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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the storyline up to now.

CEL came on while headed home. Shut off truck in driveway and hooked up scanner to get codes. No communication between scanner and truck. Tried the key 3 times for codes and still nothing. Truck cranked but wouldn't start.

Figuring my ECM was out - again, I replaced it but no difference.

Finally found 3 sets of wires bad. Wires to crankshaft sensor and vistronic fan were both void of insulation just back of the plugs on the engine side. All wires for both plugs, at a glance, looked like a single 8ga wire with no insulation. Also found wires going to a/c sensor (high side I think) also had been rubbing. Although the insulation was rubbed to the point the wires would short out, these were at least still intact. All wires were spliced/repaired.

Throughout all this, I've had several DTCs and C Codes. I won't list them here as I no longer have DTCs and the only C Codes are unlikely unrelated to my problem. This was all on another thread where I thought my ECM was shot. See the other thread if you like.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/2478179-my-computer-shot-again-new-post.html

Right now, I'm sitting with a truck that will start but only runs for a second or two and shuts down. I don't know if it's been this way from the start but I noticed something particular today. With the key off and going directly to start, the truck will start and die. If I try to start it again (going directly from RUN to Start) the truck will only crank. No start. I have to turn the key OFF and back to start in order to get it to actually start. In addition, if I go from off to on, wait a few seconds before turning to start, I only get crank. It appears any delay going from off to start will keep it from starting.

So there I am. No trouble codes but big trouble. No truck means no work. If I can't find what's wrong with my truck soon - really soon - I'm going to be forced to find a shop to take it to. Diesel mechanics are real hard to find around me. I'm certain this is an electrical problem but I can't find any more frayed/worn wires. Fuses all check out.
 

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35 bucks. I'll take that gamble and give it a try this morning.
I was thinking checking the power at the three pins to ECM at ECM connector while flipping the ignition switch to different positions.
That would verify the condition of the ignition switch without gambling.:wink2:

Forget about the checking part.
The power to ECM was from a fusible link, not from ignition switch.
 

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10sc,
you are probably stuck with taking it to a dealer shop that has a DBIII Mopar Ram Diesel scan tool package. They can monitor ECU power up sequence. They may have to dump the latest ECU firmware into your unit to get it to operate correctly.
Pick a shop that works on lots of Ram Cummins.
 

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Do you have a second set of keys? Try it and see if you get the same problem.
You could also try locking and unlocking the doors a couple of times with the fob while your in the truck with the doors closed, see if starts and runs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do you have a second set of keys? Try it and see if you get the same problem.
You could also try locking and unlocking the doors a couple of times with the fob while your in the truck with the doors closed, see if starts and runs.
I'll try the second key when the wife gets home but I don't see that making a difference. I'm 99.85% certain my keys aren't chipped. I tried the fob but no good.

Replaced the ignition switch and no help there either. However, it did show signs of being hot sometime. The plug wasn't burned but slightly discolored so I figure it was going to go before long. Watching videos on YouTube on replacing the switch, several of them were replacing them because they had burned out the connection to the a/c blower fan.

I may wind up going to the stealership. I hate to though. I just need it diagnosed so I can do the work myself. I'm good at getting the job done - once I know what the job is. Diagnosing is my weakness.
 
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This sounds like a SKIM key issue, and no communication to the ECM.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
This sounds like a SKIM key issue, and no communication to the ECM.
If so, shouldn't I have gotten a P0633? I have no trouble codes and I don't believe my keys are chipped. Is there some why I can verify if I have chipped keys or not?

According to Northlandlocksmith.com, keys with a black head have no chips. Both of my keys are black.
 

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it sounds like skim issue to me also. IF it is it won't always throw a code. Look at the dash when you turn the key on and find the security light. Then try to start it like you mentioned and see if it flashes. I think it will always flash IF that's shutting I off. 3 seconds I think. My 04.5 was a foreign truck and had a black plastic molded to the key but small like an old gm key or toyota key. 1/8 inch thick. No skim. I did however deal with a few skim issue trucks that I was able to fix by re-programming the ECM with a smarty recovery file.
 

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There were also some fuel pumps that wouldn't flow through when they were dead. Turn the key to on and listen to the fuel pump. Pop the top and watch a mess if you can't here it.
 

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Have absolutely no experience with Dodge wiring.
That sounds like a timer issue, do these have any sort of low fuel or oil pressure sensors?
Going from Off to Start allows it to start before the timer kicks out, in Run it is already running the timer down before trying to start
Just my WAG
Cheers Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Fuel pump is running and has good pressure.

I've never seen a security light on my dash. Everything I've ever seen light up on the cluster is easily identified such as CEL, AB, seatbelt, door ajar, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I found a performance shop and explained all that I've found and done. They were certain there is still a wire shorting out to a sensor/module. They claim to have all the hookups to fully diagnose anything electronic on the truck. It's there now so we'll see what they find.
 

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Let us know what is found.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
This waiting is KILLING me. Called a little bit ago. They're just pulling my truck in the bay. Says they should know something later this afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well you called it. Shop said the SKIM is toast. Evidently my keys are chipped. He's order the part from the stealership and I should get my truck back sometime Friday. Luckily, he said he can program the new SKIM so although I wound up getting the part there, I don't have to pay their prices for programming. smh
 
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