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Discussion Starter #1
to remove the pump could i jus unscrew the oil fill tube and take the nut off that way? or do i have to pull the whole gear cover off? and will the pump gear jus stay in place once i pull the pump?
 

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Just pull off the oil fill tube. The pump gear stays in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
10-4 on that one buddy!
 

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The oil fill tube is actually two pieces... Unbolt the strap that connects the top to the timing case, then the top piece unscrews from the bottom piece. With the top piece removed, the bottom piece has enough room to unscrew from the timing case.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cool i just bought a rebuild kit from ebay for 30 bucks i have a leaky pump head and it just keeps getin worse...o yea and i also bought a 13mm s wrench to get that one nut on the bottom!
 

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The idea behind the gear is that it simply rests on top the cam gear and sets inside/against the innards of the gear case. However, it seems to be a problem for many that it falls out of position. I honestly don't know what folks are doing, but it seems it moves a round in there and then find out the pump timing is a gear or more off.

If you leave it well enough alone it will not jump a tooth. Seriously, it won't. Just don't get rough with it and leave it be. It will remain in time.

Make sure you turn (bar) the engine so the gear's key way is about 2:00 position. You may need a mirror to see the very edge of it but it's visable with a strong light and a good eye, even w/the nut in place.
 

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Why 2:00? Why does the manual say 6:00? (I think it says 6:00...)
 

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With the engine at #1 TDC compression, the pump and engine are timed together. Yet, that puts that key/key way at the bottom. We really don't want that to fall out and down/into the case. So, 12:00 would work better, but with that, the key way is a bit tougher to see and the pump is sometimes turned a bit to the side so 12:00 really isn't thet top. 2:00 is. Its easy to see at the 2 position and the key will not fall. But, anything works better then at the bottom.

The engine and the pump don't have to be at their own TDC #1 position because the pump is keyed to the engine. It goes on only ONE WAY.
 

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No, that ain't true. I managed to reinstall mine a couple wrong ways. :lol3:
 

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Wow. Did you manage to sheer the key off or push it out and into the timing case?

I sent a pump back to a fellow in Southern Cal who e-mailed me information about the bum pump work, only turned oiut to be he too installed the pump wrong. sheering off the key when he jammed the gear back onto the pump drive.

It's gotta be right on when the pump is slid onto the mounting studs and at the same time I hold/slide the gear onto the shaft. The puller bolts can be reinstalled into the gear hub to provide a hand hold to manipulate and index the gear onto the drive shaft.
 

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cool i just bought a rebuild kit from ebay for 30 bucks i have a leaky pump head and it just keeps getin worse...o yea and i also bought a 13mm s wrench to get that one nut on the bottom!
Do you have a link for this rebuild kit? I am in the market for one. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i got it on e bay
 

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ebay auction # 170218290954
 

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The seal kit for our pumps is Bosch number DGK-121.

There's a difference between putting new seals in a pump and rebuilding a pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
the nut that holds the pump on is it a right hand thread or left? and what is the most important thing i should keep in mind when taking it off and putting it back on any tips would be great thanks!
 
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