[fishernut]

We have a 97 2500 auto, we rarely plug in the block heater on these cold nights and it starts up easily enough but the transmission is a real slug until the fluid warms up a little. We can idle it in neutral to pump trans fluid during warm up but I'm wondering if there is a manufacturer making in-line transmission fluid heaters, one that would circulate the fluid through the entire system.

 

[RPegram]

Idling in neutral for a minute or so is pumping fluid through the converter. The stock valve body does not oil converter in park. If you don't idle in neutral for a little, then when you drop the gear shifter in drive and try to move, the truck doesn't want to and you have to give it a little more throttle. You have an antidrain back valve located in the flexible cooler line under the turbo. It is highly recommended to delete this valve. Yours has started failing and allowing fluid to drain out of converter. They can stick completely and block fluid from flowing through cooler and cause severe transmission damage. Because the trans fluid is so thin anyway (unlike engine oil), colds temps don't normally cause a problem unless it is very cold. If you plug in the block heater, that will heat engine coolant and when you start the truck, the trans cooler under turbo will actually act as a trans oil heater and heat the oil up some. So, to sum it up, what you are experiencing is not related to cold fluid, but most likely a converter with no oil at startup. Just remember, place in neutral, wait just a little, then drop in "D" and take off.

 

[Algae Eater]

And you can buy a Goerend transmission valve-body. Their transmissions circulate fluid in Park too. I'm sure some of the other valve body mfg's do this too.

Sounds like RPegram thinks the drainback valve under turbo is at fault.
That may be the case, but I figured I'd mention the valve body.

 

[RPegram]

Most all the aftermarket valve bodies and probably a lot of the DIY kits will allow converter oiling in park. The antidrain back valve is a common problem on these trucks. Many trans rebuilders will go ahead and delete them and just tell the owner to let it idle briefly in neutral before going to Drive. Some of the chain stores (one starts Aamc), will replace the valve and all steel lines with later year lines and fittings to do away with the "high quality" plastic quick disconnects Dodge went with for a few years. Many valves have also caused trans failure. If you install a performance trans, the builder will want you to verify oil cooler flow in the return line at trans to confirm this valve has not stuck and prevent oil flow. They know this trans will have a very short life is flow is not what it should be.

 

[Algae Eater]

Would having a trans temp gauge help diagnose this if the anti-drainback valve (let's call it the ADV) went bad in the future? Or will you know by the tranny feeling sluggish upon first movement of the day (putting in D when it's cold)?

I'm just wondering if the failures that have resulted from a faulty ADV would be accompanied by high trans fluid temps due to lack of fluid causing heat.

 

[RPegram]

If the valve just severely slowed fluid flow, then a gauge plumbed into the hot line would read a very high reading, but if the valve completely stopped flow, then of course the gauge wouldn't read the high temp due to fluid not flowing past it. When the fluid flow is disrupted, then damage occurs from excessive heat. The stock converter can develop a lot of heat very quickly. Mine developed heat so quickly that I started popping it in neutral when sitting at a red light. After sitting at 2-3 consecutive red lights, I could see temps in excess of 220*. Until you install a temp gauge, people don't realize how quickly that temp coming off converter can rise. Now, with the new converter, I haven't seen temps over 180* at red lights. This new converter just doesn't put out the heat. One thing I did notice after deleting the ADV was that after getting back up to speed and converter locked (especially when towing travel trailer), temp would drop down very quickly. Even before deleting the ADV, temps would drop, but just not as quickly. I've also deleted all the plastic quick disconnects that Dodge so nicely installed for our convenience. Those can fail and dump enough fluid out so quick you can also do damage to trans.

 

[Will36]

just curious are you guys putting your temp sensors in the pan or somewhere else inline. Cause I have a stock rebuild trans and i'm assuming converter in my truck but I never see temps get very high. Most I've seen is a little less than 180 after a couple hours of plowing. Or about 150 while towing a 28foot enclosed trailer.

 

[RPegram]

I plumbed by sender into the hot line coming off trans. This way I monitor the hottest oil temps in trans. The converter can generate a lot of heat very quickly.

 

[fishernut]

I was just researching Georend valve bodies and it looks like it's about 670 bucks. What other advantages are there with this unit besides pumping fluid in park, that the original doesn't do? The trans does have a BD TC and BD pressure lock, whether that's considered "built" or not, I don't know.

I saw a flexible hose in the vacinity of the turbo, I believe that it is the hot fluid line running from the trans. When I grabbed it, it seemed to turn very easily, it's not leaking but I expected a little more resistance. Am I looking at the right part?
RPegram: Would you happen to have a pics of the trans lines at the cooler near the turbo? Where exactly is the anti-drainback valve located?

Thanks.

 

[RPegram]

The Goerend valve body does what a lot of the others do. It will raise line pressure (very important when adding torque), allow fluid to flow to converter in park and few other secret things Dave won't give too many details about. From all the reading and research I've done on valve bodies, a lot of it comes down to who YOU trust and who is closest.

The flexible hose you saw below the turbo contains the check valve. It is located in one end of the hose in one of the steel fittings on it. It is basically a ball and spring. The spring has very little pressure on the ball so it will take very little oil flow to move it and allow fluid to flow to coolers. I don't have a picture of the hose on the truck, but I can take one of the hose and will try to post back before end of day. The hose will twist fairly easy since it is connected with those "high tech" and "so reliable" flimsy little plastic disconnects on one end and swivel fitting on other. For just a few dollars you can purchase a 3/8" FPT X 1/2" barb, 18" oil rated rubber hose (I went with "Push Loc" brand, but others will work) and 3 hose clamps for the rubber oil hose and delete this valve. Cut the end of the steel line going to trans, slip the rubber line over it, put on two hose clamps, remove the fitting screwed into the cooler below turbo (takes 1 1/16" socket IIRC), install new barb fitting, slide hose over that fitting with hose clamp, and boom, deleted the check valve and got rid of plastic quick connects at same time.

 

[RPegram]

Here is a pic of the line containing the Anti-drain valve.

 

[fishernut]

That looks like the one. Thanks for the pic. The bent portion of that steel line recently rubbed through against the oil pan where it bolts up to the block. A local shop offered to make a hydraulic line with compression fittings to do the repair. This entire piece could be omitted with the new hydraulic line in it's place, right?

 

[RPegram]

Down at the bottom of the pic is the nut that goes on a steel compression fitting that screwed into my trans temperatur sending unti tee I made up. I kept the tee in place and put a barbed fitting in both tee and cooler and replaced the above hose with rubber. The little valve in that line was quite a restriction in flow. Also, I took 1" long pieces of cheap water heater and sliced them long ways and slipped them over the stock steel cooler lines anywhere there was the possibility the line could make contact with anything. After putting the heater hose on, I took some large wire zip ties and put around them to hold the steel line and heater hose in place. My lines are solid in place and nowhere do they make contact with anything that can cause a hole.