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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys, i was thinking of building my own set of twins and using the stocker.. i was wondering what the ball park price is gonna be, what would be best for a big turbo....and what size exhaust housings i should use? the truck is going to be towing heavy loads (hog trailer 14k) i want big power, minimal smoke, and to be able to pull heavy loads..:hyper:
 

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I've talked to a couple guys that deal twins and they say that any set of twins will be laggier than your stock turbo if you don't turn the fuel way up. Once you turn the fuel up more, you'll get more smoke. I always read that twins give you small turbo spool up with large turbo top end. But when you actually talk to the guys, they'll tell you that twins also have more lag than the stock turbo.
 

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you could do somthing like hx35/14 and then a ht3b/26 on top but like stated above your gunna need more fuel and studs i would think...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
you're right, but fuel's the easy part:thumbsup

I've done some more research and think i'm gonna go with the ht3b.

what modifications to the head would have to be done to hold this pressure?
i know studs, but what about Oring/firerings?
 

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I have heard from people that if your going to be driving it alot, and keep the boost at or under 80psi then you want Orings. I guess firerings dont last as long as Orings, but do hold more boost. You also probly want to get some ARP headstuds too. Then im pretty sure your bulletproof haha
 

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I don't think you're going to like having twins when you're towing... When you're towing heavy like that, the fuel that it would require to spool twins is gonna be more fuel than you want to blow out the tailpipe. I upgraded to a Super B single under the notion that it would spool quicker than the stock. It's not true. It takes more fuel to spool the Super B single than the stock turbo and it didn't tow very well at all. When I loaded my pickup down (real heavy) I had a real hard time making full boost and I got a lot of black smoke. I called up BD and they sent me a one of a kind smaller turbine housing that makes the Super B spool a lot quicker than the normal Super B. It tows a LOT better now and doesn't hardly make any black smoke. If it took my electronically controlled Cummins that much effort to spool just ONE (slightly) bigger turbo, I could only imagine what it would take an older rotary pumped Cummins. Just my two cents..
 

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You'll never cool 400HP with a single in a 12V tow rig. It ain't gonna happen without alot of water anyhow. I built my set with a 12cm off an bad HX35 on my H1C and ground out the divider to gate both sides of the manifold. Also ported the manifold and housing as far as I felt comfortable with. Then dumped it into a HT3B/26cm open throat. Works quite nice. It's a farmboy set of twins but it's very functional and I can spool them to 50psi on stock injectors with no AFC. I can't even break 1000* with the stockers in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
cumminspride,

where'd you get your hotpipe and mounting brackets for primary turbo? also the oil lines and such...
 

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I made everything and the oil line is some black high temp oil pressure line from NAPA with fittings I dug out of bins and made fit. It looks pretty good really. I still haven't ground down and sanded the welds on the cold pipes to paint them though. So it's really not DONE but it's good enough to tool around in.

The bottom mount I made from 1/4" flat stock and bolted it to the motor mount flange where the trans heat exchanger used to bolt. It bolts to the drain flange that I also made.

The drains are 3/4" silicone heater hose and they "T" right at the stock drain. The "T" I made from the left over drain tubing that I cut off the H1C. I cut the pieces out with a cut off tool and brazed them together. It is very open and is more of a "Y" fitting so the oil doesn't back up into the turbo.

I also made the flanges out of 3/8-8" channel I had and cut what I needed out of the center. That includes the plate on the back of the HX housing and the B3's flange. Then I welded the two flanges together at the base of the HX. I then used the first 90* off the old down pipe to make the bend. It worked easilly with some hammer negotiations.

As for the gaskets, I had a sheet of copper here that was pretty thin so I tapped out all the gaskets I needed and still no leaks. I didn't even have my flanges machined.

I made a trip to here index and bought a truck bed full of pipe and silicone hump hoses and turbo flanges and straps and a chrome 5" stack for $60. So all in all I have maybe 350 in my twins including the bad HX I bought to get the 12cm gated housing($75) and the BIG CAM CUMMINS TURBO (the B3) from ebay that they didn't know what it was($98) lines and fittings and drain hose at NAPA($90) Refill on the welding gas($35) and the bandaids for all the bloody knuckles($7) electricity to run the lights and welder($25).

Anyhow you can do the math but my spare time is worth nothing to me when Im making my truck faster than yours! :butt: JK I do like the expressions on peoples face though when I eat their 24V for lunch!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
you got any pics cumminspride?? i'd like to c your setup, and your rusty hotrod!! lol
 

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Yeah, I have pics and I just got one of those photo bucket accounts. I will get them loaded up there but I have to get on a buddies computer because mine doesn't read my mini discs that my camera uses. I'll post a link to the bucket in my sig when it's all loaded.
 
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