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1. you need an adaptor unless your a good welder...
2. it WILL hit your shock tower...
3. no, no fueling mods are needed to run the turbo...
4. you know the little elbow that claps to your turbo? youll need another one... clamp them together to make an "s" if you will back down to your intercooler
5. there are oil drain line mods...
6. good buy!!! you wont be sorry!

i can get you more pix or info if need be just pm me...
 

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unless you get a manifold like this then there shouldnt be shock tower clearance issues and maybe less piping issues...



 

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i dont really recommend that manifold tho.. these 12valves run hot on #1 as it is...
 

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no just a lil homemade piece lol i aint found anything to stop me yet haha
 

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but anyways if you need help with your build just let me know haha ill be around...
 

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the he351ve flange is a wgmt or wgme..something like that, not a T4. yes, you have to build an adapter (i wouldn't recommend welding it to the manifold). or you have to plug the holes on the turbo and redrill.

the 4-2 exhaust manifolds sound like crap..that's why we get rid of them on third gens..plus you'd still have to build an adapter.


catstacks, is that a front main seal leak? looks more like an oil leak from a headgakset or most likely the KDP :shock:
an wats wrong with welding?


oil pan, front main, front cover, vaccuum pump gaskets...
my tranny is f'd in the A so oil leaks are the least of my problems... all i gotta do is make the 989 mile trip back home... that may be my trucks last run...:confused013:
 

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Front main seal leak maybe? Thats a pretty good little puddle.

That manifold you had a pic of is from a 12 valve. I believe its a rv manifold. I have a school bus one on mine. Are these turbos water cooled? I want one on mine. Also what foot is it? Is it t4?
no... the electronics housing is.. but its not on mine because it isnt there.. the turbo itself is NOT water cooled...
its not exactly a t4 but close... beats me... heated it all nice and red with the rosebud and threw some beads down on there...
 

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superdutycummins, do you have any pics of your swap? if you do ill pm you my email id like to see it!
 

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as i sed before i heated it with a torch so it wouldnt crack when it cooled and mig welded it... if you stick weld it you can just use cast iron rods and get away without heating it...
and i can control mine.. just not electronically.. im an all mechanical kinda guy.. i wanna see and know how sheet works before i do anything... so my controller is a small outboard throttle mounted on my console next to the seat.. you can close it off and launch with 15psi before you let off the clutch and as soon as you rap out in 1st gear in one motion you throw the shifter in 2nd and open the housing up and really sit back in the seat!!
 

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That might be what Ill do then. I really didnt want the electronics, because that would be the only thing that is electric. Thats the whole reason I went with a 12 valve, to get rid of the computers. I like your setup. I think it would work really well in my rig.
Ill probably mig weld my manifold too. My stick welder is on the fritz. I need a new one.
exactly:thumbsup:
im looking to sell/trade mine here soon pm me and lemme know something if your interested... im a mechanical kinda guy but i like to be original too... its great technology:thumbsup: but everyone and their grandma has it now so its time for something new this summer...:party018:
 
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