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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got these codes after I received a CEL on the truck. Figured running it with tuner off caused it, but the bottom one (top one I have already had looked at and know about) keeps coming back. Now I've already put nearly $2-3k into this truck since I got it in September (some out of pocket some dealer paid) and put off the straight pipe and headstuds because of this issue. My truck is a 2008 with 59300 miles on it roughly. I knew about the alternator issue back in November but decided to do myself because of how much stealership wanted and never got to it, and now I got a remote start and its made me discover that the alternator is offically shot and cannot sufficiently charge the batteries. (Came out to a dead truck yesterday after work, called AAA and they put a charger on my Aux battery and discovered the voltage was fluctuating wildly (12-14 volts)) Also my heat decided to crap out yesterday could that be a result of my troubles? Any help would be appreciated. Also never buy a used plow truck!!!! You may wind up butt trucked like me.

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Have you had the batteries load tested?
Have you throw a voltmeter on the battery while it's running to see if the ALT is really charging/not working?
Checked/Cleaned all your connections, including your engine and chassis grounds?

I'd say if the Alternator hasn't been working since November you have gotten away with a lot of driving on the batteries alone and as power hungry as these trucks are I don't see 2 plus months of driving without some sort of charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you had the batteries load tested?
Have you throw a voltmeter on the battery while it's running to see if the ALT is really charging/not working?
Checked/Cleaned all your connections, including your engine and chassis grounds?

I'd say if the Alternator hasn't been working since November you have gotten away with a lot of driving on the batteries alone and as power hungry as these trucks are I don't see 2 plus months of driving without some sort of charge.
Well the towing company that AAA sent placed a charger on the AUX battery and it was running at the time and the voltage was fluctuating at that time. The alternator has been bad since then but not completely functional. It has died 4 times since last week leading to believe it was the remote start although the MIL and the incident yesterday changed my thoughts. Also my truck had a terminal replaced during one of many visits (nearly 10) to dealership. I have also had the dealership test my alternator/PCM and they claimed it to be the alternator no load test has been performed to my knowledge.

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Seems to me that if the dealer and the towing company both confirmed the alternator wasn't working, changing that out would be #1. But that's just my opinion.

These trucks do all sorts of funky things when they don't have enough power in the system. I had a bad ground that caused the same error cods you were getting above. Cleaned, Dielectric greased everything, cleared codes and haven't had a problem in over a year.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Seems to me that if the dealer and the towing company both confirmed the alternator wasn't working, changing that out would be #1. But that's just my opinion.

These trucks do all sorts of funky things when they don't have enough power in the system. I had a bad ground that caused the same error cods you were getting above. Cleaned, Dielectric greased everything, cleared codes and haven't had a problem in over a year.
I agree but I don't want to piss away another $400

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No offense but replacing a VERY needed part isn't pissing away money. My bet is if the starter went out you would change it tomorrow.....just my $0.02
 

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The alternator is an easy test. AutoZone/O'reilly should be able to test it for you regardless of if you buy it from them or not.


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I don't know if it has anything to do with your alternator or batteries ,but the grid heaters on these trucks pull a lot of juice when you first start them in cold weather. The voltage on mine fluctuates very noticeably as the grid heater cycles for the first minute or so after a cold start 10-14v this is accompanied by momentary dimming of the headlights. According to the owners manual this is normal.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't know if it has anything to do with your alternator or batteries ,but the grid heaters on these trucks pull a lot of juice when you first start them in cold weather. The voltage on mine fluctuates very noticeably as the grid heater cycles for the first minute or so after a cold start 10-14v this is accompanied by momentary dimming of the headlights. According to the owners manual this is normal.
Could be forgot about that in the heat of the moment

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Grid heater kicking on and off will cause varied voltage readings, stock alternator (136 amp) is not sufficient to keep up with this demand. During this time truck is running off the batteries, which have already been pulled down by grid heater and starting the truck. Would load test each battery seperatly and clean all main power connections, battery terminals and engine/body grounds. If all tests out alright, then remove alternator and have tested. But in any case if its already at the dealer see what they say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Grid heater kicking on and off will cause varied voltage readings, stock alternator (136 amp) is not sufficient to keep up with this demand. During this time truck is running off the batteries, which have already been pulled down by grid heater and starting the truck. Would load test each battery seperatly and clean all main power connections, battery terminals and engine/body grounds. If all tests out alright, then remove alternator and have tested. But in any case if its already at the dealer see what they say.
Dealer said alternator plus my H&S Mini Maxx is causing my problem gotta hook up Mini Maxx to battery in spring right now its off OBD-II port

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Well the towing company that AAA sent placed a charger on the AUX battery and ...
Just a note on the batteries - you don't have an AUX battery. Both batteries are equal in that they are wired in parallel. They share the load and the charging current.
 
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The late replacement of the alternator coupled with repeated complete discharge cycle of the cell has tomb stoned the batteries. Take the batteries to be tested, have them charged and hope for the best. More than likely the batteries will need to be replaced but it's worth a shot. Buy quality batteries and the hemorrhaging of cash should subside momentarily.

Chrome might not get YOU home but a functional charging system will....

LOL...... Best of luck.
 
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