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I'm getting a P0046 code and it goes away eventually. Under a heavy load, going from zero to uphill, the turbo just doesn't kick in. Otherwise, it works fine. Additionally, the exhaust brake works great. The turbo works great as well as long as I don't have a heavy load and I'm not going uphill with that load. I replaced the turbo speed sensor hoping it would fix my issue but it didn't.

I hate to spend the money on replacing the turbo unless I have to. Reading through this forum, I'm guessing its the Actuator. However, I don't have a computer to calibrate it if I install. I need the truck so I don't really want to take the time on removing the Actuator to see if there is carbon buildup and the vanes are moving.

With the P0046 code and my driving experience, do you think it is just the Actuator or is there another part I should replace? Thoughts?

2014 RAM 6.7 3500
 

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I'm getting a P0046 code and it goes away eventually. Under a heavy load, going from zero to uphill, the turbo just doesn't kick in. Otherwise, it works fine. Additionally, the exhaust brake works great. The turbo works great as well as long as I don't have a heavy load and I'm not going uphill with that load. I replaced the turbo speed sensor hoping it would fix my issue but it didn't.

I hate to spend the money on replacing the turbo unless I have to. Reading through this forum, I'm guessing its the Actuator. However, I don't have a computer to calibrate it if I install. I need the truck so I don't really want to take the time on removing the Actuator to see if there is carbon buildup and the vanes are moving.

With the P0046 code and my driving experience, do you think it is just the Actuator or is there another part I should replace? Thoughts?

2014 RAM 6.7 3500
I had the same problem with my 2014 2500. I went with the City Diesel Actuator that doesn’t require calibration. It is a plug and play actuator. A bit expensive but worth it.
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I had the same problem with my 2014 2500. I went with the City Diesel Actuator that doesn’t require calibration. It is a plug and play actuator. A bit expensive but worth it.
How did you know it was the Actuator on your 2500? Did you just take the chance and replaced it. Thanks for the link and suggestion.
 

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The codes I received were P003A and P00AF. After looking them up and receiving advice on this forum I narrowed it down to the actuator. If you do decide to replace the actuator be sure that the vanes in the turbo move freely without any resistance otherwise the actuator won’t work and you’ll have to replace the turbo.
 

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I'm getting a P0046 code and it goes away eventually. Under a heavy load, going from zero to uphill, the turbo just doesn't kick in. Otherwise, it works fine. Additionally, the exhaust brake works great. The turbo works great as well as long as I don't have a heavy load and I'm not going uphill with that load. I replaced the turbo speed sensor hoping it would fix my issue but it didn't.

I hate to spend the money on replacing the turbo unless I have to. Reading through this forum, I'm guessing its the Actuator. However, I don't have a computer to calibrate it if I install. I need the truck so I don't really want to take the time on removing the Actuator to see if there is carbon buildup and the vanes are moving.

With the P0046 code and my driving experience, do you think it is just the Actuator or is there another part I should replace? Thoughts?

2014 RAM 6.7 3500
It's possible it is the actuator, possible the vanes are sticking and the actuator hasn't burned out yet. It is unusual that this would be the only code if the actuator was bad though.

I know you don't want to, but you need to pull the actuator and check the free travel of the vanes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm sorry, I forgot to list all of the codes. Along with the P0046, I have P026A, P003A, P07E8, P00AF. Any additional help with these codes are appreciated.
 

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I'm sorry, I forgot to list all of the codes. Along with the P0046, I have P026A, P003A, P07E8, P00AF. Any additional help with these codes are appreciated.
Yeah, the way you had posted was like the P0046 was all there was, you have to have all the codes to get a good diagnosis, partial info doesn't cut it.

Pretty much assuredly the actuator is bad, you still won't know if the vanes are sticking/dragging until you take it apart and check it. Maybe get away with just an actuator, may need the turbo too.
 

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Same thing happened to my 14’ 3500 @42k miles. I just deleted it. Perfect opportunity to get rid of the problematic parts. BD screamer turbo comes pre calibrated and is a new actuator, not a refurbished one.


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Same thing happened to my 14’ 3500 @42k miles. I just deleted it. Perfect opportunity to get rid of the problematic parts. BD screamer turbo comes pre calibrated and is a new actuator, not a refurbished one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Deleted parts don't have anything to do with the bad turbo actuator.
 

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I have the same codes coming up. They only come on when the temps get high. Actuator is going. Turbo still works until actuator heats up. I’ve been trouble shooting the reasoning behind this. Clean your “EGR” valve and cooler. Worst thing ever. It’s lead to more issues. Coolant leaking mystery solved. Blowing out of expansion tank. Why? Either Crack in the cooler letting exhaust gases into cooling system, or head gasket. It started with the codes you are saying you have. It will slowing start happening. Don’t let it go!
 

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I unplugged my actuator back in October because I was getting the same codes. Works like a non VGT turbo right now with a CEL on. I need to remove the unit and see if it’s free moving but I’ll be calling City Diesel her soon


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I have the same codes coming up. They only come on when the temps get high. Actuator is going. Turbo still works until actuator heats up. I’ve been trouble shooting the reasoning behind this. Clean your “EGR” valve and cooler.
Great suggestion. It looks like cleaning the ERG valve is much easier than the cooler. I have 80,700 miles on this truck. Do you think its that necessary to clean the cooler? Am I understanding you right, by cleaning the ERG Valve and Cooler, this solved your truck issues. Were you having a lack in power like the turbo was not kicking on and this cleaning solved it? How do you know the "Actuator is going"? Thanks for the help. I'd like to see this solve it so I don't have to replace the Actuator.
 

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What does works like a non VGT with CEL on mean? Sorry for the dumb question. Does the turbo always operate? Thanks.
Means the VGT vanes in the turbo are stuck in a fixed position so it works like a non-VGT turbo.
This is fine temporarily, IF the vanes are stuck in a position that still allows it to make boost.
The vanes could stick in a position that doesn't allow it to make boost, so power would be low, or the vanes could be stuck in a position that the exhaust brake would be active all the time.
And, of course, this would mean the check engine light would be constantly on.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I had the same problem with my 2014 2500. I went with the City Diesel Actuator that doesn’t require calibration. It is a plug and play actuator. A bit expensive but worth it.
Mpsylvia41, I purchased an Actuator from City Diesel. Thank you for the recommendation. They responded to my emails fast and had excellent instructions. I now have it installed and will report back if the actuator replacement solved my problem. The issue was intermittent so it might take a while before I'm confident this solved it. However, I'll have my camper loaded up pulling a Jeep in about a week through the Colorado Mountains. This should be a good test.
 

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Your very welcome. It’s a solid actuator. You shouldn’t have any problems with it unless the vanes in your turbo don’t move freely. Best wishes and good luck.
 

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Great suggestion. It looks like cleaning the ERG valve is much easier than the cooler. I have 80,700 miles on this truck. Do you think its that necessary to clean the cooler? Am I understanding you right, by cleaning the ERG Valve and Cooler, this solved your truck issues. Were you having a lack in power like the turbo was not kicking on and this cleaning solved it? How do you know the "Actuator is going"? Thanks for the help. I'd like to see this solve it so I don't have to replace the Actuator.
By cleaning the EGR system . I can tell that the truck can breath better. The soot build up in the cooler was pretty thick, which I think led to back pressure build up causing a crack in the cooler , or blowing the head gasket. Not sure if the Actuator can cause coolant blow out? I’ve got other issues at the moment. Ever since the original water pump took a dump ” Concentric with no weep” 100 miles after my warranty was up. Good thing it was a recall. I’ve had nothing but problems. still have the coolant blowing out of the tank. I’m over heating. Engine light comes on and off constantly. I loose the turbo and exhaust break when it gets too hot. Trying to find out if I lye in the realm of the lemon law. All I know is that you need to clean the whole EGR system every 67000. I’m going to do it more often. If I can get everything fixed. Pain in the A$$$$
 
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