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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I have a 2014 2500 and took it in for smog today. Everything passed except the emissions readiness. This truck is bone stock other than the tuner. I have the calibrated power tunes using the MM3. Does this mean their tunes simply disable these sensors? If so, wouldn't reverting back to the stock tune function as normal? I know it was a big secret for a long time on how they did it. Before leaving, I changed back to the stock tune and disconnected the tuner from the obd just incase. I was bummed and shocked it didn't pass. Anyone have any ideas on how to get these cod
es complete? I'm using a Bluetooth scanner to keep an eye on it. Everything runs great with no codes. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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Mike @ Dude's Diesel Performance
2013 Ram 2500 CCLB - A long list of extras
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How many miles did you drive it after reverting to stock? My thought is if there was residual soot then it could cause failure. My understanding is what you did reverting back to stock is the correct procedure that should have worked. Maybe put some miles on it and let the exhaust system "clean" itself out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I only drove it 15-20 miles or so after. I'll check it again tomorrow after driving it more.
 

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2011 Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 68RFE 4 inch lift
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It needs a certain amount of cold starts along with a regen or 2. Drive it but don’t go over 50mph. Keep your code reader plugged into the obd2 port and have it on I/M Readiness. When you only have 2 monitors that are not complete, you’re good for Cali smog.
 

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Yep,, give it a few days and a few hundred miles. You are allowed 2 monitors not complete in calif. Stay under 70 mph. Drive a few miles at 50 & 60 mph. I had this issue due to a failed NOX sensor and next year I'll get my smog check as soon as I get the renewal.
 

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It takes me about 1-2 weeks of driving it before mine resets before emissions mines a 09 but I would imagine its the same

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is that Torque Pro or what app shows you those values?
 

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Is your tuner setup to clear DTC's at startup ? Some older stuff did that.
 

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AFAIK CA will let you have two not ready monitors. It’s should set all but the last two fairly quickly


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2017 Ram 2500 Megacab, Rambox, Factory air suspension, modified by adding factory fifth wheel prep
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While I do not know the exact process with a Ram truck I know on many vehicles you have to complete two “drive cycles” after any codes have been cleared or if the battery is disconnected in order for the monitors to be “ready” or green

Each drive cycle has certain requirements (they can be referred to as setting a flag) such as so many seconds at idle then so many seconds at a minimum rpm and a maximum rpm constant. After one entire drive cycle is completed the engine needs to be turned off and keyed off. Then the entire process has to be completed again for a second cycle. After two complete cycles the monitors will all show as ready. If you miss one of the criteria in then cycle then it will not complete any of them. So in other words if you don’t set one flag of the six or so needed then the cycle is not completed and you have to do it all over again to complete the cycle.

I googled and found this for a 2014 Ram but have no idea if accurate:

Chrysler Drive Cycle Information

All Monitor Drive Trace
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
– MIL must be off
– Cold start (Note: cold start temperature is undefined)
Driving Procedure
1) Warm engine up for five minutes (must reach closed loop)
2) Drive (with steady throttle) at a speed between 40 and 60 mph for 8 minutes.
3) Stop and idle for 3 minutes.
4) Drive (with steady throttle) at a speed above 20 mph for 2 minutes.
5) Turn key off, leave off for ten minutes (to run O2 sensor heater monitor).
Note: Due to the limited preconditions provided with this drive trace, NCVECS recommends using the monitor
specific drive traces for Chrysler vehicles.

If I was you I would do some more searching and see if you can find some consistency in what they say. Also, if you have a Chrysler specific testing tool it might even tell you during the drive cycle if you have hit any of the flags otherwise you will not know until you guess that you have completed two complete cycles because after the second is complete then all the sensors show green or ready but they all do it at one time.

People always say just drive it for a few days at different speeds and the monitors will be green but there is a very specific process you have to hit and just driving the truck normally over a few days may not set all the flags and thus not complete a cycle. For instance, you may not idle for 3 minutes in one cycle so the entire cycle needs to be completed again next time.

The good news is with your scan tool you will know when you are all set and won’t end up wasting a trip for a smog test again.

Good luck.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
While I do not know the exact process with a Ram truck I know on many vehicles you have to complete two “drive cycles” after any codes have been cleared or if the battery is disconnected in order for the monitors to be “ready” or green

Each drive cycle has certain requirements (they can be referred to as setting a flag) such as so many seconds at idle then so many seconds at a minimum rpm and a maximum rpm constant. After one entire drive cycle is completed the engine needs to be turned off and keyed off. Then the entire process has to be completed again for a second cycle. After two complete cycles the monitors will all show as ready. If you miss one of the criteria in then cycle then it will not complete any of them. So in other words if you don’t set one flag of the six or so needed then the cycle is not completed and you have to do it all over again to complete the cycle.

I googled and found this for a 2014 Ram but have no idea if accurate:

Chrysler Drive Cycle Information

All Monitor Drive Trace
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
– MIL must be off
– Cold start (Note: cold start temperature is undefined)
Driving Procedure
1) Warm engine up for five minutes (must reach closed loop)
2) Drive (with steady throttle) at a speed between 40 and 60 mph for 8 minutes.
3) Stop and idle for 3 minutes.
4) Drive (with steady throttle) at a speed above 20 mph for 2 minutes.
5) Turn key off, leave off for ten minutes (to run O2 sensor heater monitor).
Note: Due to the limited preconditions provided with this drive trace, NCVECS recommends using the monitor
specific drive traces for Chrysler vehicles.

If I was you I would do some more searching and see if you can find some consistency in what they say. Also, if you have a Chrysler specific testing tool it might even tell you during the drive cycle if you have hit any of the flags otherwise you will not know until you guess that you have completed two complete cycles because after the second is complete then all the sensors show green or ready but they all do it at one time.

People always say just drive it for a few days at different speeds and the monitors will be green but there is a very specific process you have to hit and just driving the truck normally over a few days may not set all the flags and thus not complete a cycle. For instance, you may not idle for 3 minutes in one cycle so the entire cycle needs to be completed again next time.

The good news is with your scan tool you will know when you are all set and won’t end up wasting a trip for a smog test again.

Good luck.


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Thanks for all the information dsol. I will continue searching. My commute to work is only 10 miles. Some claim having to drive 1500 miles plus to reset. I hope thats not the case for me. That will take some time if so.
 

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I want to say I've seen many times that the sensors won't come ready till you've put on 100 miles. It's definitely not 1500 miles tho, I cant imagine any emissions compliance allowing 1500 miles without sensors fine tuning the emmisions. Does Calibratedpower claim you can pass a smog test with their tunes. I'm running them too.
 

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Ever year I have to go back to stock and perform the drive cycles to set the monitors. In my State of MA I can only have one not ready. CA as I understand it is 2. The difference between all but 2 and all but 1 is massive. All but 2 should be able to set in a few drive cycles. If you need the last 1 or 2 that is where it can take a long time. For me it’s about 300-500 miles of back roads driving. You need at least 2 to 3 ACTIVE regens. Not passive ones that you get on the highway drives.

I have been doing this for 10 years each and ever year so I have the procedure pretty down pat



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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hey guys I know it's been a while but I wanted to provide an update to everyone. I was never able to pass S**g. Hundreds of dollars wasted due to repeat s**g checks. I ended up driving almost 1,000 miles and the last few readiness codes never reset. Spoke to calibrated numerous times but never could get it right. They kept saying the same thing drive it, turn it off after 5 minutes etc. For anyone that has their tunes have you experienced any issues with the monitors incomplete and not passing? It leads me to believe they shut down certain monitors. This was really frustrating because this is the reason I went with calibrated and didn't delete my truck. I figured I can return to the stock tune when needed with no issues. I had even thought about buying a new ECM and flashing it with my factory stock tune from the dealer, not flashed with anything from calibrated. anyone has a similar experience please share. Wondering if I should keep this truck or trade it in and be done with it. I don't want to deal with this every two years.
 

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Hey guys I know it's been a while but I wanted to provide an update to everyone. I was never able to pass S**g. Hundreds of dollars wasted due to repeat s**g checks. I ended up driving almost 1,000 miles and the last few readiness codes never reset. Spoke to calibrated numerous times but never could get it right. They kept saying the same thing drive it, turn it off after 5 minutes etc. For anyone that has their tunes have you experienced any issues with the monitors incomplete and not passing? It leads me to believe they shut down certain monitors. This was really frustrating because this is the reason I went with calibrated and didn't delete my truck. I figured I can return to the stock tune when needed with no issues. I had even thought about buying a new ECM and flashing it with my factory stock tune from the dealer, not flashed with anything from calibrated. anyone has a similar experience please share. Wondering if I should keep this truck or trade it in and be done with it. I don't want to deal with this every two years.
Are you still having this issue? I just ordered there tunes last week with EZ link. I also live in CA. Any luck?
 
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With no DTC's and no hardware issues with the truck's engine and emission system, the "stock" tune that Calibrated Tuning provided is suspect.

Did you ever take the truck to the RAM dealer to get a confirmed stock ECM program loaded?

That would eliminate the Calibrated stock tune and the MM3 as variables.
 
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Which of the readiness codes are still incomplete? There are procedures that help move some of them to complete. I remember one being drive on the highway for 13 min pull off the road and idle for 5. Another requires two regen cycles to clear in the same driving cycle. I had to clear 4 in one day a few months ago before passing smog.
 

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2011 Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 68RFE 4 inch lift
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With my 11’, it usually takes 300 miles or so to complete all 11 monitors and that includes so many key cycles hot/cold cycles.
 
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