it out till the tip is flush with the inside of the cover, as you cam see , this will alow the cover to set on the pump with no probs and then it can be placed back to the previously noted depth.





When you have it all back together remove the intake tube from the turbo and have a bord or some thing solid that you can place over the intake of the turbo to cut off the air and kill the motor incase of runaway.

DO NOT USE YOUR HAND
 

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When people grind their own fuel pin what exactly are they grinding?

Chris
 

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The way I understand it is you are grinding where the tap rides up and down the fuel pin. The more you grind the more fuel you get out of the pump. I haven't grinded mine yet. Haven't grown enough berries yet. With my luck I will grind to much and snap the thing in half. Wow did you guys see the groove worn in that bully dog pin??
 

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One question for 1stgen545. Why do you need to pull throttle linkage and springs off to get to the gov spring? If you don't need to change oring do you need to pull them off? One of these days I might try to change mine. With my stock converter I could use some more revs. I know I need a tight converter but working on turbo and exaust first.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You are correct you don't have to remove the linkage if you don't need to re-seal the shaft.

I would not wast my time grinding the stock pin there is not enough to gain.
 

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Now that we've got some pretty pictures of the inside of the VE.....
Does anyone have pictures of a modified AFC ??
Just to see the diff..
 

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By all rights, we may need to look at a title change as the thread is not focused on a rebuild. When a member searches for a "rebuild thread" and finds this, it's not on track with what is searched.

I will not change it myself, but will bring it up to the other web site mods and ask them.
 

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how do we get that denny t pin? il take 1 for sure! haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Going a little farther you can remove the governor assembly

1st remove the jam nut at the front of the pump and unscrew the shaft
slowly slide it out and then all the parts will be free and can be removed
Don't be afraid if the weights in the governor fall out they are easy to re assemble.











then You can remove the (2) 3 - sided studs on the side of the pump You can buy the tool from Bosch or you drive a 6-pint 1/2" socket over it and get it out. I suggest the correct socket. when they are removed then you can get the other levers out.







 

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Discussion Starter #35
To remove the roler ring you have to remove theis clip that covers a pin that holds a rod that links it to the KSB piston.







then you can remove the piston and ring







 

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Discussion Starter #36
Now you can remove the shaft

There is a small keyway that will fall out its fine it drives the (supply pump) vain pump inside.

You can also see the two Buffers that will need to be replaced.





this is the supply pump suport ring



Pump







here is the pump The small notches must go back to the inside and sould be placed in the same slot they came out of.

Then with the front seal removed you can see the two bushings that can be replaced if worn badly.


 

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Discussion Starter #37
now to dis asemble the top

first you will have to drive out the 2 BB's on the side
Just drive from one side till the BB falls out of the other side
Then drive the pin back to the side you started on till the other bb falls out.
Then the pin can be removed and teh AFC lever removed







then remove the allen plug from the front of the housing
youcan then remove the allen head plug that holds the O-ring in place around the small pin that rides on the Fuel pin.





 

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Excellent write up and photos......... :thumbsup
Thank you ...........
:)
 

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Thank you, Well Done!!:thumbsup:woot:

Great info. I'm going to place a copy of this in the tech article section.
 
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