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I am going to do a right up on how to go threw your VE with tons of pics and step-by-step of how to do it and what to watch out for and how to get more power out of it. I have been into one a few times before and its not as bad as many people think. This should also help any one with a leaky pump that needs to reseal it. I don't have time tonight but here is a preview of what's to come.:popcorn:



 

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WOW.............lifting jaw off floor! Thank you for taking the time and effort and care to do a true write-up on a dodge cummins VE refresh and upgrade. I am excited and will be printing this entire thread. Awesome.
 

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WOW.............lifting jaw off floor! Thank you for taking the time and effort and care to do a true write-up on a dodge cummins VE refresh and upgrade. I am excited and will be printing this entire thread. Awesome.
x2! Thats very awesome of you!
 

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It was already done, but your welcome to give a go at it. I have the manual version of volkwagon VE in a three ring binder which is better than keeping it on CD, but the CD's seem to be popular with todays crowd.

Be sure to keep all the parts that wear together/operate together.....well....together. If they are used, they have worn together and must be kept as such, unless you'll replace them all.

The Volkswagon site also sells the tools to take the pump apart and reassemble.
 

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It was already done, but your welcome to give a go at it.
Do you have a link? When my pump died I looked everywhere for a rebuild guide, to no avail. I asked on 5 different sites, and searched on more and came up with little to nothing.

Chris
 

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Sweet! good luck ...cant have too many of these write ups. Keep it up.
 

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i vote this gets sticky!

cant wait for you to get her done!
 

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Do you have a link? When my pump died I looked everywhere for a rebuild guide, to no avail. I asked on 5 different sites, and searched on more and came up with little to nothing.

Chris
I can look however I have not been there (to the VW site) in some time as I have the manual in a three ring binder and don't need the link myself.

It's a good read though as the assembly tips are given as well as to what tools you'll need for what task.

There are parts you have to keep together as parts that must be measured to index/adjust properly come time to reassemble. The trickiest item is the installation of the gov lever assy. One has to know how to install the springs and at the same time install the lver assy AND the pivot screws, at the same time. LOL:thumbsup

Torque specs are not all that important save for the hydraulic head plug. It's 55 lbs ft if I recall...........You'll know if your about to snap a screw. Just DON'T!

-S
 

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I know the link you're reffering to. The VW translated all pictorial deal. I seen that but some of the wording confused me a little bit. I am just excited that someone here is making the effort. That's just down rite cool.
 

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When its done will it have a 14mm h&r
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I wish. If I could find one I would.
 

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Go over to 1stgen.org and ask KTA he'll know where to get one
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sorry I haven't done it yet this is the first time I have been on in 5 Days and it will only be for a min and these things don't right them selves. I got very busy after the 1st post. Sorry to get every ones hopes up but i will do It as soon as I can.
 

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You get it done and it's up to snuff and I'd want to have your PayPal account so I could give you a few dollars... :w:

We need a detailed VE rebuild guide that isn't ripped off from a German VW 4-cylinder forum.
 

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Cool! This will probably be one for the tech section.:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well here goes.

This is not a FULL rebuild just enough to help out 99% of people that will get into there own pumps and need to re seal it and do some pump mods.

I am going to start with the pump removed. If You cant get the pump off You don't need to get inside it.

Well here is one thing you need to loosen the bolt with the small tab and remove the tab and snug up the bolt to lock the pump from spinning. Don't over do it it only has to be snug.



Well here the nasty thing is.







Here you can see the full fuel screw and lock nut on the bottom coming out of the back Just above it is the fuel return, you can also see the Idle adjustment screw and jam nut on the side of the pump. You can also see the Shut Down solenoid that is prone to failure. It can be removed and the spring and plunger taken out the reinstalled and use the manual shut down lever on the side of the pump. Above the fuel return is the Vent for the aneroid.



Lets start with the easy things remove the Allen head from the top of the throttle shaft and mark or note the position so that it can be indexed correctly when put back.




Remove the fuel pin and spring





 

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Discussion Starter #18
10 pic limmet

Then remove the 4 bolts that holt the top on the pump.



Then slowly remove the top and watch for the spring under the top. It will not just fly out. This is your govener spring and it is attached to the throtle shaft and should be disconected so that you can remove the top.





Then remove it from the "Top Hat" and remove all of it from the pump.



You can now push the throttle rod out of the top and replace the O-ring.



This is the lever that many people grind to get even more fuel it is the other end of the lever that rides on the fuel pin. The lever beside it is the manual Kill lever.



remove the nut but hold pressure on the lever so that it dose not slip. Mark how the Kill lever indexes to the shaft and then remove the lever, spring and washer. then you can you will see the o-ring and can replace it.





 

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Discussion Starter #19
You HAVE to keep the rollers and pins and thrust washers together.

Here you can see were they ride. The KSB pushes the black ring and rotates the rollers and advances your Timing buy making the cam plate ride up on the rollers and stroke the piston sooner in the rotation that pops the injector a few * sooner before TDC.







Now lets take the Head apart

This is how the piston fits in the head and builds the pressure. It also rotates like a distributor and delivers the fuel to the correct cylinder. It strokes every time the the cam plate rides up on the rollers.



You can remove the Shut down solenoid and replace the o-ring on the tip.



Then you can remove the DV's. YOU MUST KEEP ALL THE PARTS TOGETHER





 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I have a lot more but I dont have the time. There is about 3X more that what I have so far.
 
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