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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, not sure how many people will do this, but I was really getting sick and tired of trying to position flashlights, magnetic lights, etc on the hood, on the batteries, cradled between wires, in my mouth, and other various places when needing more light in the engine compartment.

My OEM hood light (I understand some trucks come with the wiring kit and some don't) was a failure. The mount/unit was broken, the bulb was out, as well, it was quite worthless for pretty much anything. I had power to it so I figured it's time to do something about it.

I see rock lights all the time on mall crawler trucks that light up the underbody and ground. I have no use to light up underneath my truck, but figured these might fit the bill for under the hood.

I bought a 4-pack on Amazon:


I also bought a on-off push button switch:


My initial thought was, "Man it would be sweet to be able to turn this off and on when I wanted"

After some more research and tearing the original switch housing apart, it's apparent that it works with gravity...from what I saw looks like at a certain angle the bulb basically "rolls" down enough to make contact with the leads in the housing, then your bulb lights up. I understand a lot of hoods used to have mercury in the system to make this happen, but this one was all mechanical. There is no momentary switch that the hood triggers.

So, this system does not light up when the hood opens and closes, you have to turn it on/off via your switch of choice.

Once the housing was apart, I got looking at that connecter. I hate that connector. It had to go. With a little bit of tinkering, I was able to pry the keeper off the face of the switch (white part):
927102


Once you do that you can see the insides. I thought the connecters looked very familiar to the Amp connectors I use a lot for my own wiring solutions, so I figured I'd see if I could release the terminals and re-use them in one of my 2-spot Amp connectors. There is a small tab you need to release (push down) shown by the arrow:

927104


You can get to it using a flathead jewelers screwdriver in the orientation shown:

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Those connectors will now plug directly into the male amp connecter. They lock in place and everything. Note that you can just cut the wires and add whatever connector you want if you don't want to deal with the above, but it saved a couple of terminals so why not. Shown without the red snap lock that keeps the terminals in place:

927106


Next I got rid of my sagging, tattered hood insulation. Next step was to decide where to mount the rock lights. This was a bit tricky. Our hoods aren't just a single piece of sheetmetal, they are reinforced with ribs. This is a good thing because it gives somewhere to mount these lights. You don't want to mount it on a flat surface under the hood, because when you open it, the lights will be shining back in your eyes. So I marked a couple locations on the radii of the ribs where I could basically rotate the light on to see where it would best fit and point down at the engine bay.

This image kind of shows what I'm talking about:

927107


The ribs also provide enough room behind them to run a sheetmetal screw up through them without actually running into/touching the hood.

Here's where I decided that I would mount the lights in 4x spots. First pic is 3 of them done, 4th one not yet mounted, wiring isn't ran yet. 2nd photo, all mounted up and wired in:

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You can see where I mounted my toggle switch:

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I chose to interrupt the pos+ wire with the toggle. Since you lose the "gravity" activation of the OEM unit, you need a way to cut the power. You could also wire in a momentary switch activated by the hood as well as a toggle switch like this, that way it would come on when the hood was open as well, yet you could still manually turn it off. I was fine with just the toggle, I can walk the extra foot around the truck to get to it.

New connection:

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Here's a shot with them on:

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I'll follow up with a couple night shots later when it gets dark, but I have a feeling these are going to really light up the bay.

I checked and double checked when I was doing the installation that I had no interference with any of the lights on any engine parts. The lower 2 clear everything no issues. the upper 2 (closer to the latch) seem to clear everything but they are a bit closer to the plastic piece that's in front of the fan shroud that runs the battery cables. Doesn't seem to be any interference though with it fully latched so that's a plus.

Light is def something I take for granted when working after hours on this thing, so glad I finally have something that's actually useful under there.
 

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Nice! Looking forward to hearing how the light is at night...

I picked up these for the shed, solar powered battery charger (12v auto) and run thru a timer switch to auto shut off... if I ever finish the install...


When working on it in the garage... my new best friend...

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Alright here's some dusk shots, not completely dark.
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927120


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Unfortunately, the photos with them off doesn't justify the amount of daylight. It looks brighter outside than it really is (phone is compensating). With the lights on is more accurate to how dark it currently is. All of these photos were taken consecutively, back to back.

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I can say I'm VERY satisfied with how bright these are. Very stoked to be able to see what I'm doing under there now!
 

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Are you putting your hood liner back or just leaving it? Mine are so haggered I was thinking of removing mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Are you putting your hood liner back or just leaving it? Mine are so haggered I was thinking of removing mine.
It's gone forever, went in the garbage.
 
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It's gone forever, went in the garbage.
That's what I'm going to do. I would like to replace the firewall one with something better and better looking
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's what I'm going to do. I would like to replace the firewall one with something better and better looking
I ripped out the firewall insulation as well before my big project last spring when I chased down my gear housing leak. Well, as much as I could get to without removing the engine.

Haven't noticed a difference with it there or without it.
 
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Wow thats bright! That looks awesome... How is the view farther into the engine compartment or looking up from below?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow thats bright! That looks awesome... How is the view farther into the engine compartment or looking up from below?
Not sure, haven't crawled under there to look. It I get a chance this week to try at night I'll report back
 

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Nice job! Looks great!
 

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Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
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since i'm sure some poeple might appreciate it, i wonder if @Jimmy07 knows the Molex part numbers to make the correct factory connector here, but if not i did find the correct wire harness that you could get to wire into and make a factory appearance kit out of. Only $35 for it, if Jimmy sees this i'm sure he'll find the connector for a fraction of just this and you can build your own harness with the factory connector

 

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Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
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I'm thinking i might also look under my hood some time in my spare time that i can never find, and see about doing something similar on my 18 while retaining the underhood mat. Wouldn't want to loose points for the mat being gone in a car show or something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
since i'm sure some poeple might appreciate it, i wonder if @Jimmy07 knows the Molex part numbers to make the correct factory connector here, but if not i did find the correct wire harness that you could get to wire into and make a factory appearance kit out of. Only $35 for it, if Jimmy sees this i'm sure he'll find the connector for a fraction of just this and you can build your own harness with the factory connector

That factory connector is such a PITA anyway to get undone. When I decided to do this I wanted waterproof connecters that were readily available, easy to replace if I need to change the harness I made, but most of all, being able to disconnect without doing a dance and sacrificing a small animal.

It's an upgrade to me! You can always remove the pins from the connector like I did, and if you sell the truck, put them back in the OEM connector
 
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since i'm sure some poeple might appreciate it, i wonder if @Jimmy07 knows the Molex part numbers to make the correct factory connector here, but if not i did find the correct wire harness that you could get to wire into and make a factory appearance kit out of. Only $35 for it, if Jimmy sees this i'm sure he'll find the connector for a fraction of just this and you can build your own harness with the factory connector

It’s Yazaki 7287-3616-10
Terminals are 7116-4102-02
Wire seals are 7158-3030-50
All good connectors will have a secondary terminal position assurance lock, and the one on this connector is pretty simple.
Since Yazaki suppliers are notorious for minimum order quantities, you would be better of getting the mopar pigtail kit, or some other sealed two way connector like krash used.
 

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Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
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That factory connector is such a PITA anyway to get undone. When I decided to do this I wanted waterproof connecters that were readily available, easy to replace if I need to change the harness I made, but most of all, being able to disconnect without doing a dance and sacrificing a small animal.

It's an upgrade to me! You can always remove the pins from the connector like I did, and if you sell the truck, put them back in the OEM connector
Ah, that's where you've been messing up. An annual sacrifice of a medium sized animal (like a goat) annually actually makes those connectors much easier to deal with One medium sized animal a year and your in the clear.
 

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It’s Yazaki
Yazaki... Ugh.
Why do these have to difficult to get ahold of? I spent the better part of Monday tracking down the connectors and trying to order them so I can build a modified transmission harness. The Mopar connector repair kits all seemed to have pig tails and I simply do not want additional solder joints or splices.
 

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Man, those really look good! Great....another item added to my Amazon shopping list, lol. Thanks for the write up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Man, those really look good! Great....another item added to my Amazon shopping list, lol. Thanks for the write up.
Anytime, glad it could help!
 
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Looks great. Added to my Amazon list as well. Also +1 for the great Amazon review!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looks great. Added to my Amazon list as well. Also +1 for the great Amazon review!
Haha thanks. I always look for reviews from people wanting to do the same thing as me but never find them, so figured I'd add a review to cover the bases!
 
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