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well she just hit the 260,000 mark wondering what should be checked and if i send it into a shop for a tune up what should i ask for? valve adjustment pop test ????
 

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Pop test/ calibration would be a good idea. I need to get mine pop-tested desperately...

Valves should be done every 25,000 miles or so. We have the easiest valve job around.


I definitely wouldn't take it into a shop and ask for a tune-up. For most shops, a "tune-up" consists of popping the hood, looking at the engine and saying "ummm, that look's good"... On a first gen Diesel especially, I can't think of anything to do beyond what you mentioned.

Just keep your fluids current.
 

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B Series Valve Adjustment

Good write up here. One thing you don't have to do is find the TDC using the pin. turn the altenator backwards, just watch the valves and see when the # 1 is closed all the way then set the valves as shown. Then turn the crank 360 degrees for the next setting and watch the valves and finish up. .010 for intake and .020 for exhaust.

Good luck!
 
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When they say,
"If no barring tool is available, the crankshaft may be turned with a 22 mm socket on the alternator pulley bolt."

What do they mean? my alternator pulley nut is 1/2 inch not 22mm. I know I will strip the alternator pulley nut if I try to turn it. What do I do?
 

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I see what they mean now. the 1/2 inch nut is on the 22 mm nut.
 

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On the passenger side of the engine adapter there is a hole with a 2 screw cover plate. It is around the 3:00 position looking from the front of the engine. Remove the cover and that is where the baring tool fits.

YA9565A, Engine Turning Tool, 3/8" Female Square Drive
 

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Hmm, screw dat jazz.

How far off is your cam timing if you do the valve adjustment after turning the engine backwards? It's going to retard your cam a degree or so, right? More of a benefit than a detractor?
 

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The B series is a gear drive setup very little slop in them. Turning the engine backwards isn't an issue on valve adjustments.

If you want to adjust them the slow way use the link above.

My self I just bring the second valve on the same cylinder to its deepest open point and then adjust the closed one. The closed valve will be on the camshaft base circle at this point. That is the point you want to adjust a valve at. This is an old trick drag racers use for running the valves between races. Its faster and you don't need a score card to remember which valves to adjust at what degree setting.
 

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How is that faster than putting #1 at TDC, doing half, then doing the other half at #6 TDC? Or is that method too inaccurate?

I've never understood the whole inner/ outer base circle thing...
 

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Eather method works. On my truck with a timing pin that will not move. Its just faster for me to revert to older methods. I can run the rack the old way just as fast as most people can doing the way the link says.
 

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Mine's 7/8".

Weird.
22mm and 7/8" are virtually the same size. 7/8" is actually like 22.2 mm or something like that but on a nut that size you'd not likely ever notice a difference.
 
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