Truck threw a few codes today...advice on what to do

P1223
Pedal Demand Sensor B Circuit High Input


OBDII P OBD Trouble Codes –

Possibly battery problem?(im not really sure just guessing with all the sensor problems) Load test them separately.

Check battery connections, especially grounds and cross over cable. Sounds like a power issue.

Thanks for the info. I did notice some corrosion on my right side battery. I may have factory batteries as well.

My personal rule of thumb is if something electrical is acting up I test the batteries. If bad I replace.

Load test and replace if required. Do both if doing one. I don't believe batteries are your problem. But let me tell you a bad battery or a ground that isn't perfect can cause all sorts of trouble. Very important to clean the ground beside the drivers side battery. Hit it with emery cloth or whatever. Make it perfect. Make all connections perfect. Make sure that connection is not used for aftermarket acc. Grounds aswell.


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Jim 5150 said:

P1223
Pedal Demand Sensor B Circuit High Input

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Not on a 06 it isn't. Since the op has a smarty he has probably got the newest ECU code that includes the fuel system diagnositcs. P1223 is Leak detected based on quantity balance. The main cause list in the TSB is excessive injector return.

@Fodie13 you can do a search about WTS light while driving. Tons of threads about the issue.

0513 says its an invalid skim key code. From my readings and experience, once I changed the key fob battery its been gone. My factory batteries caused all kinds of havoc. My mechanic wanted to replace the ecm for intermittent cutouts causeing the truck to fall on its face going down the highway. A dirty ground and new batts cleared it all up.

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lpennock said:

Not on a 06 it isn't. Since the op has a smarty he has probably got the newest ECU code that includes the fuel system diagnositcs. P1223 is Leak detected based on quantity balance. The main cause list in the TSB is excessive injector return.

@Fodie13 you can do a search about WTS light while driving. Tons of threads about the issue.

Click to expand...

That was the only code I could find for that #. Thanks for giving him the correct info.

I'm going to get the batteries load tested tomorrow. They'll both be getting replaced if one is bad.

lpennock I agree with the P1223 and the WTS. I've done a bunch of reading on it as well as posting a thread of my own a while back.

After clearing all 4 codes the other night and cleaning the terminals I got the P1223 again on my ~20 mile test drive. Today I got the P0148 with a solid CEL.

I intend on getting the truck into my local diesel shop to have a leak off test done and am already sourcing injectors.

I have an additional question now. If I replace the injectors, should I stay with stock or go up? My intentions are to install an AirDog some time and an intake horn but that's about it.

I would stay with original size injectors. They will support upwards of 600hp

Got the batteries load tested. Left one checks out as good with a full charge. Right one was at 62% and the tester wouldn't start the load test. This was after a ~100 mile trip. The charging system checked out as well when the tester was connected to the left battery. I think the right one is about kaput and will be replacing both.

Now on to the battery selection. Since I was at Autozone, I priced out what they had to offer. The Duralast Gold seems like the best for the money. More CCA's, better warranty. Anybody have any feedback on these? Have a better suggestion?

Fodie13 said:

Got the batteries load tested. Left one checks out as good with a full charge. Right one was at 62% and the tester wouldn't start the load test. This was after a ~100 mile trip. The charging system checked out as well when the tester was connected to the left battery. I think the right one is about kaput and will be replacing both.

Now on to the battery selection. Since I was at Autozone, I priced out what they had to offer. The Duralast Gold seems like the best for the money. More CCA's, better warranty. Anybody have any feedback on these? Have a better suggestion?

Click to expand...

Cheaper the better. It seems all batteries suck nowadays.
That's my advice.



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Good news on Duralast Golds is they have a good warranty. Bad news you will probably need to use it. At least that has been my experience in AZ with them.

So I put a set of Duralast Gold batteries in the other day. $140 ea. (+$15/ core which I got back) Truck cranks well when cold and I haven't been getting any codes other than the P1223 which is injector related and I'll be fixing that shortly. I think the batteries solved my issues prompting this thread.

One other weird thing that was happening was my washer fluid low lamp was randomly lighting. It was low-ish when it started but not below the sensor in the tank. I filled it and still got the lamp at random intervals. Haven't gotten it since the new batteries...yet.

I also was told that Costco has batteries for ~$95 ea. (+$5/ core), 850 CCA, don't know if they are lead-acid or AGM (probably lead-acid at that price), 3 year full replacement warranty with pro-rated replacement "after that" (the guy on the phone didn't specify how long). I don't know who makes the batteries they sell.

Some 1 just posted a consumer report that said the costco (kirkland) batteries were highly recommended.